regular protege motor

So your saying that a technique that works well on a honda won't work well on your car? I have a turbo off a race kit from an integra, the IC, piping and a few other parts came off of it. Just have to take what works well on those cars and try to see if you can make it work on your car.
 
I've always said that myself, if it's running it's best it is about to blow. Neox has heard me say that a few times about my car. I've been thinking it's going to blow for a while.

Yeah I thought the same about my MSP when I first drove it and it was cold outside. It rode drove and shifted like a completly different car! I loved it gobs more power and the trans shifted like butter! But I was afraid to get on it to much due to thinking it might pop. lol
 
It's 3 to many post ****** on here. It went 4 pages in a few minutes. I know that's no record but it's still good for a thread that doesn't have a girl on it.
 
lol, stealth....orng1 = bob

neoX.286 = rob

if you mix them up then the universe will implode and the space-time continuum will start to run in reverse damnit! lol


jeanspeed: buy the motor that suits your needs...don't buy the motor that doesn't suit it

you only need a built motor if you plan to run more than 220-250whp through the motor, unless you're like bob and rock 270whp on a daily basis with leaky exhaust parts and a massive ******* turbo at 15 psi and STILL can't ******* blow it up lol...damnit bob, I want your engine!!!


in all seriousness though, don't go forged, you will regret it and in the long run will spend WAY more than it was worth or originally costing on paper, trust me I've done it four times lol


remember this fact and learn it well: our motors were designed for a whooping 98 whp...yes, 98...I can grab one of my spare stock connecting rods and mail them to you as proof of this fact

once you cross 196whp you have DOUBLED the output of the motor's original intentions...if you double the output of a 4g63 (the motor in the Mitsubishi Evo 8 and 9) you would also run the risk of blowing it up as well, because it wasn't designed for that it was designed for half of that

YES that is an extreme, and YES I know the gap increases exponentially when you go up in stock power levels, but I'm merely making a point that should be taken with a grain of salt

you can get away with 250whp through the stock block, long as you have a proper tune and aren't exceeding the limits of boost levels and your air to fuel mixture...if you run a stock tune at 13 psi you are asking for trouble (bob, don't even gloat lol, you are a massive exception)...this WILL blow your forged motor as well if you run it too lean without a proper tune, it will just take longer

if you spend 600 on a stock block and another 400 for a proper tuning solution like the split second FTC or the AEM F/IC then you could hold 250whp no problem without worrying about your rods snapping nearly as much....and trust me, 250whp would MORE than meet your needs as a daily driver that you need to have running...I would set me sights on a lower horsepower level (closer to 210) to be safe, but I'm merely giving you an extreme


the general consensus of the limits on this engine are 250whp before the rods snap, and 10psi before any kind of predetonation will cause a rod to snap or a bearing to be damaged enough to spin...stick to those limitation, and stick to a good tune, and you will be fine


look up the user Pirana, he is the ultimate proof of what I'm saying...his car (I use the past tense cause he parted out and sold it recently in lue of another project) was running a decent amount of horsepower on a larger turbo at more than 10 psi (if I recall correctly)...all on the STOCK block...the reason he didn't blow is because his tuner, JDMSam, knows his s*** and was able to create safe running conditions in a daily driven application

I'll stop ranting now, but I just wanted to make it clear that you don't need to go forged because it's safer...it is a different kind of engine intended for a different purpose, but it is still an engine and that does not make it invincible to the conditions that blew your current engine
 
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lmfao, it's just very hard to know who you're talking to when they are both 'robert', they both drive spicy orange msps that are fixed up heavily, and they are both from california hahaha
 
lol, stealth....orng1 = bob

neoX.286 = rob

if you mix them up then the universe will implode and the space-time continuum will start to run in reverse damnit! lol


jeanspeed: buy the motor that suits your needs...don't buy the motor that doesn't suit it

you only need a built motor if you plan to run more than 220-250whp through the motor, unless you're like bob and rock 270whp on a daily basis with leaky exhaust parts and a massive ******* turbo at 15 psi and STILL can't ******* blow it up lol...damnit bob, I want your engine!!!


in all seriousness though, don't go forged, you will regret it and in the long run will spend WAY more than it was worth or originally costing on paper, trust me I've done it four times lol


remember this fact and learn it well: our motors were designed for a whooping 98 whp...yes, 98...I can grab one of my spare stock connecting rods and mail them to you as proof of this fact

once you cross 196whp you have DOUBLED the output of the motor's original intentions...if you double the output of a 4g63 (the motor in the Mitsubishi Evo 8 and 9) you would also run the risk of blowing it up as well, because it wasn't designed for that it was designed for half of that

YES that is an extreme, and YES I know the gap increases exponentially when you go up in stock power levels, but I'm merely making a point that should be taken with a grain of salt

you can get away with 250whp through the stock block, long as you have a proper tune and aren't exceeding the limits of boost levels and your air to fuel mixture...if you run a stock tune at 13 psi you are asking for trouble (bob, don't even gloat lol, you are a massive exception)...this WILL blow your forged motor as well if you run it too lean without a proper tune, it will just take longer

if you spend 600 on a stock block and another 400 for a proper tuning solution like the split second FTC or the AEM F/IC then you could hold 250whp no problem without worrying about your rods snapping nearly as much....and trust me, 250whp would MORE than meet your needs as a daily driver that you need to have running...I would set me sights on a lower horsepower level (closer to 210) to be safe, but I'm merely giving you an extreme


the general consensus of the limits on this engine are 250whp before the rods snap, and 10psi before any kind of predetonation will cause a rod to snap or a bearing to be damaged enough to spin...stick to those limitation, and stick to a good tune, and you will be fine


look up the user Pirana, he is the ultimate proof of what I'm saying...his car (I use the past tense cause he parted out and sold it recently in lue of another project) was running a decent amount of horsepower on a larger turbo at more than 10 psi (if I recall correctly)...all on the STOCK block...the reason he didn't blow is because his tuner, JDMSam, knows his s*** and was able to create safe running conditions in a daily driven application

I'll stop ranting now, but I just wanted to make it clear that you don't need to go forged because it's safer...it is a different kind of engine intended for a different purpose, but it is still an engine and that does not make it invincible to the conditions that blew your current engine
I won't gloat at all, I know it's supposed be dead a long time ago.

I do know I've been lucky to not blow my motor through the stress that it has been through. There are way more that have blown at way less than what i drive it at daily.

I'd say most people would be happy with an MSP at anything above 200whp. A lot of people were happy with it until they dyno'ed and saw they were only making 195 so close to that 200. I'd leave it around there, the motor already blew and I doubt that he was passed that as is. I always blame that stock turbo for being to restrictive and creating to much heat.
 
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I won't gloat at all, I know it's supposed be dead a long time ago.

I do know I've been lucky to not blow my motor through the stress that it has been through. There are way more that have blown at way less than what i drive it at daily.

I'd say most people would be happy with an MSP at anything above 200whp. A lot of people were happy with it until they dyno'ed and saw they were only making 195 so close to that 200. I'd leave it around there, the motor already blew and I doubt that he was passed that as is. I always blame that stock turbo for being to restrictive and creating to much heat.

Care to expand on this?
 
The stock turbine limits flow at higher RPM. It wasn't really created for what we want to use it, it was chosen for quick spool up and emissions. I've taken my car way past quick spool up and emissions and it seems like that's where it wants to be. That 42 trim T3s almost perfect for a daily driver, it'd be perfect except the emissions deal.
 
The stock turbine limits flow at higher RPM. It wasn't really created for what we want to use it, it was chosen for quick spool up and emissions. I've taken my car way past quick spool up and emissions and it seems like that's where it wants to be. That 42 trim T3s almost perfect for a daily driver, it'd be perfect except the emissions deal.

I knew they picked a small turbo for quick spool up but wasn't aware emissions had any play into the size of the stock turbo. btw what is the trim on the stocker?
 
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