Ricktalife's EPIC fails and maybe a build thread too

Well I unhooked the ECU and battery for about 15 minutes, then reinstalled everything and let it idle for about 10 minutes or so, but to no avail. I did notice however on a drive I just took that my ABS light cleared again (woohoo). Let's see how long that takes to come back lol. I noticed when the idle dips almost to the point of stalling that the vacuum drops too. Maybe I have a boost leak somewhere? I'm not sure what to do now..
 
the vac is dropping because the engine is nearly stopping, so thats an effect, not a cause. guess you have more hunting to do... rechecking your couplers and clamps definitely won't hurt either though.
 
I hope it is that simple. Also, I'm starting to wonder if maybe I get a little turkey when running BOV only because the BOV needs cleaned or something? I think there was a how-to on here somewhere so I may fiddle with that.
 
I get turkey if I'm releasing low boost levels. its really not a concern... it looks like yours is a V1 valve? I used to have that and it fluttered a lot no matter how I adjusted it, so I moved to the newer non-adjustable version.
 
I know it is a really old valve, probably V1 cause I bought the FMIC kit from Kicker who ran it years back. Is it simple to swap in a new one since I already have the flange?
 
Installed the HKS V3 tonight, but I'm still getting turkey and I still can't find the boost leak...this is pissing me off.
 
I get turkey if I'm releasing low boost levels. its really not a concern... it looks like yours is a V1 valve? I used to have that and it fluttered a lot no matter how I adjusted it, so I moved to the newer non-adjustable version.
the HKS only came in black for the V2 and V3, i believe. if theres a nut on the back, its a V1. you cant tell from the pics.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HKS-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

How about this one? Does the black edition suck hence the cheap price or just cheap cause...it's ebay?
that is definitely fake, but at least they tried pretty hard. dont buy one without pics of the box, just a word of advice.

Installed the HKS V3 tonight, but I'm still getting turkey and I still can't find the boost leak...this is pissing me off.
i dont think its a boost leak. youre on a relocated MAF, so unless youre leaking between the MAF and the TB, it wouldnt cause your issues. its not a vac leak since your vac is normal. your MAF distance is pretty standard too, i dont have that issue.
start with obvious things - are you throwing a CEL? have your AFR's changed when not at idle? have you tried switching off the SSAFC to be positive its something in the engine and not in the software/tune? and if all of that checks out, try cleaning the MAF. EGR would be the next step.
 
i dont think its a boost leak. youre on a relocated MAF, so unless youre leaking between the MAF and the TB, it wouldnt cause your issues. its not a vac leak since your vac is normal. your MAF distance is pretty standard too, i dont have that issue.
start with obvious things - are you throwing a CEL? have your AFR's changed when not at idle? have you tried switching off the SSAFC to be positive its something in the engine and not in the software/tune? and if all of that checks out, try cleaning the MAF. EGR would be the next step.

No CEL, but I have been fooling with the tune to try and reset things. I'll try to find some MAF cleaner and I was thinking of the EGR as well. Thanks.
 
picture of current setup and my new BOV:

p_00010.jpg

p_00012.jpg
 
Bought some MAF cleaner at autozone and sprayed it down, but the idle is still lean. Oh and I threw a CEL when I changed back to the superstockmap...hooray.
 
well I'm not going to hack up my wiring, but I was thinking maybe loading a blank map with every cell containing 10? I would change the output settings and whatnot but on the fuel map just leave it untouched, anybody tried that before?
 
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