drgnzadiel101
Member
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- 2002 mazda protege5
well when it comes to hondas wai take power away but add growl while a cai add hp and little growl. all depends n which motor though. my h22 responded well to a wai which i thought was shocking.
Slow 0 to 60 times- thoughts?
- Thread starter wildo
- Start date
well when it comes to hondas wai take power away but add growl while a cai add hp and little growl. all depends n which motor though. my h22 responded well to a wai which i thought was shocking.
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- 03' silver dx
Have you done the vtcs removal from the intake mani yet? I was told that not removing this after swapping the ecu will restrict airflow. I installed a header when I did this mod, but the car accels to higher rpms better than when I only had the ecu installed.
No, I didn't calibrate- I have no reason to think it's off. And I guarantee that I am not getting up to 80mph and thinking I'm going 60...
I shift very fast. I also have a short shifter (as noted in the OP) to help speed quick shifting. Redlining is not the best way about things as the power band flattens out (perhaps drops even?) near 5.5k. See the dyno graph on the first post of the MP3 ECU flash thread.
I've had this low power issue for several months, on multiple different brands
I don't know about these things, but have no reason to suspect them.
...Of course.
That's not something I have considered, but based on the exhaust note and overall throttle response- I am going to guess that's not an issue here. Good idea though. <-- this is the kind of thing I am looking for.
From the original post:
"The MP3 ECU knocked it down from 11.2 secs to 10.45 seconds"
...It was still very slow prior to the ecu change, so your questions are irrelevant. That said, yes, it pulls more consistently/smoothly and no I have not yet removed the vtcs.
martispeed
Member
- :
- 91 Rx7
Well how are you "launching"... What rpm? Any wheel spin? I mean not to come off as an ass but alot of times its driver error... just shifting fast doesnt make you quicker. Some ppl will understand what im trying to say.
Minimal wheel spin with moderate RPM. I've autocrossed the car a number of seasons, and understand how to launch it properly. I understand what you are trying to say.
Ugh... I was hoping for some mechanical advice here people...
RockerPro5
Member
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- Midnight Blue Protege 5
How many miles?
martispeed
Member
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- 91 Rx7
haha kinda dumb and off the wall but a stuck brake caliper???
RockerPro5
Member
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- Midnight Blue Protege 5
Nope, I was not considering the timing belt, was just curious.
drgnzadiel101
Member
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- 2002 mazda protege5
wouldnt a bad o2 cause the car to run lean or rich?
racerx43269
Member
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- 2002 mazda protege 5
your not the only one with this issue.. i have it too... check your vac lines.. your check engine light might be putting the ecu into limp mode... hondas do it too... get a o2 defouler or whatever its called and clear the ecu... that might be an issue... i went turbo and no more slotege lol... then i blew my motor and was at square 1...
A buddy of mine has a scanner. Since I just replaced the ECU, I decided I should scan it to ensure that the code was the p0421 - Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold that I thought it was. Turns out, it was not the p0421, but a p0140 - O2 Sensor, CKT No Activity, (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
I have read that the second O2 sensor only monitors if the cat is bad, (below threshold) but that it shouldn't have an effect on performance. If that's true, then this is not the problem... I searched around the forum, and it appears that a bad O2 sensor can certainly cause some issues such as this- but I couldn't find a definitive answer that this also applies to the 2nd sensor (as opposed to only the first sensor).
So can a bad 2nd O2 sensor cause slowness?
(If you don't know for a fact, then please just move along. Or sub, so that you will know in the future...)
I have read that the second O2 sensor only monitors if the cat is bad, (below threshold) but that it shouldn't have an effect on performance. If that's true, then this is not the problem... I searched around the forum, and it appears that a bad O2 sensor can certainly cause some issues such as this- but I couldn't find a definitive answer that this also applies to the 2nd sensor (as opposed to only the first sensor).
So can a bad 2nd O2 sensor cause slowness?
(If you don't know for a fact, then please just move along. Or sub, so that you will know in the future...)
BoostedPR5
Member
I would suspect the combination of mods is killing some power on it. You would need a dyno to tell you for sure, but seeing that everything else checks out that's where I would turn to. Have you seen any examples of how these mods react together hp/tq wise?
I don't know how much different it is for my car vs yours, but I only HAVE one o2 sensor...I'm boosted though.
I don't know how much different it is for my car vs yours, but I only HAVE one o2 sensor...I'm boosted though.
RockerPro5
Member
- :
- Midnight Blue Protege 5
For what it's worth, Mazda Canada posts the 0-100km/h time as 10.4s for the 2003 Protege 5 manual transmission.
www.mazda.ca has vehicle archives going back to 2003 (from the menu bar, point to Vehicles > Archives). Original owners manuals are also available in PDF (under Parts and Service > Owner Info > Owner's Manuals)
A portion of it below:
www.mazda.ca has vehicle archives going back to 2003 (from the menu bar, point to Vehicles > Archives). Original owners manuals are also available in PDF (under Parts and Service > Owner Info > Owner's Manuals)
A portion of it below:
Attachments
drgnzadiel101
Member
- :
- 2002 mazda protege5
i cant help you there. im pretty sure it would still cause the same effect though
Not to bust chops here... But as a rule - you always make sure the car is in top running shape (no faults or awaiting maintenance actions) before starting to mod.
Did you monitor fuel economy before/after? Great indication of engine health.
With your mods the car should feel 'quicker' (like mine does) than stock but i don't have any baseline measurements. I just know from driving the car after each mod.
You could estimate the performance using estimated horsepower gains versus weight against the stock estimated times at stock horespower.
I hope you get it figured out. Can you race a similar P5 to see how you fare?
Did you monitor fuel economy before/after? Great indication of engine health.
With your mods the car should feel 'quicker' (like mine does) than stock but i don't have any baseline measurements. I just know from driving the car after each mod.
You could estimate the performance using estimated horsepower gains versus weight against the stock estimated times at stock horespower.
I hope you get it figured out. Can you race a similar P5 to see how you fare?
I put it in a LONG time ago, but I did it because I was autocrossing, and wanted "the best" protection for the tranny. In my opinion, it was noticeable in shifting smoothness. I know others use Lucus products. Search around, I think I recall a couple threads on this debate.
As for me, yes, I would use Redline again.
STEP 1: Find a stretch of open road, or a long street with no traffic.
STEP 2: Bring your car up to about 20-25 miles per hour
STEP 3: Shift into 5th gear, or whatever the highest gear is that your car has. Yes, it's too soon to shift into high gear, but that's the point of the test--to stress the clutch.
STEP 4: Press the gas firmly, as if you were accelerating onto a freeway.
STEP 5: Observe! If the engine starts to rev free, as if it were in neutral, and/or your tachometer needle spins toward redline very quickly, your clutch is slipping.
STEP 6: Observe! But if the car slowly accelerates, even if it staggers, bucks and strains, then the clutch is okay!
ALso
Put the handbrake on.
Turn the engine on.
Depress the clutch pedal and put the transmission in fourth gear.
Slowly let up on the clutch while stepping on the gas pedal.
If you are able to completely release the clutch pedal without the engine stalling (or the car moving), your clutch is history.
STEP 2: Bring your car up to about 20-25 miles per hour
STEP 3: Shift into 5th gear, or whatever the highest gear is that your car has. Yes, it's too soon to shift into high gear, but that's the point of the test--to stress the clutch.
STEP 4: Press the gas firmly, as if you were accelerating onto a freeway.
STEP 5: Observe! If the engine starts to rev free, as if it were in neutral, and/or your tachometer needle spins toward redline very quickly, your clutch is slipping.
STEP 6: Observe! But if the car slowly accelerates, even if it staggers, bucks and strains, then the clutch is okay!
ALso
Put the handbrake on.
Turn the engine on.
Depress the clutch pedal and put the transmission in fourth gear.
Slowly let up on the clutch while stepping on the gas pedal.
If you are able to completely release the clutch pedal without the engine stalling (or the car moving), your clutch is history.
