Removing oil pan

[MDeJ10]

Im trying to remove the oil pan on my 03 MSP to get to the crankshaft and there is a piece connected to the transmission that sits between the oil pan and where the crank an other engine components sit...can anyone tell me how to remove (not the pan itself) the piece sitting in between the pan and engine internals. Also can I get to the crank whilst having the engine still in the chasis?

Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[Ravioli427]

Not exactly sure where your talking but I will tell you that you cant just remove the steel oil pan. Your access will still be blocked by the aluminum secondary pan which holds the return fitting for the turbo. Will be a pain but can be done in the car with some patience and a lift which I highly recommend.

 

[MDeJ10]

yeah the secondary piece with the return fitting on it seems to be bolted on through the transmission housing so it looks like the pan and the tranny housing need to be seperated to expose the bolts...of course it can be simple

appreciate the response.

 

[JDM Sam]

You gonna have to drop the transmission as the rear main seal housing attaches to it with 2 - 10mm bolts.

 

[isbre]

You gonna have to drop the transmission as the rear main seal housing attaches to it with 2 - 10mm bolts.

Yup, believe me I tried everything else when I rebuilt my engine. You have to remove the transmission or the engine to get to those two bolts.

 

[neox.286]

actually you do not need to drop the tranny to get that base plate off...if you rotate the flywheel it has two notches in it where you can get a ratchet and 10mm socket on a long extension through to get those two bolts off...the rest are easily accessible once you get the oil pan off...trust me, I've done it that way a million times now...you can put them back on the same way, but it'll take a steady hand and a little patience lol

you can completely remove it without getting the tranny off...however if you want to get the crankshaft out you WILL need to take the tranny off

 

[DrumKidd]

Thanks!

I think I may have a blown set of rings in 3. Was wondering if anyone has been able to change rings by just droping the pan and pushing the piston out, instead of doing a complete removal of the engine. Not 100% sure it's rings yet, doing a wet compression test tomorrow. The difference between #1 150 and #3 75. Did a cylinder leakage test and says cylinder 3 is about 60% with both valves closed. Sounds (by ear) like there is possible blow-by.

Still lots of smoke after turbo rebuild and the drain/feed lines don't look kinked or damaged. Wondering if there is still a lot of oil built up in the intercooler even after cleaning it. However, with a possible bad set of rings, it's hard to tell as of yet. Any other ideas?

 

[MDeJ10]

Oh nice well i'll see if i can get the plate off first to see if the crank has indeed been scored and too make sure the internals are all okay.

thanks

 

[slo03.5msp]

GL I did that one last summer thought the rings spun on me. Ended up cracking the ring landings. But as far as i know you gotta pull the trans to get the bolts off. Then you can pull the motor pull the head off and drop them out the bottom.

 

[neox.286]

again, you don't have to pull the tranny to get that base plate off...you can (if you would like) pull the pistons out without the removing the transmission through the top of the block, yes...but be sure to keep a clean working environment and be sure to thoroughly clean the block out before you reseal it up...and once you have done so, idle the engine with fresh clean oil for a good hour and then reflush the block through with a new change of oil to ensure you get as much dirt particles out of it

 

[orng1]

Or just do like all the others have done and up the boost, that way you can just pull stuff out the side of the block. Much easier out of the front of the motor. (cabpatch)

 

[neox.286]

lmfao!

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

you can also just drill holes in the trans casing to remove those bolts...


dude are you in MD??

 

[JDM Sam]

if you're seriously going through that amount of work to replace a set of rings, pull the engine out and rebuild it the correct way.

 

[MDeJ10]

you can also just drill holes in the trans casing to remove those bolts...


dude are you in MD??

you asking me?

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

you asking me?

yep. it looks like you're screen name means... maryland, ej1-which is a civic..the 0 i have no idea.

 

[neox.286]

you can also just drill holes in the trans casing to remove those bolts...

um...no, sorry damien...it's designed for you to do that without that

there are even rubber boots over the holes where you can access those at

if you're seriously going through that amount of work to replace a set of rings, pull the engine out and rebuild it the correct way.

I fully concur with that lol...it's way easier to work on it outside the car...but if you don't have a hoist and don't mind working in that tight of a space, then it is -possible- to do it without hoisting the engine out

personally though, I've found it's a lot easier to pull the engine for tasks like this than to be stubborn and do it in the engine bay...

 

[orng1]

I agree, pull the motor out and put it on an engine stand that you can rotate so you can flip the motor and clean it out properly.

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

um...no, sorry damien...it's designed for you to do that without that

there are even rubber boots over the holes where you can access those at



I fully concur with that lol...it's way easier to work on it outside the car...but if you don't have a hoist and don't mind working in that tight of a space, then it is -possible- to do it without hoisting the engine out

personally though, I've found it's a lot easier to pull the engine for tasks like this than to be stubborn and do it in the engine bay...

well.. that's just what i've heard.. miguel did it.. never seen any rubber boots myself.. then again, i've never tried taking the block out and leaving the trans in.. i like to take them both out at the same time.

 

[JDM Sam]

What rubber boots? Where are you seeing rubber boots on the main cap support plate or the transmission housing?? I'm looking at pictures of some old motors and don't see a damn place where rubber boots are.

Like I said earlier. Drop it out take it out and rebuild it the correct way instead of half assing it.