Ported the stock IC....

destrux

Member
:
2007 Mazdaspeed3 GT Black Mica
I don't have the cash for an upgraded TMIC or FMIC, so I decided to mess around with the stock TMIC.

I pulled it off and took the coldpipe off and took a better look at what the air flowing in and out of the IC has to contend with. It didn't look good. You can definitely see where saving production costs meant more than making power. The bosses for the coldpipe bolts stick much farther into the airflow path than they need to. There are also a few places where the metal was cast much thicker than it needed to be, and where rough transitions were chosen over smooth transitions. About an hour with a porting bit and sandpaper roll took care of all of these problems. I took the end tanks off the core so I could do this work without getting metal particles into the IC core where it would be nearly impossible to clean them completely out.

I have pictures of exactly what I did inside the end tanks and cold pipe, but apparently I left my camera at work that has the pictures on it. I'll edit this with pictures as soon as I can. I do have the dyno charts though, I emailed those to myself.

Some people might think this is a waste of time... I don't. I noticed a huge difference in the way the car drives after doing this. It seems to be happier at higher RPM and have a bit more power. The dyno charts seem to back it up. It didn't gain alot of power, but it extended the power curve farther up. The only problem is I don't have a stock IC to do back to back comparison runs with the ported one. I did use the exact same dyno for all of the runs though, my Dynocom DC1800SZ. The first chart is the "before" set of dyno runs I did last fall to compare the effect resetting the ECU has on the power. The blue line is the "normal" power level. Ignore the red line. The second chart is from this past saturday. I did three runs, the black line was the warmup run, the other two are the ones to look at. I'm not sure what's up with the last run (green lines) not having that power dip that all the other runs have. You'll also notice that I did the second set of runs from 3000rpm instead of 2500... I didn't feel stressing the motor at low RPM was necessary. I also had to change the scaling due to the car cresting over 300whp for a bit. I would love to have a stock IC here to do back to back comparison runs... but I don't... so this is the closest I can get. Interesting results for a basically free mod.

I just had a thought... I'm going to see if I can overlay the blue run from the first chart and the green run from the second chart on one chart with the dyno software. I don't know why I didn't think of that earlier. Comparing them would be alot easier without the scaling differences.

ms3ecuresetrun45.jpg


rtams3portedictest.jpg


Look below for more pics... it cut them off here.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, OP. Those of us with a few shop tools and a little time can really benefit from your work.

Hell, some of those who spent money on fancy and bigger aftermarket IC's might find that what they spent money for might be just as rough and ragged on the passages to and away from the core and might benefit from some air path smoothing too! Good job.
 
that's pretty good.
I might try to do this as i can't afford anything right now lol

thanks for the info
 
wow, that's amazing. please post some pics. maybe I can do the same thing with my su ic?!?
 
It won't let me post all my pics for some reason... not sure why. Is there a pic limit? These are all 800x600 about 60k images.... it only lets me post one then it cuts the rest off.

If I can't post them here I'll put them up on my website and link to them there.
 
It won't let me post all my pics for some reason... not sure why. Is there a pic limit? These are all 800x600 about 60k images.... it only lets me post one then it cuts the rest off.

If I can't post them here I'll put them up on my website and link to them there.

pics or link yet?
 
Link.... Ported IC pics

I figured out why my pics wouldn't show up earlier too. One of my cameras saves the files as .JPG and the other saves them as .jpg. Apparently this makes a difference when you're linking to a file. I wish files were like dogs and came to anything you called them, as long as you're enthusiastic about it. It would make everything alot easier.
 
Porting aluminum is a riot, it's so much fun it's easy to zip along too far and hole the other side. Once again, well done.
 
Link.... Ported IC pics

I figured out why my pics wouldn't show up earlier too. One of my cameras saves the files as .JPG and the other saves them as .jpg. Apparently this makes a difference when you're linking to a file. I wish files were like dogs and came to anything you called them, as long as you're enthusiastic about it. It would make everything alot easier.

nicely done man good job..how long did it take you to do it?
 
what other mods do you have because your numbers are pretty much what i wanna get to, and when you say reset the ecu, are you just talking about disconnecting the battery?
 
It should take about 1.5 hours. It took me 3 hours because of taking pictures and being interrupted with other stuff. Plus the whole thing with the porting bits.

That red and blue dyno chart is from the time I tested to see what effect on power resetting the ecu by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds had. The power jumps up, but that's only because the car is running off unadjusted trims, which is not as good for the health of the engine as the learned trims the car has from driving on the road. Resetting your ecu to gain power is not a good idea, or a realistic way to gain power (it doesn't work the same on every car because the conditions are not always the same).

Anyway....

My engine mods are a Mazdaspeed CAI with AEM straightener, custom 2.5" turbo inlet pipe, Ported IC and coldpipe, greddy type-S BOV recirculated, 2.5" test pipe, and a resonator delete. Not much.

I never did a baseline run with the car because I got the dyno after most of the mods were done, and I don't have the stock parts to reinstall to test it anymore.

I don't know how my dyno reads compared to anything else. According to the manufacturer it's supposed to be comparable to dynojet numbers.
 
Last edited:
As someone who spent time...

Porting RD400 cylinders, I have much respect for this

AND you present objective data

I think one must either grab a die grinder, .... or .... press your lips together
 
I like it a lot. What did you use a dremmel or something? I may do this very soon. I have an aftermarket TMIC but air flow is air flow!!
 
It won't let me post all my pics for some reason... not sure why. Is there a pic limit? These are all 800x600 about 60k images.... it only lets me post one then it cuts the rest off.

If I can't post them here I'll put them up on my website and link to them there.

Can you go over how you got the end tanks off without damage?
 
A dremel will be hard pressed to do this. I ported my stock 5.0 lower manifold with one. It still works but, it burned out the speed switch and really isn't the same anymore. Granted...probably alot more work porting that than this, lol, that was a REALLY bad design for flow. Picked up about 20 horse from that, on the same boost pressure.
 
It looks to me like that screw boss is only there to prevent a boost leak via an open threaded hole. I wonder how much flow you could pickup if you could remove it entirely and blend that whole surface with as large a radius as possible? Simply seal the hole with RTV on the threads when reassembling.

They would have been better off adding material to the entire floor of that area instead of a boss for one screw, and casting the whole opening with a nice, large, radius turn out the opening.

From a flow standpoint these parts look so horrible to begin with, you almost can't make them flow worse.

I still have my Makita grinder and a full set of cartridge rolls. Hmmmm.......

Subbd'
 
Back