Question!!!

KaBlam

Member
:
1985 mazda RX-7 GSL-SE
hey everybody, just wondering... how much would it/should it cost to get: a. new transmission... or B. old transmission stripped and rebuilt?

and how much should it cost to get a 13B engine stripped and resealed?

i have a 1985 rx7 GSL-SE 5sp. manual transmission
 
To answer your first question I'm pretty sure new transmissions are no longer available and I have been unable to find any transmission shops local to me who are willing to rebuild manual transmissions. The reason being you can grab a working used unit for less than the cost of a rebuild. You can typically find used transmissions in the $100-$500 range. The only way I know of rebuilding a transmission is ordering the parts yourself (still available) and doing it yourself.

I've not seen a total rebuild package for less than $1500 and that's with you tearing the engine down to "shortblock" status and sending it away (price does not include freight). These rebuilds typically use aftermarket seals and such, which I'm hesitant to use unless they're specifically designed for race engines (carbon or ceramic apex seals, etc.). A full OEM rebuild kit from Mazda is going to cost you at least $1500.
 
do you thiknk it would be a better idea to take it to the dealer and just deal with them for the whole thing? even though it would probably be more expensive.
 
ok, kinda an emergency thing, my clutch pedal sticks down but after it gets stuck, the clutch no longer works and the car begins to build revs regardless of the fact that my foot is still depressed on the pedal. scale of 1-10 how bad is this?
 
do you thiknk it would be a better idea to take it to the dealer and just deal with them for the whole thing? even though it would probably be more expensive.
Based on the age of your car even the dealer may or may not know what to do. The ONE TIME I had to bring my 1989 to the dealer I actually had to schedule in advance to insure the ONE GUY who knew the older rotaries was in that day. They'll definitely have access to the right tools and parts but definitely be prepared for sticker shock. Best to make absolutely sure you need to bring it in first. There's nothing more annoying than paying $100 for "diagnostics" when they find nothing wrong.
ok, kinda an emergency thing, my clutch pedal sticks down but after it gets stuck, the clutch no longer works and the car begins to build revs regardless of the fact that my foot is still depressed on the pedal. scale of 1-10 how bad is this?
This sounds like it's an issue with the clutch slave and/or master cylinder than the transmission. It may be hard to spot immediately but the clutch slave is bolted to the engine/transmission flange and has what looks like a soft brake line attached to it. The clutch master cylinder should be to the right of the brake master cylinder (looking at the front of the car). It sounds like one or both of these devices has a leak or is in desperate need of bleeding. When you push in the clutch you move a piston in the clutch master cylinder, which through hydraulic pressure, moves the actuator arm on the clutch slave cylinder. This moves an arm in the transmission bellhouding, which in turn moves the throw-out bearing and engages/disengages the clutch.
 
Give us a call, ask for Mark. We know all rotates and transmissions very well. (I'm the one who does them) . We can give you a proper quote for the items/services you are looking for.

EB Turbo
Tri-Point Engineering
9543 De Soto Ave
Chatsworth, CA 91311
(818) 348-5385 shop
 

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