Progress update with some pretty pictures.
- Thread starter DuRWooD
- Start date
kboutsider
Member
- :
- 2003 Protege 5
it's always an awesome feeling putting a motor where it doesn't belong. A while back a buddy and I crammed a 3.1L V6 under the hood of a 95 sunfire. Congrats on the swap.
jimmysuite
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
Nice job! looking forward to more pics, video, dyno numbers, drag times....
....and donating your car to me
The car is running much smoother now that the exhaust is hooked up, and I fixed a vacuum leak. I'm driving it to work tonight for the first time as she goes back into DD status as of today.
I think there would be too much cross border taxes and paperwork (ugh)....and donating your car to me
- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
good work...
this is looking good
this is looking good
Yes, both ECUs.. Both wiring harnesses fit through the stock firewall hole. There is room under the glovebox area to zip tie the second ecu in place where you can't see it.
As for wiring, It's not 100% right now (I don't have the factory temp or tach gauges working yet). Other than that, I just tapped all the necessary wires for the KL ECU from various locations (only one so far from the P5 ECU, hopefully another when I figure out the temp gauge).
The spedo and reverse sensors I've just wired up to the factory harness, so they work fine.
Now as for the alternator, I think the P5 one may bolt into place (they look the same) but I used the KL one with the internal regulator, the plug for the alternators are the same, but I didn't connect the factory plug to the new alternator, as I was afraid of blowing the factory PCM. I just ran a fused (30A) wire to the exciter (I think) side, as the P5's works totally different. The charge light is on on the dash however, so that's another thing I need to get figured out.
I ran the oil sensor to stock harness, and it is working fine as well.
I also took out the factory fuel pump relay, and made a little shorting wire to make it run full time when the key is in the on position.
Don't forget to connect the thick blue wire from the disty to +12 (on pos.) as well (it comes out at the ECU, I ran mine to the back of the interior fuse block, and fused it (30A I think, not sure))
I plan on putting up a more detailed write up here in a while when all the kinks are ironed out. I'll include pinouts, and where each necessary wire needs to go (honestly to get it running, it's only about 4 wires to the KL ECU(plus all the sensors and connectors obviously))
I'll answer any specific questions you got, just let me know. Otherwise the write up will arrive within a couple weeks.
Cool and thanks a lot. I will definitely use the writeup unless I brave up and try to do it my own way(and possibly set sail for fail, LOL). It'll be a couple of weeks before I get the KL ready to go in the P5 anyway.
simple fix - 1.5k resistor on the P5 air temp line should make that go away (common problem with aftermarket set ups, as soon as you cut the air temp line the battery light comes on.... by allowing the P5 ecu to read constant resistance, it thinks its still getting a temp reading and everything is ok).
The temp gauge side of things is going to be a little harder - you can't have 2 computers reading off the one temp sensor due to a "sum of resistance" problem. You can isolate both circuits using diodes but you get a voltage drop problem. You can of course use parallel resisters to "reinject" the voltage lost with the diodes, but this introduces bias into the readings. Best bet is to run 2 seperate temp sensors...one for the instrument cluster (P5 ecu) and one for the KLZE ecu.
Exactly why I didn't bother trying to hook it up yet. I'm working on a soloution, thanks for the advice man.
