Sr20 t25

[im2bad4ya]

To clock the turbo, because I can't find info on this, do I have to loosen the four bolts on the exhaust side or remove the snap ring on the compressor side? Or both?

 

[Brian_K]

just compress the snap ring, you dont even have to remove it. you can also do some minor adjustments with the exhaust side like you mentioned but to clock it to the correct orientation you'll have to clock the compressor side.

 

[tweety2300]

Does the turbo need to be rebalanced if its clocked to a different position?

 

[Alamo1]

No. Unless you take the housings right off and bend one of the blades or something.

 

[Brian_K]

Does the turbo need to be rebalanced if its clocked to a different position?

Nope, not unless you take apart the chra

 

[im2bad4ya]

just compress the snap ring, you dont even have to remove it. you can also do some minor adjustments with the exhaust side like you mentioned but to clock it to the correct orientation you'll have to clock the compressor side.

Cool, thanks for the info. I'm all ready to install but I'm gonna wait to get my CS exhaust in the mail to do it all in one shot, it'll be a week or two. (spin)

 

[im2bad4ya]

I got it! But I still need answers questioned for those that have done this.

So if you're going from a stock turbo to the T25 (mine was a rebuilt 240SX turbo), everything off the stock turbo that you would need is swappable except the oil drain flange. Make sure you order a T25 oil drain flange and get a vacuum or steel line to run the new oil return to the block/oil pan. Also I had to clock the turbo housing just slightly to get the coolant lines in place (loosen the 4 bolts that hold the hot side together and twist) WHILE ALSO clocking the cold side of the turbo pointing up (did mine with a snap ring tool).

So everything works except I'm only boosting 4psi instead of the 6psi I was boosting before the swap. The only thing different other than the turbo is the way I routed the vacuum lines.
Old setup- wastegate=intake manifold, BOV=Vacuum block off Brake Booster
New setup- wastegate=cold side turbo, BOV=intake manifold
If I got back to the old setup, should I be getting back those 2 missing psi? and if not, is if just a matter of adjusting the rod on the wastegate? and when I adjust it, do I make it longer or shorter to get more psi??

 

[ffspeed3]

Thats a good question cause I have yet to hit 6psi with my wastegate so I got a 8psi one and now I hit 6psi. I too am routing the vacuum for the wastegate to the cold side of the turbo.

 

[Alamo1]

OK here's some hints. THe shorter the vac line the less restriction and the quicker response so the W/G opens sooner and is more responsive to the pressure in the line since it is right there. You adjust the rod end closer to the canister. just think about having to blow a piece of popcorn across the floor with one straw compared to ten. Also, whenever the W/G position is moved on the housing it will affect the setting (ie: clocking and changing the angle or distance the canister is from the swing valve in the housing.

 

[im2bad4ya]

OK here's some hints. THe shorter the vac line the less restriction and the quicker response so the W/G opens sooner and is more responsive to the pressure in the line since it is right there. You adjust the rod end closer to the canister. just think about having to blow a piece of popcorn across the floor with one straw compared to ten. Also, whenever the W/G position is moved on the housing it will affect the setting (ie: clocking and changing the angle or distance the canister is from the swing valve in the housing.

Yeah, routing the waste gate to the cold side is obviously shorter than routing it to the intake manifold. But I still only hit 4 psi. I ask and can only think of the old routing as a possibility because when I first got my vacuum block (when I still had the stock turbo) I routed everything to it and my gauge wasn't reading correctly and wasn't boosting right. I put the wastegate back to the intake manifold and everything fixed itself, like if the vacuum from there pulls better or something.

So shortening the rod on the WGA means I should get more boost?