Most likely the resistor. 4 bypasses the resistor and 1-3 go through it. Very easy to get to the resistor to check. (Under the glovebox.)
Perfect, thanks!
Most likely the resistor. 4 bypasses the resistor and 1-3 go through it. Very easy to get to the resistor to check. (Under the glovebox.)
I didn't pull it out and stick the multimeter on it yet today, since it's 130 in the garage during the day, but I drove around a lot and it was steady on 2 and 3. It turns off in between numbers on the way up but not on the way down. Yeah, my worry is that my new connectors aren't any better and I just pushed the problem downstream, but we'll see.
It is not oil, it is dielectric grease. It wasn't what was causing the bad connection. The problem comes from corrosion on the switch and if you didn't recover the switch terminals with grease they will corrode again very quickly.
The only permanent solution is adding a relay per these instructions.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123797885-Another-solution-to-A-C-compressor-problems-at-fan-speeds-2-and-3
The resistor pack is such a dumb waste of power. We've had pulse width modulators for several decades, but Mazda decided that turning electricity into heat was better for their bottom line.
Hello, unless I missed something, I dont believe I read this issue.
I have been having all the same flickering issues for some time now. My A/C only works on the Number 1 setting. After reading this thread, I pulled apart my console to pinch the connectors for a temporay fix. Upon disconnecting the switch form the connector, I revealed this. See attached Pic. Does any1 think it could be a problem with the Blower Motor Resistor. I read a little about this in other forums.
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Anyway wouldn't the resistors behind the radio thing allow them to get hot and fail prematurely? Just a thought.