Not yet. I want to make sure it is functional on the motor first. I need to find a sump pump to and time the suction rate and fill up rate to make surethe design allows adiquite flow forthe sump pickup tube.
Rally2003's Build Thread
- Thread starter rally2003
- Start date
Not yet. I want to make sure it is functional on the motor first. I need to find a sump pump to and time the suction rate and fill up rate to make surethe design allows adiquite flow forthe sump pickup tube.
- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
Subbing for oil pan baffle set up!
Well I failed on the oil baffle yesterday. I forgot my dremel at my friends house to cut out the holes for the hinges and oil flow holes. My 4 1/2" cutting wheel would make it look like ass. I did get the 2 exhaust manifold bolts that were boke off in the head out along with all 5 broken studs in the turbo for the downpipe. I forgot how long it takes to drill and tap out a holw the right way, then times that by 7. Just need to buy some new exhaust manifold studs and DP studs for the turbo and put her back together. Then finish up the wiring and welding up the baffle. Then hopefully taxes come in and on to the CF parts.
- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
Baffle! Baffle! Baffle!
LOL
LOL
Buhahahaha, the test piece for the trap door oil pan baffle is done. It fits a little snug, but looks like it will work great. I might have to give it a little more clearence on the next couple I make and see if there is a better fitment for easier installation.
- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
<3
- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
Was about to ask if you had any pics lol
That looks pretty damn good. Much like many of the ones built for other cars. The location of the trap doors, are they in a spot where they would always be submerged in oil(assuming your fluids are full)?
That looks pretty damn good. Much like many of the ones built for other cars. The location of the trap doors, are they in a spot where they would always be submerged in oil(assuming your fluids are full)?
Because of the pickup location on the one side the door is a little higher and between the 2 and 3 quart area, but the other is close to the 2 quart line. There is a margin around the piece in certain areas that allows oil to flow from chamber to chamber to help level out the oil when flat.
- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
Good stuff. Awesome that you are tackling this.
When does testing start? Whats the best way to monitor that everything is good?
When does testing start? Whats the best way to monitor that everything is good?
Testing starts when I install my new dp and exhaust manifold studs. The only way to really test it is by running it on the street and autoX and observing the oil pressure. There isn't really any other way to test it. It did some testing with it just in the pan it everything flows good. Even with just 2 quarts in the pan it keeps the pickup covered. I did it with 2 and 3 quarts because there will never be a full 3.73 or 4 quarts in the pan while runing. 2 quarts seemed like a more likely number since I couldn't find the flow capacity of the stock oil pump.
- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
Yeah thats kind of what I figured as far as testing it out.
Just bought P255/40ZR-17 BFGoodrich g-Force R1 S for the front to fit on the 17x9 +22 Enkei RPF1's. I also orded some techflex in 3 different sizes to finish up the engine bay wiring. I'll be going to stealership to pick up exhaust manifold and dp studs and ordering a NRG short hub and wheel from my friend at CR3. Hopefully I'll have her running next week. Then when the tires tires come in it's off to the shop to have them fitted and start all the fun CF stuff. I'll be doing another version of the baffle for the oil pan too (fingers crossed this one has better overall flow). A lot to do in a months time.
harbor freight? I thought they were 10 point nuts. Whatever they are I went to harbor freight and grabbed a socket and it worked.
Nope they are 12pt. I've never seen a 10pt. Usually nuts/bolts are 4, 6, or12. The POPE DP has no room underneath it and there are a few on the Thunder I would not be able to get. I have to use a wrench to get them on and off.
I'm tempted to go to the junkyard and see ifI can gather up a few good studs. I can always just put the stock bolts back in for now and put the others in later, but I need 5 for the downpipe.
I forgot I need to pick up a new turbo flange
On another note I purchased:
x2 2-Bolt 3" gasket
3-Bolt 3" gasket
2-Bolt 3" SS Flange
NRG short hub
NRG 3" dish steering wheel
I forgot I need to pick up a new turbo flange
On another note I purchased:
x2 2-Bolt 3" gasket
3-Bolt 3" gasket
2-Bolt 3" SS Flange
NRG short hub
NRG 3" dish steering wheel
