strut mount replacement - alignment off?

[DDP5]

As the title says...I need to replace my front passenger strut mount. As long as I install it in the proper orientation and no other complications arise, how far out of spec will the alignment be? Is there an adjustment that I can really mess up when doing this (other than the proper mount orientation)? I shouldn't be messing with the tie-rods or whatever they're called in a front-wheel drive vehicle, so toe shouldn't be way off. I'm experienced with rear-wheel drive Jeeps and I know what parts affect their alignment, but struts are a bit new to me. I expect minor alignment issues, I just don't want to get done and have it so far off it's squealing tires as I drive to get an alignment.

Also, is there any way to change the mount without removing the strut? Maybe by jacking up the car, drop the strut down, and replace the mount? I'm asking not so much to keep from getting an alignment, but it just seems quicker if it's possible as I described.

 

[xxxmonoxidechil]

Mark the strut mount before removal. I usually take a marker and blacken the top of the nut most inwards in the engine bay. You wont have any issues at all driving to the alignment shop as long as you reinstall the strut mount as it was when removed. That, and the tie rod are what really screw up an alignment. But you have zero reason to touch the tie rod when just replacing struts, so thats not a worry.

 

[kms1990]

i did struts all the way around a few months back and as stated above mark the orientation prior to taking everything apart. even with that your bound to be off slightly. I went straight to the alignment shop and it was off just ever so slightly. so its worth your money and time to have it checked afterword anyway

 

[Natey]

If you try to take the mount/top hat off without compressing the spring first...

 

[xxxmonoxidechil]

Only if the car is jacked up. If its still on the ground, it wont do anything by removing the nut. I wouldnt recommend it, But ive actually installed lowering springs on a car bu using the car as my spring compressor. lol

 

[DDP5]

So with the car jacked up there is no way for the axle to droop low enough to release all tension from the springs? On my Jeep I can droop the axle and almost pull out the springs by hand.

If I use spring compressors will that give enough room to swap out the mount without fully removing the strut?

 

[pcb]

So,.. after reading this thread, and the FSM information about it,...

My question is,.. what the hell is a strut mount ???


And,... as Natey stated,.. looks like if you remove the piston rod nut, the shock absorber WILL KILL YOU .

 

[DDP5]

Well after looking at it a bit closer, it doesn't look like trying to do the work without removing the strut will make the install any easier. The upper portion has to be unfastened regardless and the bottom doesn't look like it should take more than a few moments time.

I understand one should not remove the piston nut while the spring has tension.

If folks have installed new springs while using the vehicle as a compressor, then my earlier question has been answered. One could take off the nut, jack up the car, swap out the top components, lower the car, and replace the nut. As I said earlier, that may not be any quicker, but useful if no spring compressor is available.

@pcb
The strut mount is #9 in your first picture, and the bearing too.

 

[Slow_Q]

Hi,
I just installed new struts all around last month on my P5. I don't think there is enough droop to free up the spring. You'll probably have to compress the spring, either in place or after removing the strut from the car. Unbolting the two bottom bolts is not that much extra work, and I suspect compressing the springs in-place will be space-constrained.

As far as the effect on alignment, the toe in front and rear were a bit off (more so in the rear.) Surprising, since I did not touch any of the adjustments for toe on either end. It was still within specs, but the toe specs for the P5 are pretty wide.

As far as camber, replacing the struts did not seem to affect that at all - the alignment shop left that alone (there's not much they can do, really, without camber plates, elongating strut holes, or other big tricks.)

The effect on the alignment was not a lot, though, so you'll be able to drive around (to the alignment shop, if you so desire, too.) But honestly, the slightly-off alignment might have been due to years of driving - I really can't tell if it was due to the new struts, or to the few million potholes I've hit during the past 12 years.

Good luck,

enrique

PS. I can get before/alignment numbers from last month, if you would like, and post them here for grins.

 

[pcb]

@pcb
The strut mount is #9 in your first picture, and the bearing too.

Well if you mount the strut to the area between parts #5 and #6, shouldn't the top of the strut tower be called the strut mount and maybe part #9 be renamed maybe "spring mount" ????,,...



I do remember removing the four "strut mount" nuts and standing on the knuckle to push it down and the strut dropped just far enough to clear the threads of the "strut mount",.. so if you were to remove the piston nut as well (like xxxmonoxidechil mentioned,.. then lift the car) the spring would would expand further and take up that inch or so or clearance I had.

And,.. I don't see how you could manage to fit any kind of spring compressor into the strut tower.

BUT,... I don't see why you couldn't use the car as the compressor and just remove strut from the knuckle to swap out the components. It might be a dangerous PITA to slowly lower the car while keeping everything lined up, so I don't recommend doing it either.

(doesn't mean I'm not gonna try it,... the danger factor makes it more funner,.. squashed finger tips grow back if u don't take off too much)

 

[Natey]

Only if the car is jacked up. If its still on the ground, it wont do anything by removing the nut. I wouldnt recommend it, But ive actually installed lowering springs on a car bu using the car as my spring compressor. lol

How did you get the spring out and the new one back in with no spring compressor? (scratch) I mean it's all one assembly once it's removed from the car right? Lowering the car back onto the struts to compress the springs? Zikes!

EDIT: 15 bucks. Mine have lasted for years. That's a lot of energy in those springs and more than one person has been seriously hurt by them.
http://www.harborfreight.com/macpherson-strut-spring-compressor-set-61601.html

 

[Valk]

sheesh i really hope you arent trying to do the ghetto way here... should take less than 30 minutes to change the strut and thats completely taking it apart and replacing stuff. crack the top bolt loose while its in the car, but dont remove it, drop the strut out of the car, use the very inexpensive and simple tool to compress spring, undo the bolt, pop the hat off, do whatever you need to do and reinstall in revese order. there arent many things simpler than replacing struts.
the hardest part is removing the endlinks without killing them. I would just assume they are going to die and have a replacement on hand before touching anything.

 

[kms1990]

easy if your spring compressor works as its supposed to

 

[xxxmonoxidechil]

How did you get the spring out and the new one back in with no spring compressor? (scratch) I mean it's all one assembly once it's removed from the car right? Lowering the car back onto the struts to compress the springs? Zikes!

Its only 1 assembly when its bolted together. If you undo the strut nut in the strut mount, then its not 1 assembly anymore. I did that, then slowly jacked the car up using the weight of the car as the spring compressor. For the install, i did the exact same thing, but in reverse. Used the weight of the car to compress the spring. The hard part was lowering the jack with one hand, while trying to line up the strut rod through the strut mount with the other one. Like i said in my 1st post, i definitely wouldnt recommend it. But you gotta do, what you gotta do when your over an hour away from the closest part store, and need to get a job done.

 

[pcb]

...The hard part was lowering the jack with one hand, while trying to line up the strut rod through the strut mount with the other one...

That's when I figure I'll squish my fingers...

..(doesn't mean I'm not gonna try it,... the danger factor makes it more funner,.. squashed finger tips grow back if u don't take off too much)...