Spray???

msp3clutch

Member
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Mazda, Mazdaspeed3
Hey guys, it's one of my few times me posting something up here on the forums and a while since i actually started working on my car again and I need some help...OK first off I'm confused on what should be my next step in making this lil red devil quicker LOL...I have a 3inch CBE (mendral bent with 1cat), CS FMIC, TS dualport, and TS MBC set at 20lbs (boom06) (yes i know, zoom zoom, boom boom) but yet to show any issues and holding tight to my lucky rabbit foot) anyways I'm doing very good with this setup right now...have beatin K series on Hondata and K-pro fuly built and all that good stuff and taken my fair share of Evo's and STI's tuned at 18lbs with bolt on's but now I came up on some some extra cash and was actually thinking between many mods but not sure what to actually go with first...What I had in mind is PTP Fuel Pump, (btw some guy wants to sell me his for 280 used and 4.5k miles on it, do you recommened it?) Cobb AP (found one for 425, a local), DP (want CS so i can do a screamer pipe <3) or a shot? my friend just bought a setup he was going to run on his skittle that just got a GT30 on it but wants to work on his stance now and is done with speed...for now LOL...he is letting it go for $250 which I know is a steal since its still in the box...wanted to run a 50 shot which a friend recommended as a starter but we both really don't know how are motor will take it and for how long lol...BTW I don't abuse my car, even though I'm at 20 yes i know LOL, I drive it slow as if I was dubing lol only time I punchit is if the run is worth it (once a week maybe LOL)...so guys please steer me to the right direction =) Greatly Appreciated!!!!!
 
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Let's see, currently 20 pounds of boost on the stock turbo, without a tune, now a 50 horse shot of N2O? In a word, yer gonna blow, sooner or later. That's pushing the stock turbo WAY to hard and the 50 shot of instant torque on top of that superheated air is going to turn the pistons and rods into a lovely rouille of molten metal.

I'm not afraid of nitrous, in fact, I used it for years on my drag car. It's actually great in combination with forced induction but, in this case, you are putting ALOT of strain on some not so strong rotating parts.

These cheap used parts have you thinking you can do this on a budget. Chances are good you'll eventually pay for that conceit.

You should spend the money to professionally tune the car with the AP and see how happy you are then.
 
Let me see if I get this right -- bragging about a 3 inch CBE which nets just about zero power gain on this car, while he is still bottled up where the exhaust restriction really is - the stock downpipe. He's running an MBC set for 20 psi on the K04 turbo, making nothing but nuclear reactor heat above 5,500 rpm at that boost level. He's wanting to add a downpipe but chosing one on the basis of whether it can support a screamer pipe so he can be a ricer poser. Still on stock tune with that high boost. Don't know what kind of intake he has. Says nothing about his AFR's, whether he has any knock retard issues, and he's wanting to run 50 shot on the bottle? Oh, and he's trying to buy used parts and do his upgrades on the cheap.

Humm, I think we have a candidate for near future total fail, IMHO.

Steer him in the right direction:

1. Put a true BPV on that engine and run it full recirc.

2. Get a catted or catless dp/rp.

3. Get the car tuned - either a simple Hypertech reflash or a good custom AP tune, keeping EGT's at or below 1500 degrees F, with KR under control and no more boost than 18 - 19 psi under full load with AFR's safe.

4. Forget about the ricer screamer pipe and all the poser "look at me, listen to me" crap.

5. (Probably should be #1 given his belief that he's running safe -- get a Dash Hawk or other data logging scan tool or something to verify that he really is safe).

6. Stay as far away from the bottle as possible without beefing up the internals on this engine.

7. If he really wants to make power he needs forged internals and go big turbo with custom tune, aftermarket intake and exhaust manifolds, etc. If he's not ready to do that, he needs to stay within steps 1-6.
 
Yeah +1 to that. MBC appealed to me at first cause they were so cheap but I've learned in life if something is worth getting (like horsepower), you shouldn't look to get it the cheapest way possible. Get rid of the boost controller and get an AP or Hypertech like stated before, but based on your "gotta have power" attitude you'll probably want the AP for the long run.
 
lol ok guys yes your right about nuclear blow up on this car lol i learned about it before buying the car...now lets see...S.P. posing as a ricer, hey I like the sound of my POS turbo dumping its life away...the 20lbs is doing me real good on these POS rods that are known to crumble down to pieces when at idle after a run, and for the intake you've got to be kidding me!!!! LMAO i thought maybe i did'nt state that I had a CS FMIC (Corksport Front mount intercooler) which comes which a RAM AIR INTAKE!!!! -__- and as of the "BOV" lmao WTF does no1 read the damn post I put up?! TS Dualport (Turbosmart Dualport BOV running 50/50) -___- wow all i got was ppl complaining about my wanting to go BIG HP lol and yes obviously my AFR is all around the damn chart since im bolt ons and no fuel let alone a tune, no knocking thank god -___- and as of my exhaust it comes stright pipe from the Corksport downpipe (yes i wasn't clear about the exhaust, it hooks up perfectly to the Corksport DP)...I was going to get it in the trade to but I knew id have seal problems from the lack of back pressure and didn't want to smoke up my whole city...btw i do have the PCV fix...thanks Darth Vader i was also leaning to the AP first but also the fuel pump at the same time so i can have an even all tune...every1 tells me its the biggest helpful upgrade you can get if your already bolt'd on... and the DP im ok not getting it now and rather get the fuel pump first and not smoke but as of the 20lbs ive had it for 20K miles already...hey maybe i have a factory freak MS3 that wont give out on the rods lol currently on 41K miles and rides like its new =)
 
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