Split Second or AEM

[2-8-1]

Split Second air and Fuel Controller or AEM F/IC? Who has one or the other and can tell me the pros and cons of each? Anyone have one and would rather have the other? Anyone feel that one is definitely superior to the other in ease of use, tuning capability, fine adjusting properties, or reliability?

All input on the matter is welcome.

 

[owenwes]

Have no clue but I guess everyone goes with the split second.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

there are I think 3 guys running the AEM now... it's gonna take a lot more work but you'll end up with a tuner better than the V3 SSFTC.. If you're asking the question, I'd bet you're better off with the SSAFC, but if you wanna put the work into it I'm sure you won't be disappointed.

 

[43975]

The AEM has nice functions but hasn't been done too often and has been a b**** to install correctly on the MSP from what I have researched. The Split second is the tried and true piggy-bag for the moderate modder. If your planning a big hefty build, ypou may want to start looking full standalone

 

[Ricktalife]

http://siteground207.com/~protegeg/product_info.php?cPath=32_165&products_id=866

thats the baby you want ^^

 

[lp216]

Plug and Play : SSAFC. Pre-load map, easy install, good support with the issue.

Plug and pray : FIC. No map, need to get it tune. s*** to install. Go feature, very complete.

 

[43975]

Play and Pray...LOL
there may actually be a PnP wiring conveter out there for the AEM Ken at PG says he's going to be testing one http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4602503&postcount=42

and JDMsam says he has them in stock: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4603382&postcount=45

But the support isn't there yet. Unless you live very close to tuners like JDM sam and Ken at PG

 

[2-8-1]

After reading through some of the links, perhaps I should outline my plans.

I'm just looking for a bolt on setup, IE, turbo-back exhaust, FMIC, relocate MAF, 10PSI. So, with everyone's input it seems the Split second would be the way to go.

Another questsion, what about OBD2 diagnostics? Is that still viable with that setup?

 

[Wagonbacker9]

After reading through some of the links, perhaps I should outline my plans.

I'm just looking for a bolt on setup, IE, turbo-back exhaust, FMIC, relocate MAF, 10PSI. So, with everyone's input it seems the Split second would be the way to go.

Another questsion, what about OBD2 diagnostics? Is that still viable with that setup?

its just a piggyback, so yes, your OBD2 will be in tact. it basically just adjusts (tricks) the ECU into doing what you want it to. I would agree with plans that mild (I don't mean this as an insult, your plans are more agressive than mine), the AFC is your better bet.

 

[2-8-1]

Not taken as an insult, it will be my daily driver so I don't want anything major. I would, as a side setup, see how much power I can get out of stock 6.5PSI boost, then turn it up to 10 down the road after the supporting mods are in.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

for what you're doing and considering how much support and proven performance the unit has, the split second is the way to go

 

[Wagonbacker9]

yeah, I'll probably be up to 8 psi just due to opening up the IC and midpipe... i don't plan to put in any sort of boost control.

 

[2-8-1]

thanks for the input guys, SS will be the way I go it seems.

Wagon, a Boost controller was one of the first mods I had planned, not sure if I will go electronic or manual though, just looking for a way to keep boost consistant and without major spikes until I get better supporting mods in the car. From my udnerstanding these cars stock boost varies quite a bit and is very inconsistant.

 

[.mazda.speed.]

I am currently trying to make the same decision. Probably just going to also go SS.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

thanks for the input guys, SS will be the way I go it seems.

Wagon, a Boost controller was one of the first mods I had planned, not sure if I will go electronic or manual though, just looking for a way to keep boost consistant and without major spikes until I get better supporting mods in the car. From my udnerstanding these cars stock boost varies quite a bit and is very inconsistant.

manual controllers will allow a lot more spike than electronic... I would hold off on it (If I were you, but its your car, do as you please) until you have your tuner in place just so you don't have to worry about leaning it out.

 

[Metallic36]

I'll also give a (2thumbs) for the Split Second.

 

[2-8-1]

manual controllers will allow a lot more spike than electronic... I would hold off on it (If I were you, but its your car, do as you please) until you have your tuner in place just so you don't have to worry about leaning it out.

Well, I guess it should be said that this isn't my first rodeo so to speak. I have owned and currently own forced induction cars, I am familiar with the concepts, but unfamiliar with the MSP and it's aftermarket, I have more experience with LS1/Mustang/Subaru setups. With that being said, Wagon, my mindset was to go with parts in this order.

afr/boost guages. Engine Mounts/Inserts. Boost controller with boost locked to the stock setting. Tuner. FMIC/Turbo Back, plugs, wires, coil packs. THEN lastly ease the boost up to 10 while tuning the car. If anyone has any input on the ignition side of things, I am all ears.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

Engine Mounts/Inserts. (these are a MAJOR weakpoint). wideband afr/boost gauges (get boost first to make sure you have no leaks and your WGA is OK, wideband can wait til you get your tuner, bit is always nice to have). FMIC/Turbo Back. plugs, wires, coil packs. Tuner. THEN lastly ease the boost up to 10 while tuning the car. when you up the boost, go to a step colder plugs... I recommend NGK platinum..

as long as you're changing out all the ignition parts, some prefer the 1.8l coil pack conversion over the CNP/COP stock ignition setup. I'm neutral on it, so research it if you like.

the stuff I said re: boost control is somewhat application specific. these cars tend to spike and creep badly when boost controlled, so until you're tuning for it, you're just better off letting the WGA do its job.

 

[43975]

Also get that LSD welded They are very weak and tend to break easily.
I've done a ton of research on the plugs and you may want to go NGK 1 step colder in copper. I was planning platnum but atleast for my set-up copper is the way to go. Plug number is NGK ZFR7F if you plan on the tigher .28 gap get the once without the -11 if you plan on the stock gap the ZFR7F-11 is what you want