The Great Skyactiv Resuscitation Project

ofted42

Member
:
'21 Mazda6
Word of warning, this is going to be a fairly long post. I had debated going through all this, but figured there might be some here that would be interested. Still not at the end of the journey either, more to come.

So, after 9 years of loving the hell out of my 2014 Mazda6 Touring with a manual, I went for a drive this last February and got an overheat warning on the way home. Got it home fine and started some investigation. Didn't take long to figure out that I had a real problem on my hands

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Obviously the oil ain't supposed to be in the radiator. Pulling the dipstick, I had a real nice looking milkshake going on. Not want to face the inevitable yet, I called a local shop that I always take our cars to and talked through the options. Obviously the prime culprit was probably a head gasket, but I did recall reading about some early year Skyactiv engines that had cracked cylinder heads. My options were thus:
  • Pull the cylinder head and see what we're dealing with. If a head gasket, replace it and see where we are.
    • If not a head gasket, I'd have to make the decision to continue with a rebuilt engine or call it a day and be out whatever the cost was to get that far.
  • Forego the cylinder head and start looking for a new/used engine. This would be the more expensive option and possibly unnecessary, but it avoids the extra expense of the head gasket if it turns out the engine is shot.
After talking it through with the guys at the shop, they started shopping around for a replacement engine for the car. With the amount of coolant that I was finding in the engine and vice versa, I had a suspicion that I was dealing with more than just a head gasket. Third option was to obviously scrap the car, but at 9 years old and only 130k miles on it I wasn't ready to give up on her yet.

Fast forward a week and I got a call back from Jeff at the auto shop. Turns out Skyactiv engines don't grow on trees, and he had been unable to locate a rebuilt one. He did talk to Mazda directly and was able to source a brand new one, but installed we were looking at over $10k. I love this car, but wasn't ready to commit to that. A used engine was another option, but while those can be in great shape you don't necessarily know what you're getting. I did some checking, and was able to locate a few in the Midwest where I'm located. Again, they weren't coming out of the woodwork and for a mid/high mileage used engine it was looking like between $2-3k. Then I'd have to get it installed.

It was at this point I started accepting that this might be the end. I'm a die-hard sedan/hatch guy and can't stand the truck/suv trend in this country. I had thought I'd get another 4-5 years at least before I had to start thinking about my next ride, but here I was looking at needing something now. In the meantime, old red got put out under a shroud. Wasn't ready to scrap it yet.

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After looking around a bit I was appalled at the limited options out there for a suitable replacement. I wanted something bit enough carry myself and various family members in comfort along with a few bags if needed. Plus some of my trips tend to get long, which is why the 6 was the perfect size 9 years ago. Couldn't get into the Accord, none of the hyundais or Kias appealed to me, and the geniuses at Ford and Gm decided no ones need cars so screw them. Decided to stick with Mazda.

After a few trips to dealers I realized right away that the CX-5 and CX-50 were out. We made it about 1/2 mile into the test drive and got a "ugh, this is terrible. Go back" from the missus. I had to agree. After my 6 anything in the suv class just felt heavy and dull. The Mazda3 drove better but headroom was lacking, and the rear seats were cramped.

After more searching, I decided what better way to honor Mazda's former motto of "zoom zoom" and find what's probably the last true driver's mazda out there. I located a 2021 Carbon Edition and we went home with it after some short negotiations.

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I figured that was it, but three weeks in I was still fantasizing about my 2014. The new one was great, but it just didn't "click" like the one one did. It's a great car, but the manual was still calling to me. I decided to make one last call.

My wife's uncle taught auto repair for over 30 years and I figured if anyone would have some ideas it would be him. I called him up, and after some foreplay I asked what he thought about doing a gasket repair and if needed engine swap. He said his garage would be cleared out come May, and I was free to bring the invalid over and see what we could do.

May arrived, and after swapping in a fresh load of coolant and oil I made the 10 mile trip to his place. Made it without overheating and when Saturday arrived we decided to open her up.

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First order of business was to see if the engine was worth saving. I've done plenty of car work in my days but nothing to this extent, which is why I had engaged an outside consultant. In his words, "We'll pop the oil pan, pull the lower rod caps, and see if the bearings are washed out or still within spec". Now, I'm a mechanical engineer and have worked in engine design so I know what he's talking about. The thought of doing it on a modern automobile engine that's installed in a vehicle is another thing entirely. "Go to O'Reilly and ask for plastigage, one red and one green. Don't bend it, open it, or get it too warm". This was a new one to me, so off I went.

Turns out Plastigage is very thin plastic rod that you put in the bearing races then reinstall. When I asked at O'Reilly I got a blank stare from the younger guy and a "Holy hell, what are you working on?!" From the old gent in the back. I think I made his day. took both of them working together about 14 minutes to dig it up in the back.

Once you pull the cap back off, depending on how much it squashes the plastic you compare it to a gauge and you can see what the clearances are. Pretty ingenious. With the big oil pickup underneath the only rod we could see was cylinder 4, so we pulled that cap, popped the plastigage in, and retorqued it. Took it back off and took a look. Lucky me, the clearance was right in the middle of the factory spec. From that, we made the great assumption that the other bearings are probably okay too. So the engine might be salvageable, on to step two

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I don't have a ton of pictures of the disassembly process, suffice it to say it's not something I'd want to do for fun more than a few times. Not much room in there, and there are a ton of parts to be aware of, things to keep track of, and small parts that are easy to break if you don't know what you're doing. The timing chain cover sure wasn't fun, and the exhaust header in back took some creative socket extensions to get all the bolts off. After about 7 hours though, the head came off.

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Fuel rail and injectors
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Don't mix up the cam bolts and lifters!
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Pretty sure that green stuff shouldn't be there
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Once the head came off we quickly looked at the gasket to see if we could find the smoking gun. Nada, couldn't see anything obvious.

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However, it turns out we didn't have to look very far to find the issue. The dreaded cracked head. From what I've been able to dig up it seems like this is the spot where they tend to fail, between the coolant passage and area where the timing chain cover sits. This explains why I was losing coolant into the oil so quickly.

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At this point we broke for beers and discussed options. The good news is it wasn't the block, but it never crossed my mind that something like this could be fixed. Imagine my surprised when my wife's uncle throws out "I'll call Bob the Cylinder Head Guy on Monday and see what he thinks". Wait.....you mean see if he can get a new one and install it? "No, he might be able to repair that". So apparently Bob's been around the block a few times. With a tentative plan of action, we broke for the day.

Monday comes and goes and I get a text from the Uncle. "So Bob took a look and his theory is that your thermostat failed, causing the engine to overheat. Once that happened the difference in expansion rates between the metal plug and the thin portion of the casting there caused it to crack. He'll pull the valves and that plug, weld the crack and plug hole shut, grind it, tank it, clean the valves and touch up the seats, then reinstall everything." According to Bob he's never seen a steel plug that size in a section that thin. With no other options on the table I tell them to go ahead.

As of this weekend, this is where we stand. The welding is done, and the head is waiting for cleanup grinding and machining. According to Bob I got lucky there's an oil passage in there and he was able to grind out the crack (which went a lot deeper than we though) and reweld it without affecting that passage. While Bob was working his magic I went over and we did all the necessary cleanup on the parts that came out to prep them for going back in, including washing and relubing everything and cleaning all the seal faces. We're waiting on additional parts as we speak, and hope to start putting her back together next weekend.

To be continued!!

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Okay, sorry for the long absence everyone. Sometimes life gets in the way.

When I left off we were ready to put the repaired head back in. It looked a bit more gnarly than I would have expected, but the sealing faces were sound and my UiL said the guy knew his stuff, so off we went. Few things to note during the reassembly:
  • If you have the head off it's a great time to clean the intake valves. Wish I'd gotten a decent pic, but believe me when I say it was a horror show in there.
  • Before you put the intake manifold back on, make SURE you reconnect the PCV hose. Once that manifold is on it's almost impossible to get an arm in there.
  • Don't mix up the two coolant hoses from the radiator, they do go one way but it's easy to get them backwards and they still fit.
  • Torquing the crankshaft pulley is easiest with the oil pan still off. You can use a block of oak or other hardwood to stop the crankshaft from rotating by sticking it in between the number 4 connecting rod and the block.
  • There are several typos in the engine rebuild manual where they say ft-lbs and it should be in-lbs! For experienced people it'll be suspicious immediately, but be aware.
Overall, it all went back together well with nothing that seemed concerning. After some cranking to get the fluids flowing she started right up with no engine codes.

Initial Startup

While monitoring everything and looking for leaks we let it run so it could get up to temp. Things were looking great, until minute 15.....

We suddenly heard a loud metallic "clang" and the engine started making a loud clicking sound. Check engine light came on and after shutting it down and checking the code it was the camshaft position sensor. Not knowing what it might have been, we started it back (maybe not the best idea, but the UiL thought it might have been a washer or bolt we left laying on top falling down) and heard a "ping" followed by a rattle then the engine smoothed back out. I was still suspicious so we pulled the valve cover.

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The cause of the rattle was immediately apparent. Somehow, after running smoothly for almost 15 minutes, it had spit a rocker arm out. On the way, it had made a nice gouge in the lifter bore. Not good, but we thought maybe if we could get the lifter out we could smooth that out and give it another try.

That plan lasted about 2 minutes. When we tried to pull the lifter it suddenly disappeared.....out the bottom of the casting and into the valve cover area. We could also see metal pieces down there. When the rocker arm had come out, it had mashed the lifter down and punched right through the area where the lifter oil passage sits.


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Shouldn't be able to see oil through that hole

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Bob the cylinder head guy can work wonders, but there was no repairing that. The UiL was having a mild breakdown, which for him is saying something. Never in his 30 years had he seen something like this, where it ran fine for almost 15 minutes then catastrophically failed. Our best guess is something got flushed into the lifter pressurization hole and plugged it, causing the lifter to leak down and allowing space for the rocker arm to pop out. The world will never know unfortunately.

After some glasses of bourbon, we concluded that that was that. We raised a glass to big red and I told him I'd start calling around for salvage yards.



Life got in the way and it ended up sitting on the lift for another 2 weeks. Around the beginning of July though I finally sat down to start calling around. Or that was the intention. I found I was still having a hard time accepting that this was it. I still hadn't connected with the new gray one and when we were working on the car we were shocked at how good everything looked. Very little rust underneath, mounts and exhaust looked great, suspension is solid. Except fo the damn engine (not a small thing) the car is in great shape. I figured I'd take one last shot at finding a cylinder head.

I jumped online and dialed up car-parts.com to see what I could find. Lo and behold, there was a head off a 2015 mazda6 down in chicago just an hour from where I am. I gave them a call and arranged to come down and take a look after work. When I showed up, however, she looked pretty rough. It's obvious that it had been sitting around for a while, and the head gasket face didn't look so good. I debated for a while then told them I had to pass. Strike 4.

Next day I sat down again to start calling salvage yards and couldn't help myself. Jumped on car-parts and took another look. I was shocked when another cyilnder head assembly popped up that hadn't been there the other day, this one in Louisiana. I called down there and found out it came off a 2014 6 with around 80k miles on it. She said the engine was running fine when they pulled it apart, the car had been in a rear end collision. The price was definitley right, so I threw down the card and it was on the way. Got a big eye roll from the UiL, but he was on board for round 2.

This is getting long, so I'll get back to it. Fast forward two weeks and we were back where we had been in June, but with an almost new looking cyilnder head assembly.

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Definitely comes apart faster the second time!
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Maybe a bit too much RTV, but better safe than sorry

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Got the younger generation involved too. Older son is very much into mechanical stuff and was happy to help. Those skinny arms can definitely be useful.
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Finished up in about two weeks of evenings, and once again was ready to start her up. I was nervous as hell, but after triple checking it all we cranked it over.

Success!
 
Initially after running through a few warmup/cooldown cycles I was still getting a coolant temp sensor mismatch. I figured it was due to air in the core and would work itself out eventually. To try and help I parked it on a slope and ran through a few warmup cycles and revs, which did seem to get some air out, but I was still getting the code before the engine would warm up. Once it had reached temp it usually didn't come back.

As of today, she's home now and just finished her first longer trip up to northern Wisconsin and back. Bout 400 miles. Halfway through the ECT mismatch error went away and it seems to be running strong. I did notice that after shutting it down yesterday and restarting 5 minutes later I got a nice loud clatter for about 2 seconds but haven't heard that before or since. Next up this evening is an oil change to get out any gunk that's been flushed around, and I'll probably go get a coolant flush/fill soon (still finding bits of foam in there from the packaging the cylinder head came in).

Never know what might happen, but for now it's back to normal. Hoping to get another few years out of this beauty, I'm guessing it'll be the last manual sedan I ever own.

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One last note, arranged a quote from carmax and said goodbye to the Carbon Edition last Tuesday. Great car, but definitely no regrets with the route I've taken.

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