Sub and Amp ?
- Thread starter Kosh
- Start date
benzo said:
just a note a "0" awg will not fit you will have to drill your own hole... i drilled mine right next to the one that was there behind the glove box... it works out well... power down the passenger side, speaker cable and rca cable down the driver side...
fourthmeal
Banned
just for you to know...I didn't like the sound of the stock head unit, so what I did was install a Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2 processor. This allows the stock outputs to be into it, and then "fixed" so they are flat. Additional adjustments include 31 band EQ front, 27 band EQ rear (not that you'll use it), 15 band EQ sub, and full time alignment. It is all controlled using a Palm Pilot or other similar product shown to be supporting on their main website. From the processor, you hook up your amplifier(s) via RCA out. The results...to say the least, were astounding. The stock front speakers actually sound GREAT stock, and with a subwoofer, it was wonderful. Naturally, there are improvements one could make to the front end speakers, but it would be one of the last things I'd do.
In order of importance:
Wiring (power, ground, RCA, fresh speaker wire)
Full sound deadening. I used Raamat, and Ensolite. I recommend the same. 50sq. ft. raamat, and 4 yards ensolite dead minimum, to do the car correctly.
Amplifier(s) based on what you want to use.
Quality subwoofer(s) immediately after the amp(s). I used the spare tire well to fiberglass a box. Tough stuff!
Advanced processor, or very high-capability head unit. I didn't want to lose the stock integration and design, so the processor was an easy choice for me.
Front components, or DIY (make your own) setup. Like SEAS, Dayton, Lotus, Vifa, etc. Or, go the easy route and run JBL GTi, Eclipse Sc's, Pioneer PRS high end, Peerless, Rainbow, etc...the list is infinite.
After the front components I'd consider the system DONE, but if you must do rears, go for it.
In order of importance:
Wiring (power, ground, RCA, fresh speaker wire)
Full sound deadening. I used Raamat, and Ensolite. I recommend the same. 50sq. ft. raamat, and 4 yards ensolite dead minimum, to do the car correctly.
Amplifier(s) based on what you want to use.
Quality subwoofer(s) immediately after the amp(s). I used the spare tire well to fiberglass a box. Tough stuff!
Advanced processor, or very high-capability head unit. I didn't want to lose the stock integration and design, so the processor was an easy choice for me.
Front components, or DIY (make your own) setup. Like SEAS, Dayton, Lotus, Vifa, etc. Or, go the easy route and run JBL GTi, Eclipse Sc's, Pioneer PRS high end, Peerless, Rainbow, etc...the list is infinite.
After the front components I'd consider the system DONE, but if you must do rears, go for it.
Finally got everything installed. Had a forum buddy help me get it done right, solder and sealed the LoC in about an hour and a half. Ran the power line through the firewall behind the glove box like suggested.
Having the sub and amp really improves the stock H/U... sort of. Now I don't need to have the volume up around 30 to hear it on the highway with the windows down. Around 20 is loud enough for me. Defenately a good improvement and worth all the time and effort. Grateful I didn't have to bring it to a shop and pay for the install, just had to pay my friend in beers (drinks)
Thanks for all the replys and help!
Having the sub and amp really improves the stock H/U... sort of. Now I don't need to have the volume up around 30 to hear it on the highway with the windows down. Around 20 is loud enough for me. Defenately a good improvement and worth all the time and effort. Grateful I didn't have to bring it to a shop and pay for the install, just had to pay my friend in beers (drinks)
Thanks for all the replys and help!
dear lord thats a big sub box... you probably could have mounted the amp to the back of the sub box and saved yourself some trunk room... or go sealed and save a bunch of trunk room... also i would suggest putting a layer of sound deadening on the front doors with just the stock set up it helped a bunch...
I havent mounted the amp to anything yet it is just sitting on the floor. I need to get a longer power line or move the amp under the front seat and get longer wires running from the amp to the sub. I salvaged all the wires from what was installed in my old 2dr car.
johnnyB5646
Member
- :
- 07BlkMica MazdaSpeed3
how do you get the glove box out?
johnnyB5646 said:
The glovebox can be removed by removing the two screws at the top and then pulling the box out. There are approx. 5 retention clips holding it in place.
Also see
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123659121
Euphorism said:
So you guys are sayin you will loose the use of the rear speaker? Why? i am in the middle of piecing together my stereo now with on of these...I dont want to loose the use of my rear speakers....(pissed) Is there any way to fix that problem to where you can keep the rca output and keep the use of the speakers?
BHOUST528 said:
I have not done this, but I dont see why you would lose your rears. You are SPLICING the wire not cutting it off the rear.
As long as you just connect/splice/tab into the rears and run it to the rca, there should not be any problems.
Quote me if I am wrong plz
Hey guys good luck with the install. I just bought an audiocontrol LC6 signal processor...CDT components up front, and coax in the back. I have a Phoenix Gold Xenon 100.4 powering those. I need help on sub and amp. 12 in small sealed box. Looking at TC9. Anyone heard of them. www.TCSOUNDS.com. Any suggestions?
fourthmeal
Banned
WOAH....very important! Don't use the rear audio speaker signal for any kind of tap, unless you want some serious frequency response problems.
This is with regard to the 3 series cars, they have weird EQ on the rear speakers, and much less so on the fronts. Tap the FRONTS. Trust me!
This is with regard to the 3 series cars, they have weird EQ on the rear speakers, and much less so on the fronts. Tap the FRONTS. Trust me!
fourthmeal
Banned
Kosh said:Who can tell me a good place to run power from the battery through the firewall? I have a 07 speed 3. This project is turning into quite a b**** and I almost wish I would have just paid for hi-fi buys to put it in...almost
Check out the info that is within this forum man! Chuyler1 wrote some stuff about it, as did I. The best place to put wire from 4 gauge and smaller, is behind the passenger side firewall heat shield, where the factory ECU wire harness has a grommet that connects to the engine compartment. Slit this grommet carefully, and poke your wire through. Then, tie up the power wire at the back of the firewall area (nice and tight fit, have fun), and run your connection through a fuse holder to the battery itself.
Read my install diary if you want info on the Speed 3, and what you can do with it, audio wise.
i have a 07 ms3 and just got my system installed. I had it done professionally because of many reasons. I had a 10w7 and alpine amp put in. I had it done at al+eds and they did an awesome job and it was only 90 some bucks with all the wires. The guy was very smart and has actually done a few regular 3's and he was a 100% set on splicing the rear speakers for the install and guarenteed me that there would be no issues and theyve done it this way millions of times. Maybe/probably not the for sure best way to do it, but it works great and is a lot easier. Now i just need advice on how to keep the box from moving
