Rotors

boandlkramer

US Specs in Europe
:
'17 CX-5 GT AWD; '18 BMW X3
Replaced all four Rotors a week ago on my wife's CX-5. (notcool) It's high mileage but still....all four at ~20k miles?

The good news? I'm closing the deal on a new Austin Yellow BMW M4 this week, all packages/options. (breakn)
 
Replaced all four Rotors a week ago on my wife's CX-5. (notcool) It's high mileage but still....all four at ~20k miles?

The good news? I'm closing the deal on a new Austin Yellow BMW M4 this week, all packages/options. (breakn)
Still have the same rotors on the cx5, rears were turned once with brakes at 30,000 miles. My 2011 BMW 328 got front brakes and rotors at 95,000 and still has the original rear brakes and rotors at 121,000 miles. Car has been flawless. Becareful with all the extra power going from the 328 to the M4!
 
I'd never take the hit on a new m4.

Agreed, however I'm OK with the hit I'll take for the peace of mind I get knowing that it's Not abused or had mods or maintenance issues

That said, 50k miles on my rotors, all g2g.

I don't understand what happened. is it the autobahn speeds? It developed a shimmy when braking...to the point that my wife was scared to take it on the autobahn.
 
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OMG, M4, very nice car. I like it, but can't afford it, I am saving for a Audi a4 or BMW 328i blue with some packages. Also, it seems very hard to find a good price for BMW cars, their packages all add up cost way too much money. It doesn't like Mazda car, lots things become standard, few packages and clear price limit.
 
Agreed, however I'm OK with the hit I'll take for the peace of mind I get knowing that it's Not abused or had mods or maintenance issues



I don't understand what happened. is it the autobahn speeds? It developed a shimmy when braking...to the point that my wife was scared to take it on the autobahn.

It was probably caused by improperly torqued lug nuts. The lug nuts hold the rotors in place so if some of them are too tight or too loose the rotor will have very slightly uneven braking force.

If you drive around with lug nuts that aren't perfectly torqued, after a while brake pad material will build up on some parts of the rotor more than other parts and the vibration will get worse over time.
 
I checked my rotors today after a couple of threads popped up about rotor problems. Here is what I found:

CX5rotor.JPG

There's 3 groves developing on my left rear rotor, outside face. One of them is deeper than the others and leaves what appear to be chatter marks. I only have 18K on a 2015 CX5 sport...

I have no braking issues except the occasional squeal every now and then.
 
I checked my rotors today after a couple of threads popped up about rotor problems. Here is what I found:

View attachment 214650

There's 3 groves developing on my left rear rotor, outside face. One of them is deeper than the others and leaves what appear to be chatter marks. I only have 18K on a 2015 CX5 sport...

I have no braking issues except the occasional squeal every now and then.


I have the same exact prob and side as yours. I took it to the dealer and the service person told me to bring it in before my 1 year is up to get it covered through warranty.

if you drive next to a tall wall and brake you can hear a rotational noise coming from the driver side rear. The tech noticed it and said the can cut the rotor (which will reduce the life) or just get it warrantied before the 1 year is up

Mine is a manual trans with barely 3k miles
 
Agreed, however I'm OK with the hit I'll take for the peace of mind I get knowing that it's Not abused or had mods or maintenance issues



I don't understand what happened. is it the autobahn speeds? It developed a shimmy when braking...to the point that my wife was scared to take it on the autobahn.

I used to think like you. I don't anymore, after owning both new, and pre-owned sports cars. Cars are a fickle thing. I had a 1995 Trans Am that was beat on like crazy and had 149k miles on it. The heater core went out at 160kish, and I sold it at 170kish. Other than that, TOTALLY FLAWLESS ownership experience.

My C6 Z06 arrived from Bowling Green with a cracked carbon fiber fender.

My 370Z had a grinding transmission and a power steering pump that literally sounded louder than some of the better supercharger installs I've heard.

I don't know how fast your section of the Autobahn is, as not all of it of course is unregulated, but my CX5 regular sees 80 as normal, 90 for a bit on occasion, sprints into the triple digits.

The point being, a loaded out M4 in America is close to $100k. Resale a year later is 50-70ish, IIRC, from when I priced such creatures. My Z06? I paid $67k new, and sold it a year later for $59k. If you're going to buy NEW NEW! Don't get something that dies like a dog in resale, and Benz/BMW certainly do, IMO.

Also, CPO cars in America have better warranty than new cars. I don't know what it's like in Germany.

Ultimately though, if you have the money to spend, hell with it! Your money, and your happiness!! Rock on!

As to your wife's rotors, I bet you noticed the issue soon after a tire rotation or similar. Some techs do not properly torque the lug nuts, and it warps the hats. My 370Z had issue after issue after issue with this. The result was sickening. These are Z1 slotted rotors w/Stoptech street pads, after...500 miles? Ruined. Thanks Nissan dealership.

 
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I checked my rotors today after a couple of threads popped up about rotor problems. Here is what I found:

View attachment 214650

There's 3 groves developing on my left rear rotor, outside face. One of them is deeper than the others and leaves what appear to be chatter marks. I only have 18K on a 2015 CX5 sport...

I have no braking issues except the occasional squeal every now and then.

Looks fine to me. Rotors are soft cast iron. Anything that embeds in the pad or gets between the pad and rotor is going to do that. Even if nothing does, they tend to groove over time. It's no stress.
 
I seem to recall that race car drivers use both feet...(boom05)

Yeah, Formula 1, but have you not see the foot-well? It's partially because there is no other place for that foot to go, and Formula 1 has absolutely NOTHING to do with driving a vehicle on public roads except maybe corner exit/entry/friction circle. I mean, you might as well compare hunting lions in Africa to chasing a cat off your porch. Or maybe the clutch-less shifting of a manual built for that kind of use on the drag strip, etc. It has no bearing on the problem at hand.
 
Seems like the CX-5 brakes do way better in warm climates than cold ones. Especially in snow. 55k miles with lots of brake pad left all 4 corners.
 
It was probably caused by improperly torqued lug nuts. The lug nuts hold the rotors in place so if some of them are too tight or too loose the rotor will have very slightly uneven braking force.

If you drive around with lug nuts that aren't perfectly torqued, after a while brake pad material will build up on some parts of the rotor more than other parts and the vibration will get worse over time.

Good to know, perhaps I should listen to the German mechanics when they say to come back before 100km and have the lugs torqued again after a tire rotation/exchange


I typed this up on my Smartphone using Tapatalk [emoji12]
 
I used to think like you. I don't anymore, after owning both new, and pre-owned sports cars. Cars are a fickle thing. I had a 1995 Trans Am that was beat on like crazy and had 149k miles on it. The heater core went out at 160kish, and I sold it at 170kish. Other than that, TOTALLY FLAWLESS ownership experience.

My C6 Z06 arrived from Bowling Green with a cracked carbon fiber fender.

My 370Z had a grinding transmission and a power steering pump that literally sounded louder than some of the better supercharger installs I've heard.

I don't know how fast your section of the Autobahn is, as not all of it of course is unregulated, but my CX5 regular sees 80 as normal, 90 for a bit on occasion, sprints into the triple digits.

The point being, a loaded out M4 in America is close to $100k. Resale a year later is 50-70ish, IIRC, from when I priced such creatures. My Z06? I paid $67k new, and sold it a year later for $59k. If you're going to buy NEW NEW! Don't get something that dies like a dog in resale, and Benz/BMW certainly do, IMO.

Also, CPO cars in America have better warranty than new cars. I don't know what it's like in Germany.

Ultimately though, if you have the money to spend, hell with it! Your money, and your happiness!! Rock on!

The section of autobahn near my house for a good 15 miles is unlimited. My wife's CX5 will hit 120 and sustain it. My 328 hit the limiter at 135. The M4....I can't wait, I get it his Friday.

This is likely my last big car purchase, I'm in a good place professionally and nothing lasts forever. Saving for the future is our primary concern. Right now We are enjoying living in Germany for a few more years. I'll likely be back in the US for the last year of the warranty.

As to your wife's rotors, I bet you noticed the issue soon after a tire rotation or similar. Some techs do not properly torque the lug nuts, and it warps the hats. My 370Z had issue after issue after issue with this. The result was sickening. These are Z1 slotted rotors w/Stoptech street pads, after...500 miles? Ruined. Thanks Nissan dealership.


Dang! I'm thinking We did it to ourselves. The German mechanics advise us to come back before 100km and have them retorque the lug nuts...we didn't.


I typed this up on my Smartphone using Tapatalk [emoji12]
 
The section of autobahn near my house for a good 15 miles is unlimited. My wife's CX5 will hit 120 and sustain it. My 328 hit the limiter at 135. The M4....I can't wait, I get it his Friday.

This is likely my last big car purchase, I'm in a good place professionally and nothing lasts forever. Saving for the future is our primary concern. Right now We are enjoying living in Germany for a few more years. I'll likely be back in the US for the last year of the warranty.



Dang! I'm thinking We did it to ourselves. The German mechanics advise us to come back before 100km and have them retorque the lug nuts...we didn't.


I typed this up on my Smartphone using Tapatalk [emoji12]

Not re-tqing will not cause this unless the lug nuts actually come truly loose. OVER-torque is what bends rotors/hats.
 
Not re-tqing will not cause this unless the lug nuts actually come truly loose. OVER-torque is what bends rotors/hats.

I'm certain they use those measured ratchets that ensures the proper poundage of torque.


I typed this up on my Smartphone using Tapatalk [emoji12]
 

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