Stock Intercooler Question looking to get Protune

OTRchillin3

Member
:
2008 Mazdaspeed3 Black Mica
HI guys im new to this forum so far i have a injen cai, cobb tip, forge bpv, turbo xs rp, and cobb ap running stage 1+ and this may im looking to get a turboxs catless downpipe and a protune but i still have the stock intercooler will i be alright with the stock ic until i get enough money for an upgrade??
 
If you know that you're going to get an upgraded IC, whether it be FMIC or TMIC you should wait for the protune because you'll just be wasting it. Getting a protune and then adding a significant mod like an intercooler upgrade will likely throw off your tune, then you'll have to get it retuned. Get all of your mods done first, as long as your car is running safely with the cobb ots maps you should be fine. Getting a protune should be your last goal with this car performance wise, unless you have the money to keep getting retuned, or are handy with cobbs ATR. I myself am waiting on getting it protuned because I'm still not sure whether or not I want to get an aftermarket Down-pipe. But regardless of whether I do or don't, when I get protuned it will be my last step.
 
Thanks for the help yea i think ill wait on the downpipe also and try to get a intercooler instead. I cant choose between a tmic or a fmic , but how is your pg fmic?
 
I have a turboxs race pipe and picked it up from turboxs its only 15 minutes away:p there fmic looks awesome only bad things the price i think ill get a ETS Tmic but well see.
 
Why wait on dp? See my mods below. Stock TMIC is working well at my mod level. Dp will add serious power. FMIC will introduce turbo lag and only helps with heat soak. It does not "make" power.
 
I love my PG kit, at the time it was a better deal than any of the TMIC upgrades on the market which was my reason for getting it. Now you have Corksport and CPE making some pretty affordable ones. But anyway, PG no longer carries the fmic kits, but the CXRACING kit is basically the same thing. I personally have never experienced any turbo lag. If I'm not careful with the gas pedal the turbo still spools close to 2500 rpms.
 
You can drastically drop ECU-recorded BATs on any intercooler setup by disconnecting the throttle body water heat. It's a couple minutes work with a vise grip to block the hose and a small length of brake line flared at each end.

This design isn't so great as the measure of boost air temp is taken off a thermistor in the TB, exposed to 220 degree engine coolant. Now the BATs will more closely align with actual air temp and the car stops "heat soaking" so badly, which is actually ecm retarding timing and adding fuel because of the perceived high BATs.
 
Back