Rotorworks Group Buy - **********.com
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*** FIRST THINGS FIRST ***
Is there a special tool to push the rear caliper back into the housing, i.e. spinning it in.
Mine will be going on in a few hours... hehehe!!!! Along with my AWR front motor mount.... and I'll get those pics of the LEDS ASAP... the tails will be in tomorrow and the LEDS will be here today.
Is there a special tool to push the rear caliper back into the housing, i.e. spinning it in.
Mine will be going on in a few hours... hehehe!!!! Along with my AWR front motor mount.... and I'll get those pics of the LEDS ASAP... the tails will be in tomorrow and the LEDS will be here today.
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sorry, let me reemphasize what I mean. Do you have to spin the rear piston back into the caliper. Like on Mustangs you have to spin the rear piston back in, it doesn't just push in like a normal front piston does. I don't want to pull it all apart and find out that I need something I don't have. Thanks.
yeah,
front is floating
rear is fixed
u need to turn the rear caliper for it to go in.
i just used a pair of needlenose pliers, turned it about 4 times.
MAIN THING!!!!
u have to align the caliper correctly.
(i didnt do it at first)
what i mean is:
the rear caliper has 2 slots.
these slots are for turning it, AND are there so the caliper clears the little bump on the brake pad that holds the metal cover.
(u'll know what i mean when u see it)
MAKE SURE U ALIGN IT CORRECTLY, otherwise u will get uneven pad wear.
front is floating
rear is fixed
u need to turn the rear caliper for it to go in.
i just used a pair of needlenose pliers, turned it about 4 times.
MAIN THING!!!!
u have to align the caliper correctly.
(i didnt do it at first)
what i mean is:
the rear caliper has 2 slots.
these slots are for turning it, AND are there so the caliper clears the little bump on the brake pad that holds the metal cover.
(u'll know what i mean when u see it)
MAKE SURE U ALIGN IT CORRECTLY, otherwise u will get uneven pad wear.
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pump the brakes hard like 10-15 times.
dont forget that for metallic pads heat is the cheese!
they have to warm up to "bite".
usually, in the mornings they feel a little soft.......but after 2- 3 times using the brakes they warm up.
dont forget that for metallic pads heat is the cheese!
they have to warm up to "bite".
usually, in the mornings they feel a little soft.......but after 2- 3 times using the brakes they warm up.
StreetUnit
Banned
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- 2003.5 MSP
More UPS Tracking #'s...
JULIO ALVARADO
TRACKING # K007 088 351 5
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JULIO ALVARADO
TRACKING # K007 088 351 5
BRIAN BATES
TRACKING # K007 088 352 4
LUIS A. MEDINA
TRACKING # K007 088 353 3
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I didn't open the reservoir, and compressing them couldn't have been simpler. About 3 turns on the C-clamp and it was compressed enough to slide over the rotor. I don't know how, but 48,000 miles on stock pads, and they had more than an 1/8" of pad left. The rear was more of a PITA then the fronts.mspdfreak said:
FrozenMazda
Member
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- 2003.5 Titanium Gray MSP #355
I heard that there's some sort of sequence that you should use to break in new rotors so you don't warp them (ie. a couple of brake runs from 60mph down to about 10mph and then do it two or three more times to get them broken in correctly). Is this true or is it more smoke?
I heard something along those lines as well...Not sure what the exact speeds and all were, but that's why I was hesitant on just slamming them on last night. I washed her and took her for a spin a little bit ago, and slammed the brakes, and it does feel like they are working better now.
Just got mine!! Thanks Cullen. Don't know why anyone would buy from another vendor. Who else puts in the time and effort getting things done for us that ********** has? And he carries the best parts too! Will be putting these on along with my Perrin exhaust and Turbohoses SMIC (when they get here).
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