Replacing a caliper...

[DooMer_MP3]

So for almost a year now, my car has been making this popping noise when braking, usually when coming to a stop. I replaced the rotors which has a lot of rust on them where the pad doesn't contact it, and had formed a bunch of rust ridges, replaced the pads, replaced the slide boots and greased everything up real well. Went away for a few weeks, until I noticed what the real problem likely is. I've had a tear in my caliper piston's boot for who knows how long. I'm pretty sure the last component to replace here is the caliper, so I'm going to do that... Couple of questions:

1) Should I get a used caliper from car-parts.com? I've seen them go for $25-$75 dollars for 2002 or 2003 calipers. I've also seen re-manufactured ones for $58 + $30 core charge, but I'm not sure if they use non-OEM parts for these and just reuse/rebuild the piston. What would you suggest?

2) If I replace one caliper, all I really need to do is disconnect the line from the caliper itself, right? What kind of tools are necessary for disconnecting/reconnecting the line?

3) When replacing *one* caliper, do you need to bleed *every* brakeline? I plan on purchasing some Stainless Speed Bleeders, so I'd like to know how many to order.

4) What would be the proper procedure for using the Speed Bleeders? Replace caliper, add a little fluid for the stuff that will leak out, and then follow Speed Bleeders directions? Does simply opening the fill cap get air in the system?

Thanks! (ughdance)

 

[Revs]

www.rockauto.com is where I got my new calipers, they were the cheapest. All you do is take the brake line off the old one and put the new one on. Bleed that caliper until the air is done and your done, no need to touch the other calipers. I would check the other caliper to see if its in bad shape or not cause its its close to seizing you might have braking problems where the new side stops well, but the other doesn't.

 

[DooMer_MP3]

Ok, I looked on rockauto. They seem to all be linked into the same catalog or something and all just have differently branded websites because they have the same parts/prices as a differnt place I found. Anyhow, I see they have two brands. Raybestos and A-1CARDONE. Did you get one of these? What do they look like? Are they just remanufactured OEM? Or do they look completely different from the OEM ones? Thanks for your reply!

 

[gjmoreo]

sub-scribble

 

[Revs]

I got Raybestos front and a1 cardone rear, all were remaned.

 

[DooMer_MP3]

Thanks a lot for clearing everything up. I guess my final questions are:

1) What kind of tool is needed for disconnecting/reconnecting the brake line from the caliper? Just a metric wrench? Flare wrench?

2) Did you send back your old caliper? Or keep it around in case you decide to rebuild it yourself?

I appreciate this all. Seems like a very easy job!

 

[AznXstazy]

BIG BRAKE UPGRADE!!! lol, u really need im pretty sure its a 17mm on the 2 bolts for the caliper on the back. to disconnect the line i think its a 12mm? wrench... not sure though. try calling around to local auto store like autozone n pepboys etc. sometimes they're pretty cheap. dont forget to bleed the brakes!

 

[Revs]

yes i returned the core.

 

[02p5]

I have a extra set of OEM front calipers painted glossy black with G2 ( you can paint over it a differnt color) from my 2002 protege5 from a front brake upgrade, PM me if you need it. Rather sell both, thanks.

 

[cbcbd]

All my four calipers now are calipers that I got used from junkyards I found with car-part.com.

My two front calipers seized (ripped dust boots), my back right had a stripped bolt, I changed the back left for good measure...

Very easy to take off break line, just take off the banjo bolt that holds it on there - 10mm? And make sure not to lose the black washer on the end of the connection.

 

[gone_fishin]

To get the caliper off you'll need a metric socket wrench.

The caliper itself is bolted to the forwardmost steering knuckle of the spindle (by 2 bolts I believe-- possibly 13mm). After you unseat the caliper from the rotor you'll see a bolt on the back of the caliper that is the connection for the brakeline (it's a smaller bolt, maybe like 10mm-- it's called a banjo bolt because it looks like a banjo). Have a drain pan underneath the caliper to catch the brake fluid. Loosen the banjo bolt and allow the fluid to drain. If you're just draining there is no need to do the same on the other side. If you're flushing the system, do the same on the other side and then flush the system. Replace the caliper with the new one. Reconnect by reversing the above instructions. After things are tight, add the appropriate ammount of brake fluid. Get back in the car without starting it, pump the brakes a few times, then start the car and continue pumping the brakes until the normal pedal feel is restored.

A word of advice, when you remove the banjo bolt from the caliper, take a clean small bit of hosing (the diameter of the bolt) and put it through to prevent debris and/or rust/brake dust from entering the lines.

Hope that helps.