Protege5 Outback?

[GraySurf]

I hope i dont get shunned for posting a pic of a Subaru on a Mazda forum but here is what im going for,... but on a Suby

1'' spacers between the top of the strut and the strut tower mounting point.
Tires are BFG All-terrains 215-75-15 (I know there is another company that makes a similar size but 16")
The spacers were a custom job, which makes me a little worried that this may be a little more expensive than I first thought.
I have to try and find a suspension shop near me to answer some questions.


Credit: http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1101

 

[HKPRO5]

You should do something like this! lol As for the spacers, get the top hats with some alumium pieces (1" thick by what ever the top hat sizes are) take it to a machine shop.

Also have them press in longer studs.

 

[GraySurf]

You should do something like this! lol As for the spacers, get the top hats with some alumium pieces (1" thick by what ever the top hat sizes are) take it to a machine shop.

Also have them press in longer studs.

Sounds pricey!?

Im kind of a noob but from what I know and what google told me is: the "top hat" is the black rubber/metal thing at top of the strut tower right? is that what the strut bolts up to?
I think something like this should work. I just need to find one that fits the P5...

 

[HKPRO5]

You probably won't find one that fits. I suggest picking up a spare top hat at napa or something. Then take that to a machine shop and tell them what you want.

 

[GraySurf]

So a thicker top hat is all I would need? Would I need longer bolts too?

 

[shootz]

Hey, if you need some top hats, I think I have a full set of front + back that you can basically have (just pay for shipping). I can fit them into a flat-rate box. It'll give you what you need mostly to get started on the conversion. LMK, I'd love to see this happen and see your progress.

Do the base protege sedans have a higher ride height then the p5 maybe swaping to those struts and springs would give it the lift I'm looking for.

The ride height isn't too different. The Pro5 is heavier in the back, so a switch to Sedan hardware would only hurt your hopes.

Something else to consider is the front bumper... the Pro5 sticks out a bit more and down farther than the sedan... but if you changed that out, you'd loose the good fog lights down there. Actually, I would recommend getting some PIAA fogs for the stock location... something that does a better job of lighting the road ahead. I have CATZ fog lights and I LOVE them... SO much more light.

 

[Bastian]

bringing this back... but I saw this for a good deal and thought you might want to get in on it.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Mazda-Protege-Skid-Tray&p=5912653#post5912653

 

[Deathpickle]

Lifting an inch or two is the easy part. It can be done the same way they lift trucks. A set of these shouldn't be hard to get made. I cant see them costing more than $100 for 2.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-2011-D...es&hash=item3f0a0527b1&vxp=mtr#ht_4846wt_1396

The hard part will be getting it all to play nicely, and have a decent ride. And from what it seems like, the coils on the struts are so wide, squeezing much bigger rims and tires under this car is no walk in the park.
But a 1 inch lift shouldn't be too hard to align.

 

[GraySurf]

I have talked to a machine shop about making new top hats. He quoted me $400 for the 4 but he brought up a good point, that with a lift I would need relocation brackets for the sway bars too. So I'm still working on that.

 

[GlowstickNinja]

I have talked to a machine shop about making new top hats. He quoted me $400 for the 4 but he brought up a good point, that with a lift I would need relocation brackets for the sway bars too. So I'm still working on that.

Not necessarily, wouldn't you just need a shorter endlink......say 1" shorter or so. A set of adjustable would probably work fine. The geometries would work fine I think. If only 1 inch. This just moves the location of the endlink mount on the strut down an inch. Correct me if I am wrong, that's how I can imagine it in my mind.

 

[us3r]

interesting, good luck man.

 

[GraySurf]

Not necessarily, wouldn't you just need a shorter endlink......say 1" shorter or so. A set of adjustable would probably work fine. The geometries would work fine I think. If only 1 inch. This just moves the location of the endlink mount on the strut down an inch. Correct me if I am wrong, that's how I can imagine it in my mind.

That might work ill look into it.

 

[P-Funk!]

That would be way cool! Do it! The First Ralliart P5!

Google Research 'gravel spec' coilovers (i see them for the Ralliart Lancers...)

 

[SoCalMP5]

Those pictures make it look like a Pontiac Vibe. Yuck.

Sounds like a cool idea (if you don't care about reducing your gas mileage) in theory - but those pictures just don't look right. I also happen to notice how crappy the stock open diff is - on very easy throttle, just pulling out of my neighborhood every day, I go across a small gutter/dip. It's tiny. And no matter how light I am on the gas while making that right turn from a stop in 1st, it spins the inside wheel like I'm doing a burnout contest for a good 2-3 seconds as I accelerate (lightly) on to the next residential street. I can't stand it.

Good luck on the concept! Personally, I don't think you need a lift at all. Just get a small A/T tire on there (goodbye gas mileage!). The gap from the factory makes it look like a 4x4 anyway. Some rally lights on the front, some mud flaps, and you have that "Volvo XC70/Audi Allroad" attitude. The two-tone body cladding just looks really UN-factory...I'd toy around with leaving it one color. Makes it look "cheap" IMHO.

http://www.volvoforum.org/forum_posts.asp?TID=543

 

[riverzendz]

Not necessarily, wouldn't you just need a shorter endlink......say 1" shorter or so. A set of adjustable would probably work fine. The geometries would work fine I think. If only 1 inch. This just moves the location of the endlink mount on the strut down an inch. Correct me if I am wrong, that's how I can imagine it in my mind.

No. A lift will raise the body which the sway bar is attached to therefor increasing the length of the endlinks. A lift does not lower anything, that's why it's called a lift.

Thinking suspension geometry will be fine is one thing and knowing it will be fine is something completely different. Being wrong can cause nasty side effects, even at 1".

Have you thought about shock travel or lack-thereof? If not, start.

 

[AzteCypher]

It's nice to know I'm not the only nut who was thinking about this.

 

[GraySurf]

No. A lift will raise the body which the sway bar is attached to therefor increasing the length of the endlinks. A lift does not lower anything, that's why it's called a lift.

Thinking suspension geometry will be fine is one thing and knowing it will be fine is something completely different. Being wrong can cause nasty side effects, even at 1".

Have you thought about shock travel or lack-thereof? If not, start.

From what i understand from research on the forums for lifted imprezas is that when you lift the car it makes the sway bar pivot from it's mount point making it not effective because it is not at the proper angle. They fix this by using something like a relocation bracket that spaces the sway bar away from the body and back to proper alignment. As far as ride quality and suspension travel it shouldnt be too bad. The spacers would go on the top strut so the suspension would still have the same amount of travel, The ride quality probably wont be the best though. I would guess if i were driving on a trail it would be a rough ride but do are jeeps so who cares. Also (and i know this is completly different because they have subarus with interchangeable parts) Most people who lifted their imprezas more than an inch has to swap in longer rear trailing arms from the Foresters to help center the rear wheels in the wheel well. I dont think i will have that option so I will be limited to around 1 inch, I was hoping for 2-3"

 

[GraySurf]

Also anyone know if 215/65-16 tires will fit on the stock rim without rubbing? i wants me a set of these http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...ewall=Blackwall&partnum=165TR6GRAT2&tab=Sizes

 

[GlowstickNinja]

No. A lift will raise the body which the sway bar is attached to therefor increasing the length of the endlinks. A lift does not lower anything, that's why it's called a lift.

Have you lowered or even worked on the suspension. The end link is attached the strut and when you lower that strut goes further up into the cavity. Making you need a longer end link, because now the strut is effectively further away from the bottom of the car. Lowering the body right? So it would be exactly reverse if you raise the body, the mount for the endlink on the strut will come closer to the bottom of the body, hence a shorter endlink. That is if want your sway bar to even work. It has to be level with the ground when the car is sitting in normal position.

 

[riverzendz]

From what i understand from research on the forums for lifted imprezas is that when you lift the car it makes the sway bar pivot from it's mount point making it not effective because it is not at the proper angle. They fix this by using something like a relocation bracket that spaces the sway bar away from the body and back to proper alignment. As far as ride quality and suspension travel it shouldnt be too bad. The spacers would go on the top strut so the suspension would still have the same amount of travel, The ride quality probably wont be the best though. I would guess if i were driving on a trail it would be a rough ride but do are jeeps so who cares. Also (and i know this is completly different because they have subarus with interchangeable parts) Most people who lifted their imprezas more than an inch has to swap in longer rear trailing arms from the Foresters to help center the rear wheels in the wheel well. I dont think i will have that option so I will be limited to around 1 inch, I was hoping for 2-3"

Yes, that's correct. A spacer would level out the sway bar again. This could be achieved with endlinks as well.

Have you lowered or even worked on the suspension. The end link is attached the strut and when you lower that strut goes further up into the cavity. Making you need a longer end link, because now the strut is effectively further away from the bottom of the car. Lowering the body right? So it would be exactly reverse if you raise the body, the mount for the endlink on the strut will come closer to the bottom of the body, hence a shorter endlink. That is if want your sway bar to even work. It has to be level with the ground when the car is sitting in normal position.

(uhm)(uhm) No lift I have ever installed has required the use of shorter sway links. Lifts increase the distance of, almost, everything. Check your math.