Side Gaping Spark Plugs etc.

[dbMazda]

You can get more out of the car by side gaping the plugs.
( http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/plugsidegapping.html )
( http://www.angelfire.com/me4/dugbugwap/images/SplugMod.JPG )

I have used these in a 03 Protege DX.
I used ZFR6F-11 like that & the BKR6EK types
but the BKR6E-11 are the best and safe!

The spark goes to the ground as it is the closest before the piston! It will not hit the piston! That is why I don't use the ZFR plugs, just to make sure! So stock with mods!

The BKR5E-11 "5" heat range are too hot for my engine.

I would not use the iridium spark plugs etc.
A power line is not a small wire!
You need the volume of spark, not a 1mm spark to set
off the fuel!

Also worth it is to index the plugs.
Facing the intake where the fuel is the closest.

There are other options for poweryou can tie down
your ViCS & VTCS,
all wide open! It hisses massively! MadMax!
Sounds like a V8, kind of, not like a cow mooing!
And you get more in the mid, low end, high!

( http://home.dbdbdugbug.operaunite.com/photo_sharing/content/ALL PHOTOS/MAZDA-STUFF )

 

[Installshield 2]

This has been discussed countless times over the years...I really can't believe this is still around...theoretically, side gapping can be effective in very specific situations, but its such a marginal benefit it really truly 100% is...pointless...

also, i'm not trying to call you out, but there is a lot of misleading information in your post. How exactly are factory heat ranges 'too hot' for 'your' engine? A naturally aspirated Mazda FS 2.0L engine is doing nearly next to nothing in a power sense...The stock ECU runs so rich, i'm surprised a 5 is even the factory range. Check your plugs 5,000 miles from now, i guarantee you won't come back and continue to claim a 5 rated plug being too hot.

anyway...in relatively low power engine...side gapping hurts more than doing anything good. These cars run stupid rich in nearly all conditions...side burning a rich mixture creates a very weird burning kernel that will 'side load' the piston face...creating odd pressure gradients on specific sections of the piston faces...or worse, putting unneeded stress on the compression rings themselves. A proper front front for a daily driven long lasting engine will extend from the plug head UP to the valves first, just as the piston approaches TDC...the piston will actually bring the remaining mixture up and compressing it, which will burn up just as the explosion begins to push down on the piston...you want that even, and you want that to happen fast enough for the piston to not out accelerate the front (very common on short rod, bad rod ratio engines)

on a lightly modified FS engine...you'll never know if this technique was good or bad...the problem is the lack of ignition advance, and ridiculous amounts of fuel being pumped in (relative to engine output)...all culprits of the stock ECU...not anything to do with the plugs or how they light the fire...

lastly, i'll barely touch on the VICS and VTCS section of your post...as i'm not really sure what you are even saying.

VICS IS needed for a naturally aspirated FS engine...removing that will 100% hurt lowend torque, but have no effect on high end overall. If you are saying 'removing the system' by simply unplugging it...you're not doing anything but gutting torque...if you are saying remove it by getting inside the manifold, removing the butterflies, and plugging off all lines associated with it...you'll have a great manifold for a turbo charged FS...but still won't help an NA FS...at all...VTCS, yeah it needs taken out, but with the stock ecu its more trouble than what its worth...don't even bother with it until you're running an MP3 ecu flashed by spicyorangemsp (shameless plug for ken haha)...