Removing the FS-DE Engine, need some help..!

[Terra]

Hi there,

I have a 2001 Mazda SP20, or Protg5 I believe it is called in other countries.

Recently the car shot a piston through the block, big hole around the size of a tennis ball. So being a fairly mechanical person, having worked on lot's of V8's in my youth and the Mrs problematic VW Golf tranny issues more recently I brought an engine second hand and decided to get to work.

Given the transmission was in good order I decided to simply remove the engine, save lots of hassle... yeah right..

So I have got the exhaust manifold, intake manifold and all the surrounding cabling, alternator, AC etc. away from the engine, basically ready for me to pull up and out. Now I am at the coal face with a couple of engine mounts, a few tranny / engine bolts and the flywheel to torque converter bolts accessed behind the starter motor.

The issue I am now facing is that the engine is actually seized, I guess Chernobyl in barrel #4 was a big melt down.. well I am sure it was as there's bits of conrod and crap everywhere. The obvious issue here being that I need to rotate the crankshaft to remove the flywheel / torque converter nuts - which I can't do!

My ideas were:

* Try and remove the sump and drop the big ends from the crankshaft - didn't work because I can't take the base from the engine without being inside the tranny.

* Remove the camshafts, hope that that might loosen things up - didn't work.

So they only other ideas I have are (in order of preference):

* Try and remove the engine with the torque converter attached to the flywheel - does anyone know if this would work without removing the transmission from the car?

* Use oxyacetylene torch to cut the box from the engine - seems a bit extreme, I guess it could work.

* Remove the engine and transmission in one piece from the car and then pull the engine and flywheel in one piece - I really don't want to pull the box out if I can avoid it.


Does anyone have any bright ideas???????????


Thanks,

Terra

 

[jonathan62019]

Pull it all together. Just need to do the motor mounts and drop exhaust. Unplug everything. Pull axles and it pops right out.

 

[Terra]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking will be the easiest approach, should have just pulled the lot in the first place. Exhaust is already off down to middle of the car (it's an aftermarket one). So really it's just gonna be unplug whatever is in connected to the transmission and remove the mounts. Looking at the new engine it would appear that even if I slip the engine and torque converter away from the trans I should then be able to access the nuts on the flywheel side to get the torque converter off.

Do I need any special tooling to get the axles out, spline tools or anything like that or is it all pretty standard?

 

[MrGiggles]

Hi there,

I have a 2001 Mazda SP20, or Protg5 I believe it is called in other countries.

Recently the car shot a piston through the block, big hole around the size of a tennis ball. So being a fairly mechanical person, having worked on lot's of V8's in my youth and the Mrs problematic VW Golf tranny issues more recently I brought an engine second hand and decided to get to work.

Given the transmission was in good order I decided to simply remove the engine, save lots of hassle... yeah right..

So I have got the exhaust manifold, intake manifold and all the surrounding cabling, alternator, AC etc. away from the engine, basically ready for me to pull up and out. Now I am at the coal face with a couple of engine mounts, a few tranny / engine bolts and the flywheel to torque converter bolts accessed behind the starter motor.

The issue I am now facing is that the engine is actually seized, I guess Chernobyl in barrel #4 was a big melt down.. well I am sure it was as there's bits of conrod and crap everywhere. The obvious issue here being that I need to rotate the crankshaft to remove the flywheel / torque converter nuts - which I can't do!

My ideas were:

* Try and remove the sump and drop the big ends from the crankshaft - didn't work because I can't take the base from the engine without being inside the tranny.

* Remove the camshafts, hope that that might loosen things up - didn't work.

So they only other ideas I have are (in order of preference):

* Try and remove the engine with the torque converter attached to the flywheel - does anyone know if this would work without removing the transmission from the car?

* Use oxyacetylene torch to cut the box from the engine - seems a bit extreme, I guess it could work.

* Remove the engine and transmission in one piece from the car and then pull the engine and flywheel in one piece - I really don't want to pull the box out if I can avoid it.


Does anyone have any bright ideas???????????


Thanks,

Terra

This is your best option. Just one more axle to pop out, a few wires, and the shift linkage.

There is not enough room to pull the torque converter out of the trans with it still in the car. The input shaft requires a good 6 inches of space to clear, and the torque converter adds 3 or 4 inches to the flywheel.

Once you have them both split on the bench, very carefully put the converter back in the trans. There are flats on the torque converter snout that engage the transmission pump. If it's not installed correctly, you will have no forward or reverse, and it will damage the pump and possibly the converter.

Once the engine and trans are mated, the torque converter should be able to slide in and out a little bit and spin freely. If it doesn't, something isn't right.

I've seen a couple threads pop up on here asking about no forward or reverse after a transmission swap, both times it was due to the converter being installed improperly.

 

[jonathan62019]

No special tool just a big nut on each side.