Ricktalife's EPIC fails and maybe a build thread too

good stuff rick. also, you would really be better off with a 28rs at this point as someone mentioned... 10psi and youll have way more fun than 12+ with the 2554. i had no tune and my msp was a night and day difference between the 2554 and t3/t04e. mind you i put a few mods in there when i swapped turbos but still.
 
good stuff rick. also, you would really be better off with a 28rs at this point as someone mentioned... 10psi and youll have way more fun than 12+ with the 2554. i had no tune and my msp was a night and day difference between the 2554 and t3/t04e. mind you i put a few mods in there when i swapped turbos but still.

I agree a 28rs would be awesome, but who ever said I was going to run 12+ psi? Lol I think you confused my thread with another one. I'm still running stock block. :(

Why do you need a timing light?

I have the EMS-4 running in parallel with the factory ECU and it will have full control over the fuel and timing.
 
Received my fully wired EMS-4 with 3 bar map sensor in the mail today :D ...talk about a mile and a half of wiring LOL.
 
so what was the total cost for the aem-ems? and what is the downside for it vs the haeltech? is haeltech easyer to tune and cheaper because less time on dyno?
 
so what was the total cost for the aem-ems? and what is the downside for it vs the haeltech? is haeltech easyer to tune and cheaper because less time on dyno?

Well I spent more on this thing then I should have, but that's because I chose to have Sam wire it for me and originally I bought it with a mini harness instead of a full harness. If you wire it yourself and get the right parts the first time around, you can get the ECU + full harness and 3 bar map sensor for $1130 + shipping from crossover. Though if you are like me and don't want to destroy your factory harness, you can add $225 for an ECU extension harness. So as you can see, this is not exactly cheap.

IMO the only downside to the AEM vs. Haltech is the price. The EMS-4 offers the same functionality as the Haltech Sprint 500 and I think the AEM actually has larger map sizes, which allows for more precise tunes.
 
I see and if i get the sprint 500 do i still need the extension harness too? Also by the way are you using bigger fuel injectors for ur tune and upgraded fuel rail too? If so what size injectors and fpr too?
 
I see and if i get the sprint 500 do i still need the extension harness too? Also by the way are you using bigger fuel injectors for ur tune and upgraded fuel rail too? If so what size injectors and fpr too?

Using an extension harness is completely up to you. I bought it because I want the option to remove the standalone for state inspections and also I didn't want to destroy my factory harness. I have 440cc injectors sitting in my trunk but I'm not sure if I'll need them yet. I also bought a Perrin fuel rail, which isn't really necessary for my power goals but i got it for pretty cheap. I had an aftermarket FPR but I sold it because again I don't think it will be necessary.

Though I still have not installed the EMS because I'm trying to gather information so I can set up a calibration file with the proper settings. If I just plug it in and use a preset for a Miata or something, I could easily screw s*** up.
 
Thanks for the info. That sounds like a smart idea to get the extension harness than.i actually have a wrecked harness right now that im waiting on mazda to get me a new one. Its 1g for the harness alone so def a good call to get the extension and not wreck anything. I might just go with aem ems too just trying to find cheapest way to still be able to get a decent tune on my car. What are ur power goals anyway? Im gonna be going for 300-350whp and i was told i would need a fuel rail and atleast 565cc injectors plus fpr i think is just a good idea in order to protect the engine and have proper pressure for best afr
 
For 300+ whp yea I agree that you will want to go with the best of everything. I'm stock block and probably always will be unless the motor pops on me, so I'm just looking to get somewhere between 200-250whp once I get the 505 manifold and a solid tune.
 
Well I'm still searching for somebody to help me out with this EMS-4 that is sitting beside my computer desk. I've been talking to Sam and he informed me that AEM does not have a preset calibration file listed that would work with our car, so I'm trying to find somebody that can figure it out. All the dyno's remotely close to my house are ******* Honda specialists and I don't have time to let my car sit at a shop for weeks while they try and figure it out. Does anybody know a shop that has experience with Mazda's that is located somewhere in or near central PA? I've done several google searches but can't find any that are closer than Philly.
 
Dual gauge cluster pod... yes, please.

57.jpg
 
Picked up a short shifter the other day just to see what all the rage is about. Today I ordered a new Injen filter and a hydroshield to go with it. I'm also thinking about buying a new IAT sensor and having a bung welded onto the cold pipe so it screws in. I was browsing a writeup by Sam and he made a good point that having it measure the air coming from the filter is not the same temperature as what goes into the manifold, considering it goes through the turbo and then the intercooler. I want my tune to be as accurate as possible, so this should definitely help out.

Also noticed when I popped my hood today that the coolant overflow tank was nearly empty. I haven't seen any leaks lately, so I must be burning it. Would this be a symptom of a thermostat going bad? I've heard people have issues with them occasionally on our car, but I have no clue what to look for.
 
Yeah, my mazda overflow always seems to loose coolant. But it hasn't in a while since I relocated it. I really wouldn't worry about it. Because if it is leaking the only thing to do about it is change the head gasket and if it is driving fine there is no need to do that.
 
Got an AEM air temp sensor in the mail today. Now I can completely eliminate the factory MAF and IAT sensors when I hook up the EMS-4.

So I guess the only thing stopping me now is the fact that my car is leaking coolant... should probably fix that before worrying about the tune.
 
So I need a new radiator. Surprisingly they are still available through the dealer, so I'm just going to order from them since I don't want to deal with aftermarket fitment and I can get the OEM at dealership cost. Still gonna be just over $300 with tax though...

One of the causes for my leaky radiator seems to be the slims fans digging into it. Anybody know where I can get some sort of spacers to prevent this from happening again? I know one of them is a Spal, so I guess I will start checking their website.
 

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