So I want to buy an RX-7...

with the S5 omp what people normally do is remove it and block it off but bolt it to the firewall or somewhere so u can still leave the electrical pluged in..

as for premix.. just use something that says TCW3 I went to walmart..

.5oz per gallon if u have a working omp
1oz per gallon if u are ONLY premixing.
 
Well, the GXL is no longer on cars.com and I can't get a hold of the seller. Guess it sold :(

EDIT: Nope, not sold, add just expired. Man, I'm getting paranoid...
 
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*************** said:
ol... relax relax lol your making my side split here hahaha.
Click to expand...
Haha, I just really want this one to be 'the one' because there are literally no other S5 coupes in the country! Hell, I've already been laying my plans out. If I decide to stay N/A (most likely):

Intake
Full Exhaust
Street Port
Rtek ECU (2.0)
Electric Fan w/ Thermostat
Lightweight Flywheel
MSD Ignition
Water/Methanol Injection

Hopefully all that will be enough to get ~200 whp. Of course, doing a TII swap would open a world of possibilities but I'm not sure if I want to go that route. A 20B swap is always a pipe dream though (especially N/A)! So what's everyone's opinion on exhaust here? There seems to be conflicting philosophies between Racing Beat and everyone else. Racing Beat likes to keep their exhausts relatively small in diameter (2" for True Dual and 2.5-2" for single) whereas a lot of other companies go 80 mm and higher. Is this just because the other companies don't care about the N/A RX-7's or is exhaust velocity not as important with rotary engines. I've been debating if I want to go with a subtle look (TII front lip and sides with RB exhaust) or something a litle wilder (GP Sport or some other tastefull JDM kit and something like the Corksport or Apexi exhaust). With exhausts and sticking N/A I'm torn between the RB True Dual or something like CS header -> CS racepipe -> Apexi N1 exhaust (single or dual).
 
As far as dual exhausts go, I don't think it's really necessary, more of an aesthetic thing expecially if you're staying N/A. Probably a diff story if you go the 20b route tho. :D
 
Unless your going turbo those exhaust diameters are pretty right on and provide the proper exhaust velocity. You have to remember you only have 2 exhaust ports coming off the side of the engine and its a tiny engine as well.

If you have the cash flow hands down go with the rb true dual. With the combination you picked out with the cs stuff I hope you have ear plugs in the car. If you get a chance go into my build thread I have a video posted of the rb header, rb presilencer and cs 80mm catback with a muffler silencer....its stupid loud when you get on it., the idea with the dual exhaust is to quiet the car down but still have the flow.
 
^^^ That's exactly what I was trying to get at. It appears most of the exhausts out there are geared towards the TII guys. Another option would be the Apexi dual as the piping diameter is a little larger but still reasonable (60-65 mm). I just don't know how rediculous two 90 mm tips sticking out of the back would look. I'm still debating if I want to leave it modest or try to go like "full JDM" or something. With the GP Sports rear two 90 mm tips probably won't look too bad. Stock on the other hand, may look funny. Appearance-wise, right now I'm leaning toward TII front lip and sides, a good drop with some coilovers, 'modernized' tail lights and some 18x8/18x9 Enkei RPF1's (what can I say, I love these wheels). Tasteful?
 
I did the Racing Beat Road Race true dual exhaust on my N/A great package but I would NEVER buy the pre-silencer again..

You seem to want to tare the engine apart.. I thought it was going to be a daily...

With any exhaust once u do a street port the exhaust will get louder..

I do porting so let me know if u need help or want me to port it for you.. I have ported all my engines..

Go with a FIDANZA aluminum 7lb flywheel.. IMO its the best bang for the buck and don't listen to all the "negativity" if you know how to drive a car you will have no problems.. it is not hard to go up a hill, or any of that b.s.

Meth injection is what I am doing to my car too (well using alch) I can sell you the kit I have if u are interested since I wont be needing it for another year or more.

as for the thremostat use a MAZDA OEM or Nippon Japan thermostat.. no others.. As for the e-fan I used a 16"x2" 3600cfm fan on my car as a puller and NEVER had a problem with cooling.

Rtek.. I never used I did all of my n.a stuff on the stock computer and a SAFC (version 1)

No need to swap over the ignition the FC ignition is one of the best ignitions out there.. doing an MSD setup will only be a waste of money and u wont gain anything from it..
Same with the plugs and wires STOCK NGK OEM plugs and wires are the best.

intake there really is not much to do.. either cold air intake with the filter outside of the engine bay.. or an air box to keep the air filter from being heat soaked..

with the street port alone (if its done good and aggressive enough) u will prolly see 200hp

Here is my fc when it was stock minus the racing beat road race exhaust (with stock mufflers) and a cone air filter

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sCPA1eIbrM


Little more fun

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pq5pdiVk5_A&NR=1
 
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^^^ It's going to be a driver, but that doesn't mean I still don't get to have fun. I didn't think a mild street port would really kill the reliability? I've heard bad things about RB's presilencer, but I thought by getting the Road Race kit I would be avoiding that. Noise doesn't bother me too much - I've had the full CS kit on my P5 for years but I understand rotaries get REALLY loud so I'm trying to avoid obnoxious. As for the flywheel, yeah I understand completely. I've been running Fidanza's 7 lb flywheel on my P5 for two years and I never had a problem at all. Hell, I didn't even notice a difference in the drivability! When I mentioned the thermostat, I meant for the fan - so it knows when to kick on. I don't want to have it running constantly, especially considering the electrical gremlins these cars can have. I actually already have a methanol injection kit although it is intended for FI (it has a map sensor). However, looking at their website I can pick up a MAF controller (injects based on MAF output) for quite a bit cheaper than an entire system. I also though about going with the SAFC but I heard it cannot tune based on load. I also want to be able to adjust timing and take advantage of the methanol injection.

All-in-all, I'd be happy if I could get its power around where my P5 currently sits. Over all the RX-7 will be lighter, not to mention being proper-wheel-drive. Lately I've been looking at wheels. I want to stick with RPF1's but now I'm thinking 16x7 with 225/50 for the front and 16x8 with 245/45 for the rear. I could always go +1 and do 17x8 with 235/45 for the front and 17x9 with 255/40 for the rear but I don't think the power I'd make would ever warrant that size.

I'll have to check out your links when I get home.
 
Yeah the presilencer is not bad... its just a cheap piece that gets burned out very soon and then makes the exhaust louder.. so for less money u can buy two flanges and just weld some pipe in place of where the pre silencer would go..

The street port will not hinder driveability.. I just meant if you are buying a car to drive you will have some downtime in order to pull the engine completely apart to street port it then rebuild it and re-install..

when u rebuild it u will WANT to buy all Mazda OEM internal seals/springs and not reuse the ones that are in it.. and a complete tare down and parts replacement gets expensive..

I'll help u out on that end if you wish.. I have alot of oem parts I never used (like side seals, springs etc) and I can get u a bunch of them for a good deal.. I was keeping alot of them but honestly I have no plans to rebuild another motor anytime soon for myself...
 
I'm thinking something like this, but red and with TII front lip and sides and 16's, not 17's. Wheel specs are 17x8 +35 mm 225/45 F and 17x9 + 35mm 235/45 R. Anyone care to photoshop?

RX7_HKS.JPG
 
what do u mean by "turbo 2 front lip" they did not have a different lip then the n/a's the only difference was s4 front lip and s5 front lip (thats an s5 front lip)
 
Magnum what tii front lip are you talking about, iirc the tii runs the same bumper as the na
 
I've been looking at this picture from Mazdatrix:http://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/kfg/Lip4B.jpg. According to Mazdatrix it is an OEM part (not the CF replica) and comes painted. Also, based on this picture posted on RX7club: http://www.mazdamark.com/89bro26.jpg. I guess I just thought it was stock. Perhaps it was a factory option? They side skirts are different though, right?

EDIT: There's also this site that refers to them that way too: http://www.shop.retro-spec.net/cate...AA82FD8F8BC623D580.qscstrfrnt03?categoryId=11
 
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magnumP5 said:
I'm thinking something like this, but red and with TII front lip and sides and 16's, not 17's. Wheel specs are 17x8 +35 mm 225/45 F and 17x9 + 35mm 235/45 R. Anyone care to photoshop?

RX7_HKS.JPG
Click to expand...

that looks GOOD... thats one of the few cars that RPF1's look good on.. nice
 
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