I want to keep my stock headunit and install a four channel amp and sub amp with speakers, but know nothing of the best way to do this without spending significant bucks. I have been reading about line out converters, line drivers and signal processors and am confused as to the best way to go for decent but not outrageous sound while still keeping the stock headunit and its functions....any guidance would be appreciated.
Pumping up sound in my MS3
- Thread starter jerrygp
- Start date
mrjoshyman
Member
you need to tell us if you have the bose h/u or not
Please DO NOT go to Wal-Mart to buy an amp, speakers, or sub-box. Get some decent equipment from Best-Buy, Crutchfield, or similar reputable online company. Stay away from the garbage brands like Duel, Jensen, Audiovox, etc. Even some cheaper Sony, Pioneer, Kenwood is garbage. You can get the speaker wiring most anywhere. Buy an all-in-one 4-channel amp install kit that comes with the power, ground, RCA's, turn on lead, and connectors from a reputable place as well. Not sure if Wal-Mart has these or not, but they are probably not too bad. Just don't buy your componenets from there.
You could go either way regarding LOC vs sound processer. Here are the pros/cons.
LOC:
pros:
1. cheap
2. easier install
3. small
cons:
1. may introduce "noise"
2. not flexible regarding tweaking frequency output of stock HU
3. I belive no turn-on lead.
Sound Processer (ie. JL CleanSwep, MTX RE-Q)
pros:
1. very flexible, gives you full and flat frequency response to amps
2. turn-on lead output
3. some have crossovers built in
cons:
1. much more expensive
2. larger, have to mount it somewhere
3. less "user friendly", requires more knowledge to tweak correctly.
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I appreciate the input. I won't be doing the garbage in garbage out route. (no offense to the Walmart suggestion.) I'll be buying my components from the better rep brands and mostly have looked at AudioControl LC6i (probably overkill but I don't have the background to know for sure,) JL Audio Cleansweep CL441DSP (still maybe too expensive. Can I hook up a four channel amp and power front speakers and a sub with this?) I have also looked at several LOC's (Navone's NHRL-2 and NHRL-4...but am unsure of the need for LOC's with some amps that might have built in speaker inputs and LOC's of their own.) There's alot of possiblities from what I'm reading and I'm looking for something "elegant" but simple. I know that sounds weird, but with the tech strength of these forums, if it can be done...someone might read this and point me in a direction...
pat_smith1969
Member
I have the RE-Q5.
I paid $50 for it on ebay (new in box). It is not as fancy as the clean sweep but it is $250 less money and does close to the same thing. Get the RE-Q and you will be happy.
I paid $50 for it on ebay (new in box). It is not as fancy as the clean sweep but it is $250 less money and does close to the same thing. Get the RE-Q and you will be happy.
ElSpeedDiablo
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed3
I think the speakers in the stock unit sounds fine, I'd say do what I'm doing and just buy yourself a nice amp mono of course and a sub. I'm only getting one box, because I'm not trying to have my car bumping to much. I'd say got with a 12 or a 10. For a nice amp and sub with box, also wiring will probably run you about $320. By the way I have a sport model like you.
pat_smith1969
Member
you would still need some way to get the bass into the sub. You still will need a RE-Q or similar.
- :
- 06 LS MS6
07 BM GT (shell has been struck from the roll)
most decent 4 ch allow bridging the back channel to a sub
your decision path should start with how stealthy you want to be you have started with keeping the stock HU
are you ok with a big box in the trunk?
extra things under the seats?
aftermarket stereo is a very slippery slope and THE best thing you can do is outline a mandatory appearance/intrusiveness standard BEFORE yo spend a penny.
then you can spend wisely
oh, and never unsderestimate the value of high end, well routed rca cables(cheers)
Appreciate all the input...I settled on an Audiocontrol LC7 processor and am considering an Alpine 4 ch. MRP-F300 amp for the the component fronts (haven't decided what brand but definately want 6x8 mids with tweets up in the front sail panel.) I have a pair of Boston RX87 two ways that have been sitting around that I'm considering for the rear doors. (Don't know if adding the rear speakers will mess up my front seat sound stage though.) Lastly an Alpine MRP-M500 mono amp with a JL Audio CS110RG-W1V2 10" sub at 4 ohms with sealed box for the rear. The LC7 will let me control the sub output which will be nice for my old ears. Any thoughts or input? You guys are the greatest for DIY...
One last question...if I were to just run component speakers through the front two channels, and a sub through the bridged rear two channels and power everything throught the Alpine (or whatever might work) four channel, will the sub woofer level control on the LC7 still function by my running my sub signal through the bridged 3 and 4 output channels, or do I need a separate amp for the level control to function? Any help will be greatly considered and appreciated...
One last question...if I were to just run component speakers through the front two channels, and a sub through the bridged rear two channels and power everything throught the Alpine (or whatever might work) four channel, will the sub woofer level control on the LC7 still function by my running my sub signal through the bridged 3 and 4 output channels, or do I need a separate amp for the level control to function? Any help will be greatly considered and appreciated...
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Not to hijack this post, but I've been considering this exact same setup; it seems like a fairly cost effective method to get some great quality sound out of this ride without installing a new head unit. I've priced out all this gear here, and will run me about $950. My question is about the "1 4-channel amp" setup. If you run the fronts through channel 1/2, and the sub through 3/4, does that eliminate the rears all together? Or can they run unpowered? I apologize in advance, I have close to zero car audio experience.
Usually, for a LOC, you tap into the speaker outputs to turn them into "line level", meaning RCA, which run to the amp(s). If you tapped the front and rears to run fronts and a sub with amps, the rears would be eliminated. I am not positive, but I believe some LOC's only need one speaker input with multiple outputs, but I believe the fader will be affected then. Not sure, so if anyone has more info, let me know.
I wouldn't do that with the stock speakers. It seems to me with the Bose, either replace everything, or nothing. There is a long thread in here somewhere about this. I'll find the link.
Edit: Here ya go:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123733269
Thanks man
I'm installing the Audiocontrol LC7 and was wondering if anyone has any advice one way or another on whether I would see significant soundstage improvement if I added an Audiocontrol EQS equalizer into the circuit. They are pricey and if someone has some input, I'd appreciate it. Component speakers up front (anybody have preferences?), two Boston RX87's in the rear doors and a JL audio CS11RG-W1V2 sub and box, and an Alpine 4ch MRP-f300 for the doors and an Alpine two channel bridged for the sub...
dont bother doing all that. I say KISS.
get this adaptor http://www.autosoundcentral.com/PAC_AOEM_MAZ2_Add_an_Amplifier_Adapter_p/aoemmaz2.htm
it provides 2 sets of RCA, connect that to a good 4 or 5 channel amp, and run some good speakers.
get this adaptor http://www.autosoundcentral.com/PAC_AOEM_MAZ2_Add_an_Amplifier_Adapter_p/aoemmaz2.htm
it provides 2 sets of RCA, connect that to a good 4 or 5 channel amp, and run some good speakers.
