Worked Just Like The Pics
Thought I should drop a line to say that by following the procedure in this thread we had total success with the R&R of both front wheel bearings. My 103K MSP was making the same sound on the driver's side as described by most everyone on this thread. I decided to replace both sides for 3 reasons: 1.) it's just proper mechanical maint. 2.) not having to gear-up to do it again sometime later. 3.) helped me justify the DIY cost of buying a press, since parts were only $40 to do the other side.
I got my press at Harbor Freight Tools. Price = $200, but I had a coupon that got it down to $160. They had 12-ton and 20-ton models, and I'm convinced the 12-ton would have failed since the 20-ton barely came through for me. I was in fear for my life at the point the bearing finally popped loose from the hub. So here's some words of caution/advice: 1.) If you don't get almost immediate movement when you begin to press the bearing off, STOP and forget about using any sort of socket or piece of stock lying around your shop. Go to Auto Zone (or your favorite parts store that loans tools) and borrow a Bearing Press Set. The press set is still not going to immediately budge the bearing, but it will increases the safety of the procedure, ten-fold. 2.) You will also need to obtain a good torch. Oxy-acytelene is ideal, but you may be able to get by with a good quality plumbing torch using a Mapp Gas cylinder. The key is to be able to quickly heat the bearing and begin pressing before the heat spreads to the hub, else both will expand and you won't gain much. 3.) Even with using a 20-ton press, the press kit and an OA torch, I came to a point that I was afraid to give the hydraulic cylinder even one more pump. I feared something was going to explode under the pressure. As I stood there (without having released the pressure) contemplating what to do next, there was a sudden pop that sounded like a rifle shot. It didn't move the bearing much, but I was able to easily press it off after this. When I pressed the passenger bearing off it took little effort, so my assumption is that the longer you go before replacing a noisiy bearing, the tighter it siezes to the hub.
If you have a bearing that is as stubborn as I'm describing, after you get the bearing off you will certainly have the bearing's race left to remove from the hub. For this procedure nothing will work better than a small die grinder or Dremmel tool, using a metal cut-off blade.
Overall, the only other thing that might make this job a little easier would be to get a bigger shade-tree . . . (shady)