Ricktalife's EPIC fails and maybe a build thread too

it all makes a difference rick. -22-24 inhg means its almost certainly not your motor, thats stupidly good. almost too good.

Yea it seems to run a tad smoother with the stock heat range plugs back in, but I'm still getting a slight backfire when shifting from first to second. Can't tell if it's just the stock tune or what, but I have a bottle of seafoam that I need to use since I've never used any type of cleaner ever since I bought the car in 08. It was obviously sitting for years since I found it with 8900 miles, so I would bet there is some buildup. Maybe I'll take care of that tomorrow.

I'm starting to believe the valve cover gasket being trash since I can see small amounts of oil at several spots around the cover if I look closely. I just get a little nervous with this car since nearly every stock part I've removed has been trash.
 
Some goodies came in the mail today. A set of grills (top and bottom) in black wire mesh as well as an ECU extension harness. Now all I need is some money so I can pay a professional to install my new AEM unit lol. Why you ask? Well I've had my fill with soldering wires and I paid too much for this thing to risk screwing it up. So, I will shell out the cash to make it work right.

I really need to get some new intercooler piping. It saved me from cutting a bunch of stuff, but it is so long that I probably have double the lag that I should. Not to mention, it doesn't seem to fit all that well since I replaced the turbo. I'm told it was made to fit with a 28rs so that makes sense.
 
Rick, your more than 3hr away but I cold've installed that in hart beat.

BTW, does AEM-4 have turbo timer ? just wondering , what size maps does it uses (16 or 32) ?
 
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Rick, your more than 3hr away but I cold've installed that in hart beat.

BTW, does AEM-4 have turbo timer ? just wondering , what size maps does it uses (16 or 32) ?

Which part are you referring to with installation? I still don't have the AEM hooked up yet because I want to get a professional to help me with the wiring and at least a base tune for now.
 
Wiring ... thats installation part of it.

I'm looking at AEMTuner for now ... wish it had 32x32 size maps but its better than Haltech sprint 500 which uses 16x16 maps.

You plan on using stock sensors or ... ?
 
backfiring and exhaust popping are two VERY different things. id be willing to guess its exhaust popping from being on the stock tune.
 
Wiring ... thats installation part of it.

I'm looking at AEMTuner for now ... wish it had 32x32 size maps but its better than Haltech sprint 500 which uses 16x16 maps.

You plan on using stock sensors or ... ?

Yea I'm going to use the stock sensors. I'm not an expert on tuning and the AEMtuner software looks pretty intimidating, but I would love to learn more about it. I'm wondering if it can be used as a boost controller, because if so then I can just sell my Greddy Profec B for some extra cash.

backfiring and exhaust popping are two VERY different things. id be willing to guess its exhaust popping from being on the stock tune.

Good point, it is more like popping. I do have backfiring sometimes but it is very seldom. If it is simply the stock tune then that's great because it is an easy fix.
 
Well today I installed the bottom wire mesh grill but it kinda looks bad IMO. Not as clean as I had hoped and it doesn't cover the entire opening so I guess I'll have to buy a new stock replacement since the tabs on mine are broken. Or maybe I'll just cut the bumper tabs and such, considering it's already busted from the tire that decided to jump out in front of me on the highway. Instead of fixing it, I may just cover it up with a DG lip if I ever have some spare cash. Finally paid off my $1000 repair bill so I don't have to worry about that anymore.

In other news, I researched some local tuner shops in my area and didn't find any that I don't already know of. The shop closest to me is a Honda specialist and they are the one's that ****** up my 1st replacement steedspeed manifold with one of my ARP studs (which they never replaced). So I don't really want to go there anymore. I called another shop not too far away and they quoted me about $350 for a tune with no base map. I guess that's pretty average pricing, but I think I might just work on it myself for now. I think I can at least handle the air/fuel table and leave the timing alone for the a while. Once I feel I'm ready to up the boost to 9-10 psi again I will get a dyno tune.

So basically, I'm trashing the idea of paying a professional to install my EMS lol. I just don't feel like shelling out the cash for something that I can do if I take my time.
 
So I've been reading over these wiring diagrams for the EMS-4, and before I start cutting my extension harness I want to be sure I'm wiring it correctly. Correct me if I'm wrong, but since I am using the standalone to run as a piggyback with the factory ECU, I should probably just wire it similar to how the FIC was, right? I'm using all the stock sensors and such, but I'm wondering about the injectors for instance. There are 4 spots at the terminal end, 1 for each injector. So I suppose instead of cutting the ECU harness, I should just tap into it? Though intercepting the signal would be more efficient, right?
 
I have exhaust popping even tho I'm not on a stock tune. I think its just the nature of the beast with these cars.
 
Talked to a reputable local tuner shop that is AEM certified. They should get back to me with some ideas by the middle of next week. If they can hook me up for a decent price I'm definitely handing it over. The idea of piggybacking this unit would be too much custom fabrication so I'm gonna see what they suggest for passing inspections.
 
you have the patch harness, wire everything into that, then when you need to do inspections, switch back to the oem ecu. as long as you're on stock sensors you should be fine.
 
you have the patch harness, wire everything into that, then when you need to do inspections, switch back to the oem ecu. as long as you're on stock sensors you should be fine.

Yea that's what I was thinking. I'm very glad I bought it.
 
Running EMS-4 as piggy back would be a waist IMO , you have the harness so why not use it properly .. otherwise F/IC would've been great as piggy back.

I'm leaning toward EMS-4 vs Sprint 500 myself as well.
 
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Purchased some wrx 440cc injectors today in preparation for my 505 manifold and full standalone :) cause I needs moar powaaaa.
 
How is he going to switch back to the stock PCM with 440cc injectors? I guess it will run poorly, but it probably won't pass emissions. I would think he would need to swap injectors as well, but I guess that's not too big a deal.

My suggestion is to keep the PCM in the car for OBDII compliance and so that your gauges work. I think people get too caught up in the words piggyback and standalone. Use the EMS-4 for fuel and spark without input from the inadequate PCM and if tuned correctly and you still have cats, you shouldn't have a problem passing emissions in any state.

I think I've decided to go the cheaper but more technical route of the poorly named MegaSquirt world. We'll see how it goes, but my goals are modest. I just want a car that goes when I put my foot down, consistently, without exception.
 
Yea I didn't think about the injectors... though I can just keep the stockers on hand. I'm still waiting for the shop to get back to me with an answer so we will see what happens.
 
yes - just swap the injectors back in. and theyre right rick, again, youve got the patch harness, just wire everything over to the standalone but leave the gauges and optionally obd. you can probably get the gauges to work but from what ive read its more of a pain than its worth.
 
Just purchased some used Ksport coilovers from Kamon :) ..yea I'm not playin around anymore lol

Like new Eibach springs will be up for sale shortly.
 

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