Speaker size in CX-5 2017?

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CX-5 AWD, 2017
I have a non Bose 6 speaker system in my CX-5 2017 model. It has 2 tweeters on the A pillar, 2 door speakers on the front and 2 door speakers at the back. No sub woofer. I was thinking of changing the two front door and two rear door speakers and perhaps even the two A pillar tweeters in the first instance and get a line out to a after market combined amplifier and sub woofer (to be placed under the seat) from the rear door speaker connections since I need to change the rear door speakers any way. Does any one know the size of these original speakers in the 2017 model (or what size that fits into the existing hole)? Thank you in advance.
 
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CX-5 AWD, 2017
Another request Anchor man, do you have instruction on removal of door panel and removal of speakers in the 2017 model? I was wondering if the speaker opening will take a 8 inch speaker even though the originals are 6.5 inch.
 
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CX-5 AWD, 2017
Now I can reply to that question. i just replaced the 4 door speakers with Hertz 6.5 inch two way speakers and it was not that difficult. Just needs a bit of courage to pull the door card paying attention to all the clips holding it in place. I tore out the old speaker membrane and used dremmel tool to first widen the hole in the old speaker mount and then after some trimming of the mount, got the new speaker screwed on to the old speaker mount. assembelled every thing together and it sounds great. I need to change the A pillar Tweeters too but I am not sure how to remove the A pillar trim. It has a tether strip and I do not want to cut it. Any suggestions are welcome.
 

nonoabby123

Member
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2017 mazda cx 5
The "tether" isn't complicated. just get needle nose pliers and turn the connected piece til it lines up with the hole and pops out.

its a pretty robust trim clip. you wont break it.
 
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CX-5 AWD, 2017
Thank you but the tether has surely two ends. There is one end connected to the car body panel and another end connected to the plastic trim panel. Which end do I twist by 90 degrees to remove? And, do I have to disconnect the battery to stop the air bag from deploying during removal of A pillar trim?
 
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nonoabby123

Member
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2017 mazda cx 5
d9mQI4Y.png
 
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'18 Mazda 6 Signature
Well I'm taking the plunge. Seeing as the CX5 is my new DD I can't live with the base audio.

Ordered a set of Polk DB6502. Hoping it all fits without too much hassle and I don't regret not just going with Coax's.

Anyhoo, has anyone removed the OEM tweeter to see what the harness looks like? Wondering if there's a speaker wire adapter for it out there somewhere.

Also thinking about an under-seat sub to augment the lower end a bit (not willing to give up any trunk space)
 
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CX-5 AWD, 2017
Well I'm taking the plunge. Seeing as the CX5 is my new DD I can't live with the base audio.

Ordered a set of Polk DB6502. Hoping it all fits without too much hassle and I don't regret not just going with Coax's.

Anyhoo, has anyone removed the OEM tweeter to see what the harness looks like? Wondering if there's a speaker wire adapter for it out there somewhere.

Also thinking about an under-seat sub to augment the lower end a bit (not willing to give up any trunk space)

Google is your best friend.
Here is a link to a guy who has posted the photos of the tweeter and I can vouch for it since I have removed the A pillar trim to have a look at it too. I will be changing them this week end if time permits. I personally feel that the original tweeters look good but sound nothing. Never heard a squeak from them all these months I have owned this car. The door speakers were comparatively better sounding but lacked detail and depth. Too much base and poor mid and high tones in the original set up. You will have to do some dremmeling if you want a perfect air tight fit of the new door speakers on the old base /mount. If you are changing the mount too then it is a different story. By the way the tweeter connector is some Chinese format and there is a link to that too. I plan to chop these connectors and use some othe mini connector. Good luck!

https://imgur.com/gallery/Z7oJ7
http://penful.com/articles/mx5-door/
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-...ug-PA-material-174463-1-free/32656714912.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/shh...4.html?spm=2114.search0104.0.0.4e422befM9BYtE
 
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'18 Mazda 6 Signature
Thanks Raj! Now that's the kind of valuable info that helps! I haven't been able to dig in at all yet, just trying to get prepped.

I'm familiar with the connecter too then. It's the same as what was in my previous mazdas. I just wasn't sure if it has been changed in the newer CX-5's.

I'm trying to avoid chapping anything OEM - in my past mazdas there wasn't a lot of cable slack to work with, but I may just chop if there's enough slack to play with in the pillar. In the last car I've chopped the connector off of a PC fan extension cable which worked to tap into the OEM connector. I found this trick on a mazda 6 forum somewhere (can't find it now) and will plan to do the same if I need to.

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1m9vOLVXXXXa4aXXXq6xXFXXX4/10pcs-3-Pin-Fan-Connector-Resistor-to-Reduce-Fan-Speed-Noise-Extension-Cable-Cord-Wire-Male.jpg

Googling on Gen2 CX-5 specific audio is weak. Lots on the other cars, more or less trying to confirm if Mazda followed the trend on this one or if there's any surprises.

I'm comfortable with modding the OEM speakers to fit the new ones :)
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
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Plano, Texas, USA
⋯ I'm comfortable with modding the OEM speakers to fit the new ones :)
Like raj55, I would replace all OEM dual-cone door speakers in non-Bose system with 4 6" 2-way coaxial speakers and leave the OEM tweeters alone. This would be an easier mod with better sound.

OEM A-pillar tweeters (Bose) seem to be not doing anything from my short test-drive experience, and raj55 said the same thing on non-Bose. It could be the design that the bass blockers only allowing very high frequency sound where most of us can't hear. Many people commented OEM A-pillar Bose tweeters are very-well made although I'm not sure the tweeters on non-Bose are the same.

Mazda uses all kind of different speaker connectors. Your PC-fan connector shown is for gen-1 CX-5 non-Bose dash speakers, but if my memory serves me correctly, OEM door speaker connectors on gen-1 CX-5 are different and speaker itself is even riveted to speaker adaptor/gasket. In any event some just torn up OEM door speakers and re-use the adaptor, others custom-made new adaptor to fit the after-market door speaker. Based on raj55's experience on gen-2 CX-5, the modification work on OEM speaker adapter/gasket is still needed like gen-1 CX-5, hence you may consider getting extra OEM speaker adapters if available for modification if you don't want to modify the original.

As for under-seat compact sub-woofer, or OEM Bose 5" sub, I think squibcakes said the best:

⋯ I don't have compact sub. These subs sounded ok in the showroom with no engine running or road noise but even then, they still lacked warmth and tone that you can get from a properly tuned sub in a box..... I think a 10" sub minimum is required for a car of this size to be honest. It all comes down to how much space you want to sacrifice in your trunk.

03xDG5z_d.jpg
 
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CX-5 AWD, 2017
I think in the non Bose variant there is no base blocker. The original, door full range paper speaker supports that (because it is a full range and not just a woofer cone unlike the Bose model) and the tweeter is parallel connected to the front door speakers via a capacitor to release only the high frequency sound to the tweeter as seen in the photo above. It is a good looking lousy tweeter or it has a lousy designed butterworth first pass filter capacitor. I can not read the micro Farady value of that capacitor to check what the frequency cut off level is. Mazda has been thrashing these paper cones full range and the tweeters in all their cars with non Bose models for years. In the older ones they were made in Japan and now similar looking ones are made in China and Thailand. Very unimaginative of Mazda. Perhaps they have never listened to the sound in their own car (or they have a deaf guy in charge of the sound system).
I am for changing that tweeter. At best it will improve the sound. At worst, it will not contribute to any thing.

Here is a guy from a miata forum describing the replacement of tweeter (looks the same as ours!) and the change it brought about.

https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=616187
 
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yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
I think in the non Bose variant there is no base blocker. The original, door full range paper speaker supports that (because it is a full range and not just a woofer cone unlike the Bose model) and the tweeter is parallel connected to the front door speakers via a capacitor to release only the high frequency sound to the tweeter as seen in the photo above. It is a good looking lousy tweeter or it has a lousy designed butterworth first pass filter capacitor. I can not read the micro Farady value of that capacitor to check what the frequency cut off level is. Mazda has been thrashing these paper cones full range and the tweeters in all their cars with non Bose models for years. In the older ones they were made in Japan and now similar looking ones are made in China and Thailand. Very unimaginative of Mazda. Perhaps they have never listened to the sound in their own car (or they have a deaf guy in charge of the sound system).
I am for changing that tweeter. At best it will improve the sound. At worst, it will not contribute to any thing.

Here is a guy from a miata forum describing the replacement of tweeter (looks the same as ours!) and the change it brought about.

https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=616187
Yeah when I say "bass blocker" I mean "high-pass" capacitor used by most tweeter application. I can see there's no frequency-filtering for OEM full-range dual-cone door speakers. If I use 4 6" 2-way coaxial speakers which have 4 tweeters for door speaker replacement, although the location for high-frequency tweeter is too low for ideal, I wouldn't bother to replace OEM A-pillar tweeters unless I really want even stronger high notes.

Can you comment on door speaker adapter more for gen-2 CX-5? Are speakers riveted and can you save OEM speakers? How about speaker wire connectors? Any picture on these would be appreciated. :)
 
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CX-5 AWD, 2017
The oem speaker and the mount/adapter are one piece thing. You can not save the speaker and 're use the mount for your speaker change. If you tear off the old speaker and use the mount as adapter ring then you can use the original connector in the mount to connect your new speaker. Will send pictures tomorrow.
 
:
'18 Mazda 6 Signature
Like raj55, I would replace all OEM dual-cone door speakers in non-Bose system with 4 6" 2-way coaxial speakers and leave the OEM tweeters alone. This would be an easier mod with better sound.

OEM A-pillar tweeters (Bose) seem to be not doing anything from my short test-drive experience, and raj55 said the same thing on non-Bose. It could be the design that the bass blockers only allowing very high frequency sound where most of us can't hear. Many people commented OEM A-pillar Bose tweeters are very-well made although I'm not sure the tweeters on non-Bose are the same.

Mazda uses all kind of different speaker connectors. Your PC-fan connector shown is for gen-1 CX-5 non-Bose dash speakers, but if my memory serves me correctly, OEM door speaker connectors on gen-1 CX-5 are different and speaker itself is even riveted to speaker adaptor/gasket. In any event some just torn up OEM door speakers and re-use the adaptor, others custom-made new adaptor to fit the after-market door speaker. Based on raj55's experience on gen-2 CX-5, the modification work on OEM speaker adapter/gasket is still needed like gen-1 CX-5, hence you may consider getting extra OEM speaker adapters if available for modification if you don't want to modify the original.

As for under-seat compact sub-woofer, or OEM Bose 5" sub, I think squibcakes said the best:



03xDG5z_d.jpg

Appreciate your input but I'm well on my way.

OEM speaker in the door is a woofer, even if full range. It's just not a sub-woofer.

Agree that dropping in a coaxial and leaving the tweeter alone will be an easier mod, but dropping in a proper component set will no doubt sound better even on head unit power.

I've decided on my plan of attack:

Equipment:
- Polk DB6502 components in the front
- PAC AOEM-MAZ2 amp integration harness
- Kenwood KSC-SW11 under seat sub

Install:
- As long as the PAC works in the Gen2, I'll be placing that harness in line to the TAU. I'm betting its in the same or similar spot as previous models (but have not been able to confirm).
- Will mount the new Polk X-overs under / in the dash with the PAC. Chop into the PAC harness for speaker inputs from the TAU and outputs to the OEM wiring.
- Will sacrifice OEM woofer and cut-up to use as a mounting ring and for the harness connector as Raj did.
- Will abandon the OEM tweeter wiring and run new wires from A pillars to the new Pol X-overs.

This will get my gear installed without snipping or splicing a single OEM wire and will be 100% reversible if needed. Permanent mods will be to the A pillars (betting I'll have to cut to surface mount) and to the door speakers themselves, which will be destroyed.

Other benefit will be that I'll have RCA's for the sub instead of line-level inputs, and full ability to add further amplification if I'm not happy with how it sounds off the head unit.

I'm well-aware that the sub won't hit super deep or rattle windows. I'm not expecting or wanting that. What I am wanting is a little more than what the door speakers themselves can provide and be able to independently adjust the sound to my tastes (speakers vs sub adjustments).

Fingers crossed it all goes as planned.

Polk speakers are in my possession, when the PAC adapter arrives I can install them, then add the sub whenever it comes in.
 
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CX-5 AWD, 2017
OK I have finished changing the four door speakers (done earlier) and today the A pillar tweeters. I used The Hertz coaxial 165.3 for the front door (deeper speakers, bigger magnet and more low end, 40 Hz, 92dB ) and a pair of Hertz 170.3 coaxials for the rear doors (slightly smaller magnet , not as deep and slightly higher low end 50Hz , 92 dB). These speakers sound great, lot of base and detail but base being heavy in the Mazda all ready, it can overpower the treble and there fore the new A-pillar tweeters as well. Mazda's original tweeters were a total shame, never heard them in action with any music. When I removed the A pillar and checked the wiring I realised that the capacitors were connected to the negative wire ( yellow wire on the right tweeter and white and black wire on the left tweeter) from the amplifier! That was odd since all circuit diagrams on the tweeter in internet show that the tweeters capacitors are connected to the positive wire, so what is going on Mazda? More reading on the internet revealed that the capacitor can be connected to the positive (as usually done) or the negative wire (seldom done). The problem with that is that we do not know if they switched only the capacitor position or even the plus and minus wire switch to the tweeter by mistake, since there is no marking of plus or minus in the tweeter. The green wire on both sides in Mazda CX-5 2017, non Bose is the live/positive wire. I did not want to risk the mistake, so I connected the new Tweeter (TS 120 bought from china, ) with the capacitor side connected to the positive wire (positive wire, the green wire checked with voltmeter) and what a difference it made to the sound! Now suddenly the new tweeters are in action, all guitars and cymbals just jumping out with audio sound stage! The set up is brilliant, base, midrange are really good. Do not need subwoofer. The treble is gentle, not harsh at all and sound stage is worth dying for. Lot of detail in the music no matter what you throw at it. The original amplifier radio must be very good too since it can relay and amplify that sound. I and my wife spent clean 2 hours listening to different sorts of music (almost draining the battery! Got a C-Tek charger connected after the listening session). Never heard so much detail and involving music in any of my cars before (including a BMW with alpine system and xtra amplifier and subwoofer). This is magic and my wife is the blind experimental subject. She is thrilled. Who needs Bose? Sorry, I got carried away for a while! A word of caution, the tweeter replacement was the most difficult task of all!
A little advice for folk who want to change the tweeter, try switching the wires to the original tweeters (plus and minus wire switch) to see if they come out alive (I did not check that unfortunately). That may cure the disease of silent tweeters in these cars or not! The original tweeters are advertised as 1inch and that is a lie. They are smaller and a pain to change since the holder will not hold a one inch tweeter. I had to once more do lot of DIY to get an one inch to fit in that space, not for the faint hearted so if the original tweeters work with wire switching, use them instead.
The speakers are,
Front door, https://www.abt.com/product/68708/Hertz-Dieci-Coax-6.5-DSK-165.3-2-Way-Coaxial-System-DCX1653.html
Rear door, https://www.mobilesoundworks.com/product_p/hertz-dcx-170.3.htm

The tweeters are,
https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
 
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