Rear Camber adjustment

[wanna3]

So after getting the adjustable upper control arms, i come to find out that the passenger side is wayyyyyyyyy more bs than the drivers side. So i looked up to see how to replace the passenger side, i found only one in this forum and there were no pics etc, he only stated that there were 6 bolts to take out the rear subframe, ok but looking at it it seems there is way more to do than just remove 6 bolts. So im asking a full or better walkthrough on how to replace the upper control arm on the passenger side. Thanks

 

[Mazdafreak67]

So after getting the adjustable upper control arms, i come to find out that the passenger side is wayyyyyyyyy more bs than the drivers side. So i looked up to see how to replace the passenger side, i found only one in this forum and there were no pics etc, he only stated that there were 6 bolts to take out the rear subframe, ok but looking at it it seems there is way more to do than just remove 6 bolts. So im asking a full or better walkthrough on how to replace the upper control arm on the passenger side. Thanks

Yes, I did this job about 6 months ago. On the passenger side there is some kind of fuel sensor that blocks access to the upper bolt. I remember having to disconnect the lower shock mounting as the shock couldn't extend enough to allow access.
So by removing the 6 bolts, you're lowering the entire rear subframe from the rest of the car. I remember having the car up on jackstands pretty high, then using the floor jack under the rea subframe to lower it under control.
Once I remover the electronic fuel unit, then I could get the upper bolt out. But even then, it was still a b****!

 

[wanna3]

so i dont need to like take off the rear sway bar, lower control arms, and all the other crap in the way?

 

[Mazdafreak67]

Now that you mention it, I do remember disconnecting the 2 Rear Sway End Links to rotate it down out of the way. I think I also loosened up the clamps that held it to the subframe so it could rotate easier. Did not remover the lower control arm.

 

[wanna3]

yea i thought atleast the endlinks would have to go, thanks for the help, lemme know if you remember anything else or find a link to a write-up

 

[Mazdafreak67]

Well,
As a posted little while ago in the "Sedan Pics" thread, I'm expecting a new set of the Tein H-Tech's later this week, so I'll be diving back under the rear end to put them in this weekend.
I'm sure once I'm down there the memories from installing the camber links will come rushing back. I'll post whatever I can remember on Saturday.

 

[binhsterbinh]

http://krystmsgarage.com/?p=287

I did not touch the rear sway bar. I highly recommend a ratcheting 10mm box wrench for that stupid sensor screw that you can't see but only feel. Preferably one that is short and has a 90 degree pivoting end at the ratcheting point. I picked up that single 10mm wrench for like $10 at Lowes. I couldn't have done it without it in a timely manner. It's worth the money...I literally got up and had my buddy drive me down to the store for it because it's that difficult using a non ratcheting one.

 

[wanna3]

ah i see, thanks for the info guys, i think about next week imma give it another try

 

[Mazdafreak67]

Well,
As a posted little while ago in the "Sedan Pics" thread, I'm expecting a new set of the Tein H-Tech's later this week, so I'll be diving back under the rear end to put them in this weekend.
I'm sure once I'm down there the memories from installing the camber links will come rushing back. I'll post whatever I can remember on Saturday.

The H-Tech's came in on Wednesday and I couldn't wait until Saturday to get them in.
After replacing the Sportlines with the H-Tech's I remember I had to remove the Sway Bar End Links to get the lower control arm to swing down low enough to pull out (and put in) the rear springs. However that was NOT necessary to reach that upper camber link bolt. If you simply drop the rear subframe down several inches, it should work out.

Here's a couple of pic's with the new springs. It's amazing.... the ride quality is several orders of magnitude better than the Sportlines, while losing only minor amount of handling sharpness. If the rear was about 1/2-inch lower, it would be PERFECT:

 

[wanna3]

I acutally found an AMAZING write-up on the rear camber links, turns out that you dont even have to drop the subframe, just remove a fk stupid bolt and push a bracket back and you have access to the upper bolt. Although you do need small/thin hands which i do not so im forcing a friend of mine to do it.

Btw nice drop and like i said before i HATE uneven drops but if its a small amount (such as yours) where you dont really notice it i can live with it, but im choosing to go with the road magnets 1.75 drop f/r.

 

[Mazdafreak67]

I acutally found an AMAZING write-up on the rear camber links, turns out that you dont even have to drop the subframe, just remove a fk stupid bolt and push a bracket back and you have access to the upper bolt. Although you do need small/thin hands which i do not so im forcing a friend of mine to do it.

Btw nice drop and like i said before i HATE uneven drops but if its a small amount (such as yours) where you dont really notice it i can live with it, but im choosing to go with the road magnets 1.75 drop f/r.

Yea, the problem I found with our Sedans is that the springs are universal for both the sedans and hatches. So it appears that most of the manufacturers set the rear springs so the F/R drop is nearly even on hatches. Since we have 100lbs or so less weight over the rear springs, it ends up sitting a 1/4 inch or so higher in the rear.
I might have to do some more customizing to get it to sit just right.

 

[wanna3]

man wth, i swear if i get the road magnets and it ends up being uneven im gonna be pissed

 

[cali_axela]

If the rear ends up sitting higher, just put a couple big subs and amps in the trunk to even it out

 

[wanna3]

heh, im not much for loud audio, i just want a 10in kicker l7 flush mounted on the passenger side, some nice door speakers and a flip out so i can be distracted while driving

 

[cjsM3]

Could you send link to Amazing Instructions for rear camber link install? Thanks

I acutally found an AMAZING write-up on the rear camber links, turns out that you dont even have to drop the subframe, just remove a fk stupid bolt and push a bracket back and you have access to the upper bolt. Although you do need small/thin hands which i do not so im forcing a friend of mine to do it.

Btw nice drop and like i said before i HATE uneven drops but if its a small amount (such as yours) where you dont really notice it i can live with it, but im choosing to go with the road magnets 1.75 drop f/r.