bustanut said:
i have a 07 ms3 and just got my system installed. I had it done professionally because of many reasons. I had a 10w7 and alpine amp put in. I had it done at al+eds and they did an awesome job and it was only 90 some bucks with all the wires. The guy was very smart and has actually done a few regular 3's and he was a 100% set on splicing the rear speakers for the install and guarenteed me that there would be no issues and theyve done it this way millions of times. Maybe/probably not the for sure best way to do it, but it works great and is a lot easier. Now i just need advice on how to keep the box from moving
Sorry bro, but this is a mistake. As I said before, the rear channels of the stock head unit do NOT put out a flat response, and in fact roll the bass frequencies (and the treble) off very aggressively. This means your sub isn't getting the right signal. Splicing off the front is the way to go with the 3. You will notice a HUGE difference in low frequency output, especially the sub-frequencies around 40 and below.
Second, why in the Hell did you use a 10W7, and not go full bore? Full bore means processing the stock Hu output to a clean, RCA signal w/ correction and eq control. The 10W7 is easily one of the best subs ever, it only makes sense to optimize it.
Last thing, I don't care how many times someone says they've done something, it can still be wrong. I don't doubt the guy's skills for a second, and he probably runs circles around me in MDF fabrication. But, its a known fact that the Mazda 3 (and 6's) stock head unit really alters the output to the speakers. When I popped the original head unit open down to the circuit board, I saw it just like a lot of others: the circuit board's design is to alter the rear speaker's output, make it band-pass only the midrange/midbass frequencies.
Trust me. If you are ever curious about how an amateur can build at the quality of the pros, or possibly FAR beyond, visit DIYMA.
