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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
Well great. Oil analysis found evidence of coolant in the oil. Not what I wanted to find. I’ll post the actual report tomorrow.
SkyActiv Oil Analysis Thread
- Thread starter Kedis82ZE8
- Start date
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
Definitely not what I wanted to see. Just got the loan paid off last summer, too.
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- 18 Mazda CX5 AW
Saw another post that a forum member replaced head gasket and is changing oil like every 3000 miles to hopefully avoid engine damage.
What year do you have? Is it a turbo?
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
oh sorry I forgot I removed the vehicle info when I cropped the report. It's a 2014 CX-5 Touring, 2.5L NA engine. Manufactured January 2013.
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- Southwest Ohio
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- '19 CX-5 diesel
Bummer. So, now what to do with that information is the question eh?
Suck up another sample through the dipstick hole (without changing oil) in 1000 mi to see if the coolant is still present and just confirm there isn't some sampling or testing anomaly. Monitor radiator and coolant reservoir for signs of oil in there.
If the coolant in oil is confirmed, seems like all answers as to how it got there are expensive like head gasket, cracked head or block. Maybe time to trade in for an upgraded cx5?
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
I could not see any evidence of oil in the coolant visible under the radiator cap. And the used oil that came out looked like normal, dark colored used oil. There was nothing to raise any concerns of anything.
And yeah I’ve had blown head gaskets on other cars where coolant mixed with oil. It looked nasty. Not seeing that here.
Is there any sort of oil cooler where coolant could have mixed with oil? Any sort of sandwich plate with coolant lines near the oil filter? I haven’t looked around that close to see if the 2.5L NA Skyactiv engine has anything like that.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Sorry to hear that and that’s very unfortunate! I know it’s frustrating as you’ve spent too much time on preventive maintenance for your 2014 CX-5 for the purpose of prolonging the service life. All the efforts on time and money seem to be wasted now.
Looks like your 2.5L is just started having very minimum cooler leak of course it’ll be getting worse down the road. I agree with HyFlyer that If the coolant in oil is confirmed, it seems like all answers as to how it got there are expensive like head gasket, cracked head or block. I don’t believe there’s an oil cooler in between oil filter and the filter base on your 2.5L NA as I don’t remember there’s one when I’m changing the oil filter on my 2.5L NA.
Look at the brighter side, at least you know in advance your engine has major issue for longevity, you have plenty of time to plan ahead to sell it、trade it in、or repair it.
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
yeah and wondering if I should go with a different lab to check the next sample.
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- 18 Mazda CX5 AW
Yes. Try a different lab. Also see "2015 cX5 2.5 skyactiv coolant in engine thread"
Seems the Mazda engines explode just after year/mileage warranty is up.
There are probably alot more engine failures that we are not aware of because those people are out of warranty and don't visit forum sites.
My engines in my Ford's, Chevys and Toyotas, etc. all lasted approx. 12 to 14 years/ 200,000 miles and beyond. Most vehicle were sold or had frames fail and rust before the power train/drivetrain
Although the Mazda is fun to drive, if the cars are incurring heavy replacement costs before there due time, for me it makes more $$ sense to go back to Fords/Toyotas for keeper vehicles. Or if really want a Mazda, just lease them instead.
If my 2018 has engine failure before a 10 year / 180,000 mile timeframe, will definitely switch back to Ford/Toyota.
For now maybe you can just keep switching oil every 3000 miles like the other forum member did. If your frame is in really good shape then maybe consider an engine fix. If the frame is rusted bad then maybe save your cash and get a new car instead.
Seems the Mazda engines explode just after year/mileage warranty is up.
There are probably alot more engine failures that we are not aware of because those people are out of warranty and don't visit forum sites.
My engines in my Ford's, Chevys and Toyotas, etc. all lasted approx. 12 to 14 years/ 200,000 miles and beyond. Most vehicle were sold or had frames fail and rust before the power train/drivetrain
Although the Mazda is fun to drive, if the cars are incurring heavy replacement costs before there due time, for me it makes more $$ sense to go back to Fords/Toyotas for keeper vehicles. Or if really want a Mazda, just lease them instead.
If my 2018 has engine failure before a 10 year / 180,000 mile timeframe, will definitely switch back to Ford/Toyota.
For now maybe you can just keep switching oil every 3000 miles like the other forum member did. If your frame is in really good shape then maybe consider an engine fix. If the frame is rusted bad then maybe save your cash and get a new car instead.
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Looks like I'll be doing an OA a few times before my extended warranty is up. Wonder if the 3 piece block design is a consideration in the mix?
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It's more likely the head than the block, IF that's the problem. The highest likelihood is the HG.
Go ahead and try a different lab, Patrick. Every lab on the continent offers a better value than BSlabs, either because the numbers are more reliable, or the numbers are equally reliable but the price is lower.
Oil Analyzers, Inc. would be my choice of the labs that charge in that general price range, or LabOne or the local Caterpillar dealer for a bit lower price.
Go ahead and try a different lab, Patrick. Every lab on the continent offers a better value than BSlabs, either because the numbers are more reliable, or the numbers are equally reliable but the price is lower.
Oil Analyzers, Inc. would be my choice of the labs that charge in that general price range, or LabOne or the local Caterpillar dealer for a bit lower price.
Hi All,
Knocks on wood... No issues with my 2020 CX-9 so far, but with the bumper to bumper warranty up around the end of the year I just picked up a Blackstone labs oil sampling kit to test my oil. The diameter of the tube that came with my oil sampling pump fits inside the dipstick tube but bottoms out before it gets to the pan.
I've been getting the oil changed at the dealer to help maintain the paperwork trail while the car is under warranty. So hoping to do this without changing the oil. Any suggestions on a tube diameter that is narrow enough to reach the pan?
Thanks!
-Paul
Knocks on wood... No issues with my 2020 CX-9 so far, but with the bumper to bumper warranty up around the end of the year I just picked up a Blackstone labs oil sampling kit to test my oil. The diameter of the tube that came with my oil sampling pump fits inside the dipstick tube but bottoms out before it gets to the pan.
I've been getting the oil changed at the dealer to help maintain the paperwork trail while the car is under warranty. So hoping to do this without changing the oil. Any suggestions on a tube diameter that is narrow enough to reach the pan?
Thanks!
-Paul
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- 18 Mazda CX5 AW
If you cannot reach any oil, blackstone will send you a smaller tubing. Just contact them.
Also both hardware stores and some auto stores have all sizes of tubing... Ive bought very thin tubing for projects, etc.
just find something smaller than fridge lines.
I always DIY drain my oil...so
I'm not sure whats blocking your tubing. But hopefully thinner will work.
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- Southwest Ohio
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- '19 CX-5 diesel
I made my own hoopty vac sample system with some 1/4" o.d. line from home depot. Drilled 2 holes in the cap for the line (one to go down the dipstick tube with a mark to show the length of the dipstick and the other line for a vacuum source.)
I seem to recall when I made mine, the line fit nicely in the dipstick tube but would get hung up like you describe. I snipped a little angle cut on the end of the line so it was pointy and could collapse a bit going down the tube. Worked like a charm.
