Guide: Run your Mazdaspeed Protege on a Speeduino

Very interesting. What sensor trigger pattern are you using for the cams? I would love to use sequential injection
 
And I meant to reply to that other post, but the reason everything was being so unpredictable was actually my rasperry pi, I was using the TSDash and I switched to the regular piOS and it works great. Since I’ve actually just gotten a car pc with a monitor mounted to the dash and that’s been the best setup thus far.
 
Very interesting. What sensor trigger pattern are you using for the cams? I would love to use sequential injection
I swapped in a cam wheel from a 98-02 626 with the fsde, it has a single tooth cam pickup. I had one laying in the parts bin from one of my past engine swaps. you can also just grind two of the teeth off the stock cam wheel if you wanted and run single tooth.
 
I’ll check if I have any of those can sensors at work, I work at Napa. I’m definitely fighting some bigger issues with my car, I can’t get it to run right. It idles and starts perfectly but it won’t make any power. Making good boost and everything. It shakes around 2.5k rpm. It just doesn’t want to rev. Valve/spark timing and compression tested good, I don’t know where else to look, got any ideas? I think it could be my tune, my wideband sensor is going out and it’s just reading like 25 afr at idle and ~17 in boost, but I know how 17 would feel and it’s definitely not that lean. Any richer and it loses even more power and struggles harder.
 
Sorry I don’t mean to keep like hikacking this thread, but I guess this is much more on topic than my fuel gauge issue lol.
 
I’ll check if I have any of those can sensors at work, I work at Napa. I’m definitely fighting some bigger issues with my car, I can’t get it to run right. It idles and starts perfectly but it won’t make any power. Making good boost and everything. It shakes around 2.5k rpm. It just doesn’t want to rev. Valve/spark timing and compression tested good, I don’t know where else to look, got any ideas? I think it could be my tune, my wideband sensor is going out and it’s just reading like 25 afr at idle and ~17 in boost, but I know how 17 would feel and it’s definitely not that lean. Any richer and it loses even more power and struggles harder.
Definitely get the Wideband working properly first, It's going to be basically impossible to get your afr anywhere close without it. you can try loading up my stock tune. It was running great on stock injectors for me.
 
I’ll buy a new o2 sensor today and see if it fixes it, hopefully I’m not just running super lean and it’s the sensor but if it’s not I’m not sure how to richer it up, it just makes the problem worse the more fuel I add. I wonder if it’s an injector thing, like one cylinder can’t get enough fuel at higher rpms so it reads lean and misfires and adding more fuel only adds fuel to the cylinders that already have plenty of fuel. I’m really not sure. It’s just strange that the wideband is reading all weird at the same time that the engine runs weird. It’s a weird coincidence and I can’t imagine an engine would idle perfectly at 27 afr, that just gives me the feeling the wideband is screwed. A new sensor at Napa is $85 so I’ll give that a shot.
 
I’ll buy a new o2 sensor today and see if it fixes it, hopefully I’m not just running super lean and it’s the sensor but if it’s not I’m not sure how to richer it up, it just makes the problem worse the more fuel I add. I wonder if it’s an injector thing, like one cylinder can’t get enough fuel at higher rpms so it reads lean and misfires and adding more fuel only adds fuel to the cylinders that already have plenty of fuel. I’m really not sure. It’s just strange that the wideband is reading all weird at the same time that the engine runs weird. It’s a weird coincidence and I can’t imagine an engine would idle perfectly at 27 afr, that just gives me the feeling the wideband is screwed. A new sensor at Napa is $85 so I’ll give that a shot.
Sounds like you have a lot going on there, but from my experience with batch fire injection on the fsde is that it wouldn't idle happily anywhere above 14.2afr. What kind of Wideband do you have? Most widebands I've seen don't usually report anything above 22.5 afr since it's not within any reasonaable range
 
AEM x series it’s like a 30-0300 or something I don’t remember the exact model but I’m pretty sure it’s just 3s and 0s
 
New sensor, gauge still shows lean. Exhaust leak or bad gauge? I reused the manifold gasket but it hadn’t even run between the time I put it on and reused it. And it’s making plenty of boost. It reads lean even at high rpms where I can’t imagine an exhaust leak would affect the wideband because of the higher pressures. I can also feel the pulses coming out of the exhaust very strongly, almost stronger than I remember. I’m at a loss here, none of it adds up to making sense and now I guess I have two separate problems one being the wideband and two being the engine feeling like a boosted lawnmower and making barely enough to move the car around. Any ideas? Maybe I’ll make my own thread if I can’t figure it out..
 
New sensor, gauge still shows lean. Exhaust leak or bad gauge? I reused the manifold gasket but it hadn’t even run between the time I put it on and reused it. And it’s making plenty of boost. It reads lean even at high rpms where I can’t imagine an exhaust leak would affect the wideband because of the higher pressures. I can also feel the pulses coming out of the exhaust very strongly, almost stronger than I remember. I’m at a loss here, none of it adds up to making sense and now I guess I have two separate problems one being the wideband and two being the engine feeling like a boosted lawnmower and making barely enough to move the car around. Any ideas? Maybe I’ll make my own thread if I can’t figure it out..
I would reach out to AEM and have them check the calibration on that Wideband Gauge. Especially if it is idling 100% smooth. I would say maybe you have a bad injector but you usually won't have smooth idle.
 

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