lol, stealth....orng1 = bob
neoX.286 = rob
if you mix them up then the universe will implode and the space-time continuum will start to run in reverse damnit! lol
jeanspeed: buy the motor that suits your needs...don't buy the motor that doesn't suit it
you only need a built motor if you plan to run more than 220-250whp through the motor, unless you're like bob and rock 270whp on a daily basis with leaky exhaust parts and a massive ******* turbo at 15 psi and STILL can't ******* blow it up lol...damnit bob, I want your engine!!!
in all seriousness though, don't go forged, you will regret it and in the long run will spend WAY more than it was worth or originally costing on paper, trust me I've done it four times lol
remember this fact and learn it well: our motors were designed for a whooping 98 whp...yes, 98...I can grab one of my spare stock connecting rods and mail them to you as proof of this fact
once you cross 196whp you have DOUBLED the output of the motor's original intentions...if you double the output of a 4g63 (the motor in the Mitsubishi Evo 8 and 9) you would also run the risk of blowing it up as well, because it wasn't designed for that it was designed for half of that
YES that is an extreme, and YES I know the gap increases exponentially when you go up in stock power levels, but I'm merely making a point that should be taken with a grain of salt
you can get away with 250whp through the stock block, long as you have a proper tune and aren't exceeding the limits of boost levels and your air to fuel mixture...if you run a stock tune at 13 psi you are asking for trouble (bob, don't even gloat lol, you are a massive exception)...this WILL blow your forged motor as well if you run it too lean without a proper tune, it will just take longer
if you spend 600 on a stock block and another 400 for a proper tuning solution like the split second FTC or the AEM F/IC then you could hold 250whp no problem without worrying about your rods snapping nearly as much....and trust me, 250whp would MORE than meet your needs as a daily driver that you need to have running...I would set me sights on a lower horsepower level (closer to 210) to be safe, but I'm merely giving you an extreme
the general consensus of the limits on this engine are 250whp before the rods snap, and 10psi before any kind of predetonation will cause a rod to snap or a bearing to be damaged enough to spin...stick to those limitation, and stick to a good tune, and you will be fine
look up the user Pirana, he is the ultimate proof of what I'm saying...his car (I use the past tense cause he parted out and sold it recently in lue of another project) was running a decent amount of horsepower on a larger turbo at more than 10 psi (if I recall correctly)...all on the STOCK block...the reason he didn't blow is because his tuner, JDMSam, knows his s*** and was able to create safe running conditions in a daily driven application
I'll stop ranting now, but I just wanted to make it clear that you don't need to go forged because it's safer...it is a different kind of engine intended for a different purpose, but it is still an engine and that does not make it invincible to the conditions that blew your current engine