Prince Valorum's 95 626 Build Thread

Bwahaha! Epic pic response, Wes. I don't know why MSP seats are valuable around here? They're just P5/Protege seats with a different cover. No offense, AJ.

Rarity. Especially with the orange stitching like I have. Really the only reason.
 
Meh. Orange stitching.

Mazda B-Spec springs + rare = worth it.

MSP seats + orange stitching = still protege seats

(as I'm sure you'll agree, Phen)
 
Oh, I'm not denying it one bit. Just saying that's the only reason people want them. The only reason I have them is because I got a ridiculous deal, and my lower seat bracket on the drivers side was broken.
 
As well they should. Butt dyno don't lie!

Is that like hips don't lie? (lol2)

The battery needs a reference item next to it, like your keys or something.

Here you go. Photobucket really did a number on the colors, they weren't that bad before compression...

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40lbs battery mount for your 15lbs battery. Over-engineer much? Just kidding, buddy...
 
Don't worry, I'll crash test rate it, just for you. :D

When I have a TIG someday, I'll do one out of aluminum all proper.
 
Plasma cutters sure are fun! There's just something about using 40,000*F worth of plasma to cut steel! I checked out a used unit today, a Miller 375 X-treme, but if this other guy calls me back, I might spring for a Hypertherm PowerMax 45, which would be a lot of overkill, but it's got enough balls to gouge and blow out welds, which would be super baller.

I've been trying to get in touch with the painter to get the ball rolling on the truck again, but not much luck so far.

One of the first fab projects for the Yota will be some box steel rockers. I got the idea from the Jeep forums looking up stuff for my buddy's XJ. It'll look like this, except obviously sealed on the end:

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Whole thread:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/rockers-labor-day-1260797/

I need to make some measurements first, but I'm thinking now 2 x 6 x 3/16 based on the sizes the guys were using for Jeeps.

I want to tie it into the frame, too. The Jeeps are unibody, so they just weld it right on to the frame. I don't want to do that in case for some reason the cab needs to come off in the future. Yes, I know it can be ground off or whatever, but why make things more complicated? I don't want to drill or weld the frame, so I think I'm going to take a leaf out of this guy's book and make some frame "clamps" for the supports. I'll need to pick up a shop press and press brake kit first, though. Always more tools to buy....

Example:

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Whole article:

http://home.comcast.net/~explorer4x4/rock_sliders.htm
 
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Dang it, the Hypertherm got deleted off of Craigslist, so someone must have bought it....

Anyway, worked on the battery bracket a bit tonight. I got the uprights made. It would have been easier to use angle stock...

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I am not a 4x4 expert by any means but.... If you use a box tube rocker on your truck and tie it to the frame you will lose flexibility won't you. Meaning (in my mind) when you cross an obstical at an angle, your tires will have less chance of being on the ground. Does that make sense?
 
I am not a 4x4 expert by any means but.... If you use a box tube rocker on your truck and tie it to the frame you will lose flexibility won't you. Meaning (in my mind) when you cross an obstical at an angle, your tires will have less chance of being on the ground. Does that make sense?

You want your suspension doing the articulation, not your frame! Just like a car. :D The front of the Yota doesn't flex much, as it's independent suspension, and has a sway bar, but the rear flexes decently for stock.

Damn man! Those are gonna be some VERY durable steps! They may outlive the truck.

They're not running boards, they're box steel rock sliders. They need to be very beefy, as they're supposed to support the entire weight of the truck if you come down on a rock!



On a very sad note, I noticed the first bit of rust on the 626 showing on the exterior... It's the rear right wheel well, at the back, right where all Mazdas seem to rust. :(
 
Holding the pieces in place so they don't move during the welding process is more than half the battle. I mocked it up a little bit using a wood clamp for corners. I wasn't sure if it would hold the pieces how I'd envisioned, and it didn't, but I managed to get them decent enough. I want to ensure everything's square so that the battery fits neatly inside the cage. If it doesn't, the whole thing is useless.

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