I just glanced through some of the posts on here and just want to make a comment. I was one of the first to boost a protege, and have one of the few 100% completely working atx-mtx swaps. Ive turboed my ninja, 2 busa, built setups for 3 sr20 240's, and did a twin turbo setup on a gt500. Id say i know what im talking about.
A few comments since half the people on here don't know what they are talking about. "the recommended stuff to do 10 psi" is that a joke? 10 psi is nothing, a FM VC and and an RRFPR is more than enough for that. Pull timing? Do you want to make less power? Throw on a Water/Methanol kit and for less than $800 if you bought it all new, way less used and you've got a daily driver that will do way more than 10 psi, I did 15-20 all day on that setup originally with a dsm T25. Power? Prolly about 280ish no problem. Absolutely no need for an AEM unless you like to throw away money and like to always have to play with tuning.
My second setup I ran an Emanage, wrx 440's, a FM VC, snow water methanol injection and a T3/T4. Pulled no timing since it reduces power and no need with water methanol. Now i did forge that motor, and i ran 30 psi high on it untill a wrist pin broke, but that was later found to be put in wrong by the place that built my motor. Power? almost 500 at crank, and have dyno sheet
Up untill last week, and for the last 4-5 years, I run a jdm fsde motor, Stock compression, Emanage, wrx 440's, a FM VC, and snow water methanol injection. 15psi low 20psi high. Beat 99% of people on the road.
I started thinking the other day that I needed to simplify my setup since I'm giving it to my son, so i took out the emanage, VC, and 440's. Figured that since i push through my MAF (which is the only way to do it unless you like to dive lean when you pop off) it should account for the extra air being pushed in. Well, what do you know, with boost at around 10, peaking at 15 from the giant turbo, I never go lean, and it actually goes richer than id like, since with the water methanol I can keep timing and run leaner,and not so stupid rich like most people do that dont know how to tune.
Think of it like this. Here is what people that know enough to be dangerous will tell you.
*Reduce compression - So you make less power? "but you can boost more" so, keep compression and add less boost and make same power for about $1500 less.
*Pull timing - Again less power, "but youll have pre-detonation" not if you run premium gas, a colder plug and water methanol injection
*Run it richer under boost - Less power again "but if you run it lean or stoich it will burn up your pistions" Really? My non turboed wifes car runs stoich all day and no holes in them cylinders. You actually make the most power at the verge of being lean, stoich if you will is the optimum. So tune it right through the whole boost range, and again run water methanol, you will be fine.
I just dont get this mentality of taking a motor that had like 130hp, pull timing, lower compression, and run it rich so now you are starting with like 80-90 hp. My 2nd setup I had it setup the "safe" way that people told me to do at first and I had no power at all till boost came on. Mini vans would beat me off the line. lol
Just my $.02
