The modifications will start now

[zackmac]

Hey everybody
I have stable money flow now with 2 jobs and it is time to work on my car...

First what I would like to do is start looking at headers, a new more powerful alternator and battery, suspension, brakes, and an intake.
Anybody who has done a part of this to their car tell me what you used and like/dislike about it.

As far as the intake, I have been having a hard time deciding between cold air and ram... I hear there is a problem with rain and puddles if you have the cold air intake due to the location of the filter, but you can purchase a bypass valve that will solve this? What do yall think about ram vs cold air? Thinking K&N either way, I had injen in my MSP but want to go in a new direction.

Any input at all is appreciated and will be read with care! Thanks for your generosity.

PS: I am thinking about a carbon fiber hood and blank grille (both black) for my red p5. I have black rims with a chrome outer circumference... where is the best place to shop for these parts? (And what would you do after you remove the badges on the back to fill in the 2 pin holes on each badge? thanks)

 

[Tamn]

As far as the intake, I have been having a hard time deciding between cold air and ram... I hear there is a problem with rain and puddles if you have the cold air intake due to the location of the filter, but you can purchase a bypass valve that will solve this? What do yall think about ram vs cold air? Thinking K&N either way, I had injen in my MSP but want to go in a new direction.

I have a K/n cold air, it is a FANTASTIC piece, total BS about water getting into it. K/N gives you a waterproof cover to slide over the end of your filter. (mine came with one, but you can buy them for not much if it doesnt) I live in Washington..land of the wet. Never had a problem and its been 4 years.

As for the holes from the badges...me personally...I would bondo them up and then use touch up paint, and get it blended nicely.

Goodluck

 

[azuelke]

Header: Cheap route, OBX or alike. Expensive: AWR
Intake: Go cold air. If you are weary about puddles the AEM bypass filter is what you want.
Badge holes: Fill them and repaint or find some plugs to fit and seal them.

 

[bigpturgeon]

I have an Injen CAI, I have never had any problems with it. I drove up the east cost and it was raining the entire time an not once did the car have any problems. You would literally have to submerge the intake in water for it to damage anything. Recently i bought a Injen Hydro Shield that slips over the filter to add that extra peace of mind and it works great at repelling the mist that is created when at highway speeds. I don't really see the point in the bypass valve unless you plan on driving in to small bodies of water. As far as what one is better well look at it this way, the ram air is right by the engine where as the cold air is below the engine getting fresh colder air, hot air robs power as air density is less than as if it were cold. I also have a OBX header just for kicks its done right by me, I have had it on for three years now and have had 0 problems with it. Good luck with yer car.

 

[tweety2300]

If you're a puddle driver don't get one

 

[bigpturgeon]

If you're a puddle driver don't get one

(iagree)

 

[P-Funk!]

Why the alt/bat increase - are you bumping up the stereo in a big way?

If it only seems a wee bit underpowered (for the accys now) then do a grounding kit.

All your other planned mods=more enjoyment

 

[zackmac]

Why the alt/bat increase - are you bumping up the stereo in a big way?

If it only seems a wee bit underpowered (for the accys now) then do a grounding kit.

All your other planned mods=more enjoyment

Actually yes, my car stalls if idling and bumping quite often especially if defrosters, wipers, and headlights are all running at the same time. I currently only have 2 12" Alpine type R's to a 1000w alpine amp, but my system continues to grow. I am sick of the dims and fades. I want HID's but am afraid to blow them with a surge like I have done with 3 pair in the last 2 months (regular bulbs)

Header: Cheap route, OBX or alike. Expensive: AWR
Intake: Go cold air. If you are weary about puddles the AEM bypass filter is what you want.
Badge holes: Fill them and repaint or find some plugs to fit and seal them.

Thank you for the header info! and I will be going cold air, no puddle driver here!

I have a K/n cold air, it is a FANTASTIC piece, total BS about water getting into it. K/N gives you a waterproof cover to slide over the end of your filter. (mine came with one, but you can buy them for not much if it doesnt) I live in Washington..land of the wet. Never had a problem and its been 4 years.

As for the holes from the badges...me personally...I would bondo them up and then use touch up paint, and get it blended nicely.

Goodluck

Excellent! Just the type of response I am looking for. I'm just about sold on the intake now!


EDIT:
Also looking for advice / reccomendations on the following

Cat-back exhaust vs full exhaust? What to get and what kind (brands)
Headers
Blow Off Valve
Suspension
Brakes
Carbon Fiber Grille (black with out an emblem)
Carbon Fiber hood (no Evo style, just a plain hood)
Nice Spark Plugs

 

[zackmac]

Just ordered the K&N Cold Air Intake, plan to have it installed by next weekend!

On a side note, I am looking for the evil M badge for the rear emblem in black or carbon fiber appearance... Are they for sale anywhere or should I just make my own? I just want to have a spare original in case anything goes wrong.

Also, I have almost decided on the cat-back exhaust I want. It is between magnaflow 15804 or 15752 models... I am not sure which is a better route to go and it is hard for me to find any reviews on them. I want a sound that is low, NON FART CANON OR RICEY, but a low deep tone that sounds rich when you step on it... any advice, should I not be looking into magnaflow? Thanks

 

[Installshield 2]

Exhaust wise....I've had a Racing Beat Cat-Back exhaust for about 8 years now. Looks and sounds brand new...Its a heavy stainless steel exhaust, so absolutely no whiny high pitched sounds of any kind. Actually, i could only tell it was on there when the windows were down at first. I later bought a true JDM Mazdaspeed 4-2-1 header from 'theMan' around 2006 iirc. Its the factory header for what was the Japanese equivalent of the MP3. After that was installed, definitely had more of an exhaust note...but still very acceptable in overall sound. The header is flawless also after all these years, but i doubt you'll find one used...and importers would dip you more than $1000 from a JDM dealership, i'd assume though that an AWR stainless header would result in the same sound.

that about rounds out the easiest bolt-ons there are. Cams and a few odd lighter components are still available, if you're interested...but keep in mind the age of the car, and consider just how hard you're really going to be driving it.

 

[MP5 Kyle]

thats to give you a look at what itll look like primered, but complete.

and theres the finished product..

I used bondo-glass(the one with short stranded fibreglass) and made sure it went into the holes and also went over the back side. once the holes were filled, i bondoed, sanded,, spot puttied, sanded, and primered grey(first picture), wet sanded and painted white(second picture).

 

[hat1018]

As far as brake upgrades go, I found a mazda6 wagon that was totaled and being parted out. I bought the calipers, brackets, pads and rotors for $120. I was pretty lucky the owner had just done the brakes about a month prior to the accident. Check Craigslist! Unless you just want to upgrade the pads, I have Hawk hps pads on my mazda3 and haven't had any issues. No squealing and little to no dust, hell for that matter not much wear either.

 

[Justin2129]

As far as brake upgrades go, I found a mazda6 wagon that was totaled and being parted out. I bought the calipers, brackets, pads and rotors for $120.

x2 on mazda 6 brakes. best bang for your buck

 

[zackmac]

Would it be smarter for me to get 4-2-1 headers before or after getting a cat-back exhaust?

edit: actually, would it be even smarter to just get a full exhaust?

My only requirements are that it passes emissions (CT), I don't want to have to switch out every time. And nothing ricey, just a nice deep tone.

 

[Ice88]

Exhaust wise....I've had a Racing Beat Cat-Back exhaust for about 8 years now. Looks and sounds brand new...Its a heavy stainless steel exhaust, so absolutely no whiny high pitched sounds of any kind. Actually, i could only tell it was on there when the windows were down at first. I later bought a true JDM Mazdaspeed 4-2-1 header from 'theMan' around 2006 iirc. Its the factory header for what was the Japanese equivalent of the MP3. After that was installed, definitely had more of an exhaust note...but still very acceptable in overall sound. The header is flawless also after all these years, but i doubt you'll find one used...and importers would dip you more than $1000 from a JDM dealership, i'd assume though that an AWR stainless header would result in the same sound.

that about rounds out the easiest bolt-ons there are. Cams and a few odd lighter components are still available, if you're interested...but keep in mind the age of the car, and consider just how hard you're really going to be driving it.

Back from the dead man. Good to see you posting Hows the engine going?

Would it be smarter for me to get 4-2-1 headers before or after getting a cat-back exhaust?

edit: actually, would it be even smarter to just get a full exhaust?

My only requirements are that it passes emissions (CT), I don't want to have to switch out every time. And nothing ricey, just a nice deep tone.

Depends on the header. Autoexe header doesn't match up with the stock points on a FS.

 

[Installshield 2]

ah hey man, yeah the engine is fine but not in the car. I ended up acquiring an 82 Porsche 928 a few years ago...just 40,000 miles on it...and thats been what i've been messing with any more. My built engine was never very streetable it seemed, and i don't have access anywhere near by to a good tuning/dyno shop. Doesn't mean i'm done with it, but its been back burnered while the car still runs great with the original engine. The biggest issue was tackling the standalone ECU, and how to keep the system capable of being swapped back to the original engine relatively easily....when i get a little more time this winter i may figure all that out haha.

sorry for the thread jack...

 

[Ice88]

Nice man. If memory serves that had a 4.7l V8, swap the euro bits over and you'd gain a fair bit of power

Would a nice car to drive

If you find the desire to impart any wisdom/knowledge check out my build

@OP

Just had a thought your unlikely to want to spend the 500 ish dollars AWR want as such at least look into the racing 626 header. Its better than the OBX

 

[zackmac]

k&n cold air coming in tomorrow hopefully i'll have time to put her in!

 

[joe944]

I like my awr motor mounts for what it is worth!

 

[steaksauce]

yea i have one rockford amp(p5002) powering some kickers a 1/2 farad cap an optima yellow top,and when i turn it up i get flickering and dimming. ive heard the millenia alternator bolts in with a pulley swap