Skipping a beat...spark plugs?

bumpin_p5

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2002.5 Mazda Protege5 SportAuto
As some of you may already know, I did boost my protege5. I put the NGK ZFR6F-11 Spark Plugs in them. I saw some where that they needed to be gapped at 0.032. I am only running 4psi boost. Is this a good gap, or should I change it. I am beginning to think I am misfiring. The idle is kinda irractic and sounds like it is skipping. You can hear it in the exhaust as well. What do you guys think?
 
I know this has to be a retarded ass question, but those round spark plug gappers.... whats the correct way to measure. you slide the plug around it and which side of the plug tip is used to measure?
 
Aight, pretend the black box is the tip and the black line is a marker for .032. Which picture depicts the correct usage of a gapper?
 

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Not positive but, I go until the leading edge lines up with the corresponding gap. any further and it's no longer as small as what you intended. So, with that said IMO pic 1 is the way to go.
 
The sparkplugs are not suppossed to be gapped. NGK stock number 3271's are pre-gapped. I use these plugs and am on my third set. My car sees boost from 6.9 up to 14 with the plugs. Never had a problem with idle or the plugs. Each time I changed the plugs they showed textbook signs of normal wear and nothing else.

But to answer your question, you slide the plug around until it reaches the desired mark. Crossing the mark means you've exceed your intended gap. That won't really matter as gap is suggested with a range, and most people gap right in the middle for starters.

The gap range on my Probe GT is .039 - .043. I set it at .041. There is no range on the MSP engine decal.
 
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Where exaxtly did .032 come from anyway?

The Mazdaspeed Protege Owner's Manual Addendum shows a range of
.028 - .031.
 
Pretty much every thread I could find about gapping spark plugs says to gap them at .032. I went and did it and I still have a weird idle and the car died on me at the intersection. hmmm.
 
What is your vacuum reading at idle when this is happening? The less expensive NGK's probably do not come pregapped, so setting the gap on those would be fine.

Might want to check all of your connections(intercooler pipes) and all vacuum lines if yours is lower than 20-22 vac at idle.
 
DAWIV said:
What is your vacuum reading at idle when this is happening? The less expensive NGK's probably do not come pregapped, so setting the gap on those would be fine.

Might want to check all of your connections(intercooler pipes) and all vacuum lines if yours is lower than 20-22 vac at idle.
Yeah I am lower than that. I am running my boost gauge and my fuel pressure reg, O2 clamp line off of one source, and wastegate and bov off another. This couldn't be the potential problem could it? I didn't have any tees big enough to fit in the brake booster line, other wise I would have used that as a source as well. I mean vacuum is vacuum right? It's all coming from the same place. I guess I need to eat some lunch and head out and try to find a vacuum leak, eh.
 
In most cases, vacuum readings of 18-22 is fine at idle. My MSP has always been 20-22 depending on whether or not the AC was on. If your less than 18, you've got a leak some where, which would explain your dipping idle and subsequent dying. At least that is the first area to rule out.

I suspect something is leaking or has become disconnected.
 
i run the NGK ZFR7F-11 plugs and originally they were pre-gapped at 0.044. I was looking in the manual and it suggest the gap to be 0.032 so i gapped it to that. i didn't really notice a huge change, so i just left it as that. my idle vacuum is 20 and when i'm driving around, it's anywhere from 20-22 when i let off the throttle.
 
DAWIV said:
In most cases, vacuum readings of 18-22 is fine at idle. My MSP has always been 20-22 depending on whether or not the AC was on. If your less than 18, you've got a leak some where, which would explain your dipping idle and subsequent dying. At least that is the first area to rule out.

I suspect something is leaking or has become disconnected.
I went out there and checked it out. I had no spray stuff to do it so I just put my fingers over connections until I heard a change in noise. I found one leak at a "line size changer" splice. Fixed it and it is running right at 19-20 inches. Seems to run better. I still get a sputter every now and then, but it is not near as bad. and it doesn't die. It boosts a little earlier now. Well, I guess that is it. I am boosted. It is drivable. And I hope to God I am not running lean. I haven't quite figured out the O2 clamp. But the Wideband is showing around 10.0-11.0 afr when I boost. It shows way lean when Idling, which is not possible, because the fuel pressure gauge is set at 38-39psi. I guess this thing will work out in time. I also am getting a turkey. I am running just an HKS BOV. Is this normal? Is that what peeps call compressor surge? Is there something not set right that is causing this? It does it when I boost only 2-3psi. When I get on it and hit close to 5psi it just blows off. no turkey. If you have any ideas or would like to help please feel free to input your wisdom. Thanks.
 
When I boosted mine, I originally had the wastegate and BOV running off the same line, and was having issues with something. It wasn't anything big and i don't specifically remeber what it was doing, but i do remember i seperated my wastegate and BOV lines for a reason. I'm running an HKS SSQV as well.....I don't get turkey because I'm running a standalone.

10:1 AFR's are extremely rich, do you have any ignition control? As long as you pull timing, 11.8:1 to 12.4:1 are safe AFR's. I tend to go towards the leaner side of that range because i've experienced some bogging when dipping into the 11's. But then again, i've been know to be a fairly agressive tuner...
 
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