Teeson's Probege Build Thread

not that im aware of, it just has a light

and i think you might be able to hook the oil sender wire to the p5 oil light im going to test it

light green with a red wire.....

ive seen 3 or 4 by my ecu

and 3 or 4 under the driver side dash
 
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so the pinout out for this is as follows:

Grey/green Lightblue/yellow
Blue/Violet Orange/yellow
Green Green/pink
Orange/black Brown/green
White Dark Green

I've looked through all my resources and I can't even come close. Theres a similar color or two, but none that meet all in one plug. If you feel like taking a shot at figuring it out, be much appreciated.

Swap starts tomorrow night, V6 or bust!

:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:DI:DCan't:Dwait:D!!!!:D:D
 
Transmission maybe? Are you using a manual or auto harness for your motor?
 
I think he is using a manal harness, does it go to another connector in the front driver side of the engine
Ill be off in 3 1/2 hours ill check then, and sorry I forgot to check earlier
I was high on bleach, menthol, and miscellaneous aerosols when I was cleaning my starter
 
lol, careful dude that stuff's not too good for you. I was literally in the same state degreasing some of my parts....

I'm using a manual trans.. I just can't thnk of what it would be. not A/C, not headlights or wipers, as those go through the fuse panel area. Maybe like brake fluid or something... It's on the same run of wires as the rear O2 sensors, so near the tunnel/firewall. I can't remember unplugging it either lol.
 
i have one that runs from the back side of my engine to above my tranny, and it goes to another connector
 
Engine, it has alt, O2 and some other crap on it I believe
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Hope that helps
 
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thanks, I'll take a look again but I think those plugs are that pair that meet up in between the harness, this plug has no mate..

As I post this I am waiting for the Val-spar to dry, I was out till midnight getting it painted so it's been drying very slowly in the cold of the night.
Old motors out, so is the bumper and about 80% of the engine bay. I had my buddy come over with his welder and we cut and filled in the strut towers where rust was taking over. Glad I did it because it was getting bad.
Tore apart old trans to get that shift linkage and the oil guide. Also swapped 5th gear, should give me lower revs on the highway. Looked high and low for the cause of that hum/rumble/vibration that plagued me before, theres a little bit of play in the diff bearings but nothing major that would cause it to be that bad. It only happened when I was going straight or left. Not a wheel bearing, checked those.
Had to modify the probe shift linkage to get it to fit.. The bolt holes had to be enlarged and the bushings flare had to be grinded off. Good to know for anybody doing the same thing.
My front motor mount was gone. Literally hanging on by a hair. So I went and got some window weld, filled the thing up and let it dry. I hope it holds long enough for me to buy another AWR mount...
Coated the whole engine bay, was pretty thorough about it, I don't want to see any more rust starting.
Other than that a couple small things to do and I'm ready to drop the motor in and get started hooking everything up. I see multiple trips to the parts store in my future.
pics:

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looks great so far. I would suggest taking off the front fender( few bolts) and making sure to coat the rest of the wheel well metal. I know when i removed mine i found a few spots that needed fixing that i would not have seen without removing them. Plus it allows you to work around the engine bay easier and not worry about scratching your fenders.
 
Good to see another P5 with a KL. We did mine a few months back, and fall back in love with it everyday. It also helps that I have AC, PS, CC, and NO CEL! lol

If you need any technical help with any how to's or wiring info let myself, or Jim (ForcedPGT) know. We are happy to help anytime.

If you don't mind me asking, why didn't you go with a full ZE swap? I beat a MSP with full bolt ons, and 10.5 lbs of boost in mine. AND MINE IS STOCK! That should be reason enough. lol
 
You should route most your power steering return line, and work on the p5 wiring and I would run the kl harness into the firewall. Is your alt a 2 wire? And did you clean your IAC? You should also though on a fuel filter from your pcv valve to your IM. I looked at mine and its pretty nasty after 3k miles so about 5km???
 
Threadjacked

....Sorry it happens
Can you pull any part numbers off your A/C compressor? Ihone and I are going to be dying in a month
All the compressors we have had the ports are about 1/8 or 1/16 to small for the protege5 lines and are you sure your lines are stock?
 
looks great so far. I would suggest taking off the front fender( few bolts) and making sure to coat the rest of the wheel well metal. I know when i removed mine i found a few spots that needed fixing that i would not have seen without removing them. Plus it allows you to work around the engine bay easier and not worry about scratching your fenders.

too late lol. The undercoating looks around it, really I just don't have the time to do all that. And the bolts holding it on probably wont go on again nicely.

You have got some serious time in this thing! Looks llike its coming along nicely

thanx man, really that was only day 1 though. Lot of preplanning though.

I would have done a full ZE swap, buuut it has to be smog legal. And then I would have had to order or motor, I had a donor car and that skipped most of the headaches associated with parts fitting together.
lol @ 10.5 psi that thing must be a monster, I need pics/links/vids/something!

@Jedidiah Haha don't worry, its on topic enough for me. When this swap is done I'll pool everything I know into a thread and then we can continue discussing swapping.

I'll try and update today's progress tomorrow morning again, (I'll let on the motors in :D) but I'm now seriously thinking about using the protege rad and the KL fan. I could use the hose information though...
 
flexy hoses from advance auto parts 1" to 1 1/4" 36 inches and 30 inches i believe 35 dollars
part number 72082 25 bucks <-- this is off a ford taurus and you have to trim down one side slightly like 1/4 inch off and i think its either 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 either way if you tighten down your clamps well enough it wont leak, i was doing over 100mph in 110 degree heat it shouldn't bust off and i straightened mine out, you can get and and test fit and see it you like it
and the hose on the drivers side of the engine i would got with a flexy hose 30 inches long that goes from 1"-1 1/4" if you get bigger you'll need to tighten that clamp down good
radiator plus engine will hold less than a gallon i believe i would just go pre mix it might be more than a gallon it might be less and sorry for using SAE units my metrics suck
 
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cant edit post internet is bad right now and sorry my pics are bad, my camera has been acting bad lately
you can trim down the driver side more than what i did, i left the passenger side alone
 
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Teeson-what'd you paint the engine bay with?? cans?

Val-spar, brush on. Its still not cured and is scratched like crazy, I'll have to touch it up when I'm done.

Thanx man, I'll look into getting the hoses tomorrow. Can one run them like this without issue?


Problem: the jackshaft/halfshaft/intermediate shaft is wrong. The probe's is a 2 bolt 28 spline count, protege's is 3 bolt 30 spline count. diameters are the same but what I need to know is will the proteges bolt to the KL? do I need a different halfshaft? what one do I need?

thnx in advance, not a lot of luck tonight. Motors in, shift linkage, 1 axle. fighting power steering hardline, need fuel lines.. on it goes :)
 
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