Protege5 questions
- Thread starter TWISFM
- Start date
Hey Welcome. I rock the Teins on my car and it's like a different car, I love em'! Once you learn to put on the springs yourself, you'll relize how easy it really is. It will build your confidence to handle bigger things. And if you do it right you won't need to align the car, mine was perfect even afterwards. Have a buddy there to help you out. Also If you have the crap, stock tires on, the new springs will expose how sucky they really are! Dunlop DZ101's FTW!!
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- -- 23 CX-5 --
^^^ Well, doing it "right" might involve new struts too so you don't have to go back a 2nd time when the oems fail. "Right" is subject to interpretation. Right for you may not be for others. Let us know in about 15k how those new skins are holding up as well as the oem struts. "Right" on for DIY tho.........
ya ive read the thread about doing it yourself i just dunno it seems like one of the more trouble some projects. i mean the header and UDP i probably could do myself and am most likely going to do.
I drive- when you saying getting new struts because the OEM's will fail. are you saying this because once i put lower springs on my car theres a good chance they will fail? just from new springs? or are you saying our stock struts suck and are going to break eventually anyway...?
I drive- when you saying getting new struts because the OEM's will fail. are you saying this because once i put lower springs on my car theres a good chance they will fail? just from new springs? or are you saying our stock struts suck and are going to break eventually anyway...?
MazdaSpeeder
Member
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- Protege5 (5-spd)
Your P5 is a few years old so the original struts are probably approaching the end of their useful lives, and this will only be accelerated by lower springs. I have wanted to do springs for quite a while, but I'm waiting until I can afford the springs and new struts (Tokico HPs), then I'll do it all in one shot. No point in paying (or DIY) for new springs and then having to do (or pay) all over again in a year or two for new struts. Welcome to the forum!(drinks)
TWISFM-"ya what is he talking about anyway...haha whats unnecessary?"
I don't have a clue.
He's right the stock struts were designed for the stock springs, when you lower a car, you change the original geometry some what. The OEM struts will work for a while, especially if you don't have $$, but they'll take more abuse. I didn't have the $ for coilovers and I don't mind putting new struts on later. Tein does a great job though in designing the spring for each specific car. the ride can be bouncy at times on bad roads, but on a good, smooth twisty...I get chills...
I don't have a clue.
He's right the stock struts were designed for the stock springs, when you lower a car, you change the original geometry some what. The OEM struts will work for a while, especially if you don't have $$, but they'll take more abuse. I didn't have the $ for coilovers and I don't mind putting new struts on later. Tein does a great job though in designing the spring for each specific car. the ride can be bouncy at times on bad roads, but on a good, smooth twisty...I get chills...
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hmmm. ok then a couple questions.JPB- how long have you had your springs on without new struts. and whats you milage.
second question is what happens when the Oem struts fail??? is my car just gunna fall the the floor?
getting new struts is just to expensive for me...poor college student..
second question is what happens when the Oem struts fail??? is my car just gunna fall the the floor?
getting new struts is just to expensive for me...poor college student..
ok so after all this ive decided to not go with no springs because of being worried that my OEM struts will give out and just give me a headache. i am still wondering what happens when the struts give out..?? so looks like in the next 2 weeks im getting the OBX UDP and OBX header..gunna try and do it myself (hopefully with a friend to)..any advice.. also once im done with these mods..whats the next step besides a mid pipe, which i think im gunna get. SLS catless mid pipe seems cheap enough for a couple more hp's.. come on i need some more answers. still no answer from the end of page two 
MazdaSpeeder
Member
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- Protege5 (5-spd)
Cams probably won't give you a big gain and they're not the easiest to install (nor are they super cheap). I know it's more than you want to spend, but save up and get a good short shifter...B&Ms is around $100 I think. I wouldn't trust an ebay shifter not to break at the worst time, and if you can't get your car in gear, you can't drive it. A Kartboy SS was my first mod and by far one of the best for this car...I don't know if I could ever go back, the shifts are so short and precise. As for your strut question, when they fail they'll start leaking oil, ride quality will be awful, and your handling characteristics will change (not for the better!). Good luck with the header install...make sure you thread the egr before you bolt the header to the engine!
thanks for the answers!! as for the header install i read the whole tread on installing and saw alot of people had many problems. dont remember reading about threading the egr.. could you be more specific maybe add some links. this is the one install im worried about im confident i can install the UDP. the header worries me alot also because the car is 6 years old im guessing the bolts are gunna be totally rusted out...any other advice? and also what should my next engine mod be after the header and UDP?
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- -- 23 CX-5 --
Next eng mod.........Medieval lightened wp,alt & pwr steering pulleys
MazdaSpeeder
Member
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- Protege5 (5-spd)
As for the header, use lots of PB blaster and get an impact wrench! I can't stress this enough...I would have broken bolts and studs left and right without it! The egr is the tube that connects to the threaded nub on the right side of the header. If you install the header and then try to thread the tube, it's hard to make it match up. Slide the header on the studs, move it around and thread the egr, then tighten the bolts to the head.
