Hi. I have a parasitic draw of about 1.6A on a 2020 Mazda CX-5. Every couple of days or so the battery needs a jump. I pulled every fuse in the under-the-hood fuse box and found three contributors. F11 (~250ma “Electric Parking Brake – Right”), F28 (~200ma Transaxle Control System (some models), ignition switch”), and F54 (~500ma “Overhead Light”). The parking brake is “OFF” and the overhead lights are “OFF” so…. No easy fixes. No issues with the circuits fused in the box below/left of the steering wheel either. I’m also concerned that these three circuits only account for 60% of the parasitic draw! (250 + 200 + 500) / (1600) = 59%. Any ideas?
Problems with Parasitic Draws (2020 CX-5)
- Thread starter Adam GS
- Start date
My first question is; how long did you wait to start the test, after the engine was shut down, and no doors were opened/closed? Next, how long did you wait, after reinserting the fuses that caused a change in the draw? And the third question is why did you describe F54 as 'overhead light'? On my 2020, F54 is the ROOM fuse, which protects quite a bit more than just the overhead light.
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Great questions, thank you!
1) I waited about an hour after the engine was shut down to start the test.
2) All doors and all auxiliaries (to my knowledge) were OFF at the time.
3) After reinserting fuses, the parasitic draw was essentially instantaneous.
4) "Overhead light" is simply from an on line resource - it may be incorrect.
1) I waited about an hour after the engine was shut down to start the test.
2) All doors and all auxiliaries (to my knowledge) were OFF at the time.
3) After reinserting fuses, the parasitic draw was essentially instantaneous.
4) "Overhead light" is simply from an on line resource - it may be incorrect.
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All of that sounds ok, so I'll ask if you can correlate the start of the battery dying to anything related to the parking brake switch area of the console - liquid spilling, moonroof leak, or being hit with something perhaps?
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- 2014 & 2019 CX-5 Touring(s)
Not sure about the Mazda, but on a different (GM) car I was testing some years ago, as soon as you reconnected anything, the BCM would switch out of "battery save" mode and current would start flowing again. It may be that just reinserting the fuses is triggering that here too.
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That's what I thought was a possibility as well, however the OP replied to my question: 'After reinserting fuses, the parasitic draw was essentially instantaneous'. I took that to mean the reading returned to the exact same one that was on the meter before the fuse was removed. If that's correct, it would mean that no other module 'woke up' when the fuse was reinserted. But the OP can clarify if what I'm thinking is not correct.
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You didn't post an answer to my post #4, so I'm just checking to make sure you didn't miss it.
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Checked the brake switch - that's OK, and there is no moonroof. Never been in an accident - and as far as liquid spilling - anything is possible but there is no evidence of this. Also - I am the second owner and have had the vehicle for about a year.
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Ok, then there's no reason to blame the brake switch. However, I wouldn't eliminate it as a suspect just yet, because it's the only place I can find where something protected by the AT fuse has a potential electrical relationship to EPB-R. Although the big wire bundles coming into the fuse box, along with the box itself is always going to be a candidate for electricity to take a bad path, due to chewed wires, corrosion, moisture, excessive heat, ...
One thing that might help diagnose your vehicle's issue further would be to find out something about where that remaining draw is coming from. So if you're up for more DIY, then you could continue the draw testing by pulling the cabin box fuses, to find out which of them make up the unaccounted-for part of the draw. You should be able to trick the computers into the full 'shutdown' condition by simply flipping the door latch to the closed position, which would allow you to keep the door open to get at the cabin fuse box. If you decide to proceed with that, I recommend first removing the 3 fuses you've already identified, just to make sure everything happens the same way it did previously.
Can you also post a link to the page you found describing the ns-16_23 update? I'd be interested in reading what they have to say about that update fixing a parasitic draw.
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Sure- the reference to the update is about a dozen messages deep on this thread: Reddit - Dive into anything
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I'm also on that Reddit forum, and remember thinking that thread seemed to be wandering all over the place, both in terms of symptoms, solutions, and model year. AFA that ns-16_23 update, I tried some searches but didn't get any hits, aside from that thread. Perhaps your dealer service department has some doc available, describing what it's supposed to be doing.
If this was happening to my vehicle, I'd continue diagnosing on the same path you've currently been on to see if anything else might turn up. But this of course is your vehicle and your choice.
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- W WA
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- 2024 CX-5 Premium
Do you have power rear hatch? I believe there was an issue with that that caused parasitic draw on the battery.
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Yes, the PLG parasitic draw was a well-known issue with the 2020, and eventually resulted in a recall of that part. That particular parasitic draw problem involved the liftgate circuit, and pulling the PLG fuse would terminate that draw. However, I'm not aware of anyone confirming there was or wasn't spillover to other circuits and fuses, in addition to PLG. So it certainly be worthwhile for the OP to pull the PLG fuse in the cabin fuse box, to see what effect that has on this parasitic draw problem.
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My 2019 CX-5 has the same problem. It is drawing 1.8A parasitic. I measured and recorded the 'Room' circuit drawing ~800 mA and 'AT' circuit ~250 mA. Could not pull out the larger fuses to test the remaining circuits. Apparently (from other posts), the lift gate control may be one of the culprits, but I see the problem in multiple circuits. Planning to take to the dealer, but after reading other posts describing their experience with the dealers, I am not too hopeful they can fix it.
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@rpanda subsequently posted additional information and a resolution to the above issue, and it turned out that this one is not the same as the issue posted by the OP. So I deleted the reply that I made here originally, because it might be misleading to anyone reading this thread in the future, who is having a similar problem to the OP. And my follow-up replies to this discussion should also be ignored as well.
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I could not pull out the bigger size fuses (which include the 2 EPB fuses), so did not measure those circuits. My EPB is working properly.
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How about your usage of the EPB - always, sometimes, never?
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