If you own a honda you can bounce it freely off the rev limiter because the motors are built strong. When I race my civic I rutinely hit the red line and some times the rev limiter. Bouncing it in the middle of a run is a waste since it ruins the smootheness of the run because the engine is starved for a split second, kinda like a miss shift. I don't know about the mazda motor as far as streangth compared to a honda motor but I'm sure its designed strong enough to handle a few redlines and rev limits. Just don't go from 3rd gear at 6,000 rpms to 2nd gear, your gonna break something no matter what motor is in the car. Bottom line....if the car's not acting up its ok.
revving high (6700 rpm's)
- Thread starter cervy
- Start date
Re: Re: revving high (6700 rpm's)
what's so pointless about it? if you short shift, you WILL fall off the powerband at the next higher gear. It has been proven many times that it is mathematically faster if you shift at redline so that you will still be in the powerband after you shift
what's so pointless about it? if you short shift, you WILL fall off the powerband at the next higher gear. It has been proven many times that it is mathematically faster if you shift at redline so that you will still be in the powerband after you shift
cbcbd said:
Re: Re: Re: revving high (6700 rpm's)
Couldn't have said it better myself. There's nothing funnier than seeing an engine fall flat on its feet from a driver who is short shifting it. Once you fall off the powerband it's all over....especially if you don't have a turbo as a saving grace.
TheMAN said:
Couldn't have said it better myself. There's nothing funnier than seeing an engine fall flat on its feet from a driver who is short shifting it. Once you fall off the powerband it's all over....especially if you don't have a turbo as a saving grace.
Thats what practice and track time is for......Learning where your car is strong and where the power band is. If your good and you practice, you can feel the car and where the power is through the shifts so as not to short shift. I've done that too many times when I first started autocrossing... talk about embarrasing.
well this might not be related but what i feared most (breaking something) im afraid might be true. for teh last 2 nights since...everytime i shutoff my car ive been hearing this strange noise like pressure being released or like electricity...not exactly sure how to describe the sound...but nevertheless it appears a few seconds after i shut off teh engine...=( this wasnt happening before...im scured...
also everytime i turn on my defrost now...yes only defrost not anything else...there is a loud clicking coming from the engine bay...im not any sort of expert but i do know that my car isnt suppposed to do that?
also everytime i turn on my defrost now...yes only defrost not anything else...there is a loud clicking coming from the engine bay...im not any sort of expert but i do know that my car isnt suppposed to do that?
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Midnight22
Member
- :
- '03 Mazda Protege5, 94 Jeep Wrangler
Re: Re: revving high (6700 rpm's)
o damn... o well, im a high revvin SOB
perfworks said:
o damn... o well, im a high revvin SOB
My method of shifting and why
Rev 4000k
let out clutch
1-2 5000k
Engage clutch rev to 6000k while shifting (save time)
raising rpms higher to bring you closer to peak hp in 2nd.
(release clutch at 6k and not higher because you will spin your tires alot)
2-3 5000k
Engage clutch rev to 7300k while shifting (save time)
Once you are in 3rd you should be at peak torque and torque moves things (ive jumped car lengths by doing this).
ahh this is p5 section ;p
well the car i drove was an mp3 so you guys figure it out lol lemme no if it worx for u
Rev 4000k
let out clutch
1-2 5000k
Engage clutch rev to 6000k while shifting (save time)
raising rpms higher to bring you closer to peak hp in 2nd.
(release clutch at 6k and not higher because you will spin your tires alot)
2-3 5000k
Engage clutch rev to 7300k while shifting (save time)
Once you are in 3rd you should be at peak torque and torque moves things (ive jumped car lengths by doing this).
ahh this is p5 section ;p
well the car i drove was an mp3 so you guys figure it out lol lemme no if it worx for u
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twilightprotege
Member
- :
- 2001 323 Astina SP20 (P5)
the only way to get the best shift point is by doing two things. getting your car dyno'd, then calculating the gear ratios and how far you'll drop in rpm.
so if from 1st to 2nd you are going to drop 2000rpm, you need to find a point on the dyno graph where you'll be loosing the least amount of power AND TORQUE. both hp and torque are important as they are directly related to each other. it could be correct that you shift at 6250rpm or whatever, but that's the only true way to calculate when to shift. there are no other ways to calculate it.
so if from 1st to 2nd you are going to drop 2000rpm, you need to find a point on the dyno graph where you'll be loosing the least amount of power AND TORQUE. both hp and torque are important as they are directly related to each other. it could be correct that you shift at 6250rpm or whatever, but that's the only true way to calculate when to shift. there are no other ways to calculate it.
quite a waste of time... the protege's gear ratios are well matched from the factory and if redlined on each gear, the revs drops to 4700-4800rpm at the next gear
on a STOCK FS, the torque peaks out at 4000rpm... and the power at 4000rpm is no where near the same amount of power as power at redline... so IF short shifted, you will land at 4000rpm or less after you shift... need I explain more?
on a STOCK FS, the torque peaks out at 4000rpm... and the power at 4000rpm is no where near the same amount of power as power at redline... so IF short shifted, you will land at 4000rpm or less after you shift... need I explain more?
twilightprotege
Member
- :
- 2001 323 Astina SP20 (P5)
i totally agree for a stock engine. redline is the only place to change gears.
