stock speakers on 2003.5

Guys, guys. I don't own this.... I just saved the pics from a previous post for reference. ;)

This is my setup.... :D

DSCN1555-vi.jpg
 
really?

I was wondering because that box is tiny

I like my two 10's, although I just poped one
I cant decide what kind of subs I want next, right now I'm living on two 12 inch baja subs :'( :'(
and I think those just blew as well, but thats ok cuz I got them for free
 
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yeah that's the one I got, heh I noticed they paint the spare tire area yellow too.

how does it sound? it sounds pretty nice to me, but then again I've never sit in another protege w/out it, so I can't tell you the difference. but I can tell you this, I've had a car with 2 10" subs in the trunk before, and this poor thing is not even comparable to real boxed ones.
 
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dukerjames said:
why would Mazda install such a product and charge us more money?.

Becuase uniformed people will pay the extra money assuming they have a decent peice of equipment.
 
Aricjm15 said:
really?

I was wondering because that box is tiny

I like my two 10's, although I just poped one
I cant decide what kind of subs I want next, right now I'm living on two 12 inch baja subs :'( :'(
and I think those just blew as well, but thats ok cuz I got them for free

You might want to find out why your subs keep blowing before wasting more money to kill more subs.
 
eMKay said:


Guess you never heard it. It's very good.

Sure, for a 5.25" speake in a 1/16th" think plastic bandpass enclosure that can't even reproduce sub bass.
Computer subwoofers are better.:rolleyes:
 
1st MP3 in NH said:


Sure, for a 5.25" speake in a 1/16th" think plastic bandpass enclosure that can't even reproduce sub bass.
Computer subwoofers are better.:rolleyes:

YUP

it was an old speaker, only 120 watts RMS
I was feeding it about 150 rms

I'm thinking a single 10inch alpine type R or a 10 inch W7 (if I have the cash)
 
150 watts rms will NEVER blow a 120 watt rms speaker.

Only 3 things kill a speaker:

1) Distortion, this is the primary cuase of sub death.
2) A poorly or incorrectly built box.
3) Redicously to much power rms. Atleast double its rating.
 
I Had a ViViD 02 P5 with a 12 disc and a 3- 10 jl all in my hatch-----Now I have the 6 disc indash and the new subwoofer. Nothing in the hatch of my Silver 03.5 P5! I had plenty of systems in plenty of cars and I think that the extra bass coming from the sub could be a little bit louder but over all I love having a Empty Hatch!!!!!!! I would not invest in this system if it didn't come new in the vehicle for those of you checking into it. Great idea but someone needs to figure out a swap for the speaker or something???? MY .02
 
I am thinking of building a simialr box with a opening for a single 10" sub.
Possibly to sell. I have to check depth and all tha nice crap tuesday though.
 
the sub is about 2 years old
I am running 410 watts RMS to two of those speakers
it might be my box, its alittle smaller than what it should be
 
I would be more interested inhow well its sealed, I am assuming its a sealed box. Also what is it made out of.
A poorly sealed box will fry a sub no problem.
Also it may be a component mismatch. If you like PM me the make and models of your sub amp and subs. I will see what I can find out.
 
My 03 didn't come with the sub in the tire thing.

I pulled out those crappy paper stock things out of the doors
and installed some better quality stuff.

In the back I have a small bandpass box with two 8s and a 250 watt amp pushing them.

Sounds a hell of a lot better than those 25 watt stock things that MAZDA calls speakers.
 
Don't knock small subs...the plastic enclosure is what's lacking.

I found a video on sounddomain last week of a guy who put two 6.5" subs in his Golf. He built a custom box that he is waiting on a patent for. The video was him playing the system for different people and having them guess what was in the trunk. People were guessing anywhere between a single 15" to 3 12"s. Pretty amazing s***.

Anyway, just my 2 cents.
 
The tricky part was the front door handles.
Towards the front of the handle on the bottom side there is a retaining clip that holds it in place and the rear is just hooked inside. From the bottom take a standard screwdriver and push up on it. You will feel it if you are in the right place.

Once you get the handle the rest is undoing the clips. There are some clips on the side that you have to pull the centers out partially before they will come out. Fingernails work for those but they are a pain (pun intended).

You will hve to reach up inside the door panel to unplug the windows. the driver front door was the most difficult.

Over all it isn't that hard. Patience will get you a long way. The whole inside of the car is a snap together process.

You can basically gut the inside with some screwdrivers and some metric sockets. Just remember if it doesn't come apart then find out why before pulling on it. The car is made of plastic.

You can do it!:D
 
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