DSMConvert
AWD...say Bye Bye
- :
- Titanium MS6
Ok I keep seeing this pop up all over the place(insert astriks here to cover forum name) and yet the only proof I seem to come across is " my boost gauge drops past 4K"....so lets start with the most obvious...more than likely the boost is dropping due to the suck ass exhaust, namely the dp that these cars have...they just can't flow the volume required to sustain 15psi at 5k...if the bov WAS leaking at 15psi then you would without a doubt hit fuel cut due to the extra air you'd be pulling in...even though you're gauge only says 13-15psi your ecu is attempting to compensate by allowing more air to be pulled through the maf, which plays a part in the ecu determining fuel cut...simple maf voltage relationship(i can type out the long explanation if needed for clarification)...anyways to the actual test..
Edit: The above paragraph was edited for clarity.
First off let me say that taking the stock intake off at the turbo is the biggest PITA i've ever had...easily took me 2hrs to take it apart without breaking anything...so I did a basic leak test that I do on all turbo cars...pressurized the system to 16 psi via a regulated air source and covered the bov with soapy water....came up with nada...went on to test both ends of the tanks and the connections to the turbo and the im...still nada....the bov actually didnt leak until I pressed it to 20psi, at which point I started getting a very low hissing sound out the recirc hole...drop rate @ 20psi was 2psi per second..
I'll be following this up with some actual logged runs to verify this under actual running conditions, but at this point I'm very confident that the bov is not the cause of this mysterious leaking some people are getting. Those that think/are getting leaking I'd suggest tightening clamps and the bov mount as this was a huge issue on the MSPs when they first came out.
As far as the 1g dsm bov swap...if you can find one cheap, sure go for it. To be honest I myself would probably feel more comfortable with a metal vs. plastic bov...BUT make sure you do it the correct way. CRUSHING IT IS NOT THE CORRECT WAY, the correct way is to drill and tap is for a secondary vac source. To see how to properly mod the 1g valve goto the link below and click on intake, then scroll down to bov mod...though it should be noted the stock bov for the 1gs will hold 15psi without a problem..my original 92 bov still holds 15psi without an issue over a decade later...
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html
And since I know someone is going to attempt to argue with me about crushed vs tapped, all I'm going to say is that I've been racing DSMs longer that most of you have had driver's licenses. So feel free to pm me with your arguement...if I feel you have a merited point I will update the thread accordingly, otherwise there is to be no arguing about it, start another thread for that, this is to help those who were wondering about the stock bov.
Edit: The above paragraph was edited for clarity.
First off let me say that taking the stock intake off at the turbo is the biggest PITA i've ever had...easily took me 2hrs to take it apart without breaking anything...so I did a basic leak test that I do on all turbo cars...pressurized the system to 16 psi via a regulated air source and covered the bov with soapy water....came up with nada...went on to test both ends of the tanks and the connections to the turbo and the im...still nada....the bov actually didnt leak until I pressed it to 20psi, at which point I started getting a very low hissing sound out the recirc hole...drop rate @ 20psi was 2psi per second..
I'll be following this up with some actual logged runs to verify this under actual running conditions, but at this point I'm very confident that the bov is not the cause of this mysterious leaking some people are getting. Those that think/are getting leaking I'd suggest tightening clamps and the bov mount as this was a huge issue on the MSPs when they first came out.
As far as the 1g dsm bov swap...if you can find one cheap, sure go for it. To be honest I myself would probably feel more comfortable with a metal vs. plastic bov...BUT make sure you do it the correct way. CRUSHING IT IS NOT THE CORRECT WAY, the correct way is to drill and tap is for a secondary vac source. To see how to properly mod the 1g valve goto the link below and click on intake, then scroll down to bov mod...though it should be noted the stock bov for the 1gs will hold 15psi without a problem..my original 92 bov still holds 15psi without an issue over a decade later...
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html
And since I know someone is going to attempt to argue with me about crushed vs tapped, all I'm going to say is that I've been racing DSMs longer that most of you have had driver's licenses. So feel free to pm me with your arguement...if I feel you have a merited point I will update the thread accordingly, otherwise there is to be no arguing about it, start another thread for that, this is to help those who were wondering about the stock bov.
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