Question on vics / vtcs

[bob850]

Just got a 2003 Protege5 with the 2.0 naturally aspirated engine and manual trans.

I’m a noob on these. It looks like someone had unplugged the green and white solenoid connectors on the intake, plugged the green one into where the white one was, and left the white connector unplugged. They left the vac line on the solenoid that previously had the green connector, but pulled the vac line off the solenoid that had the white connector and capped the port.

The car runs fine. I just noticed this and wondered why it was done. I’ve attached a pic showing what I mean.

 

[pcb]

I'll bet his VICS solenoid crapped out so he bypassed it and is using the VTCS solenoid to run the VISC.

I'll look into it tomorrow when I'm sober. Lol

The VTCS solenoid is almost never used.
Your car will run fine except for a bit more pollution when you first start your car when it's cold out.

 

[pcb]

Do you have codes P1512, P1569, or P1570?

If so, one of these will fix your problem.

 

[bob850]

I don’t have any codes (on my generic OBDII reader). I will try moving the connectors back to their original positions, and reconnect the vac line and see if any codes show up.

 

[bob850]

PCB, Are you sure that solenoid part number will work? It is far cheaper than the other part numbers which are listed for the VICS and VTCS, most of them are like $50.

 

[pcb]

I'm about 98% sure that solenoid will work.
Others have used it.

You can search out that part at Rockauto and click "info" to list different part numbers.

 

[Spencer_P]

I bought two of them, one for VICS and one for VTCS, and both seem to work fine. I haven't gotten the codes back since installing them.

 

[bob850]

Thanks guys. I’ll get them ordered. Also, I hooked mine back up and got code P2009.

 

[pcb]

P2009 info...

How to replace solenoid on Protege5?

Hey everybody, Based on my research on the forums the Solenoid issue seems pretty common for the 2003 Protege5. The previous owner replaced the Intake runner solenoid (part number AAAkL0118741) but now the computer is throwing a P2009 error code. I brought it to a mechanic and he says...

www.mazdas247.com

 

[pcb]

You could buy this version...



It appears to be built better with a brass tube connector but I don't think it's worth it.

The full plastic version may not last as long but neither will our cars.

Here's how you convert one valve to the other...





This is just an air filter to keep crap out of the valve.

 

[bob850]

Just to close the loop on this, I installed the new solenoid and the code has not come back. Appears fixed.

 

[KMac]

Just to close the loop on this, I installed the new solenoid and the code has not come back. Appears fixed.

How is it running now?

 

[bob850]

Fine so far. I replaced both the vtcs and vics solenoids with the ones suggested above and no codes so far.

 

[ProteJester]

Do you have codes P1512, P1569, or P1570?

If so, one of these will fix your problem.

I know this is super old, but I’m getting a p1569. The image isn’t showing unfortunately, could you explain what I would need to do?

 

[pcb]

I know this is super old, but I’m getting a p1569. The image isn’t showing unfortunately, could you explain what I would need to do?

This is what you need to replace,..
This is from rockauto.com

They are all the same valve.
The vacuum lines may connect differently

VTCS, VICS, EGR Solenoid Valve, and PRC Solenoid Valve


I noticed on my car that the PRC Solenoid Valve had a metal port on the one end.
That's the more expensive version at Rockauto,..

The only thing that I can think of for the difference, is that I think it's possible for the PRC Solenoid Valve to suck fuel vapor through the valve, so it's more "fire proof"?

The circled plug on the end is just a dust filter to prevent dust from getting sucked into the valve.

You just pull it off and put it on the port that you need it on.

The VICS, VTCS, and EGR Solenoid Valves all have plastic ports with the dust filter in the same spot (I think?)

 

[pcb]

I know this is super old, but I’m getting a p1569. The image isn’t showing unfortunately, could you explain what I would need to do?

I just noticed this post of yours,..

The only time that I heard of problems with the cheaper all plastic valves, was when the car was turbocharged.

I figure that the extra vacuum pressure was wrecking the valves faster?

In that case an OEM Mazda valve might last longer, but they are around $100 or more.
You might be better off just stocking up on the cheap valves instead?

 

[ProteJester]

I just noticed this post of yours,..


View attachment 331526


The only time that I heard of problems with the cheaper all plastic valves, was when the car was turbocharged.

I figure that the extra vacuum pressure was wrecking the valves faster?

In that case an OEM Mazda valve might last longer, but they are around $100 or more.
You might be better off just stocking up on the cheap valves instead?

Thank you so much!! Also, that’s some good info to have on the turbo charging bit, I wasn’t aware of that potential issue at all.