PolkAudio & Crutchfield fitment guides are incorrect for CX-7

[Byrnie]

As many of you might realize the fitment guide for the CX-7 on Crutchfield and Polk Audios website are both incomplete. Polks only mentions the rear door speakers while Crutchfields mentions every thing but the front door speaker. My question is I have a pair of Polk MOMO 6 1/2 component speakers left over from my last car that I would like to install in the front door. I also have a pair of Polk MOMO 6x9s that I would like to install in the rear doors. Does anyone know if this is possible and if so where would I go for the mounting brackets or how would I go about installing them since the front door is 9" in diameter. Do you know of anyone who has installed 6.5 inch speakers in the front doors? Any information you can give me would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance.

~Byrnie

 

[CXRabbit]

Good luck on your search Byrnie. I'm exploring aftermarket options now and accurate info out there is hard to come by. I've called Crutchfield three times already and so far 2 out of 3 think the head unit I want will fit, while one said it would require heavy-duty modifications (and expense) to work. So far online I've only found one guy who's modified the stock system and willing to share the info. He's on these forums, so maybe he'll answer your question for you

 

[Byrnie]

Good luck on your search Byrnie. I'm exploring aftermarket options now and accurate info out there is hard to come by. I've called Crutchfield three times already and so far 2 out of 3 think the head unit I want will fit, while one said it would require heavy-duty modifications (and expense) to work. So far online I've only found one guy who's modified the stock system and willing to share the info. He's on these forums, so maybe he'll answer your question for you

oh man i just got off the phone with them and i don't know if they're actually gonna fix it but they don't mention what speakers will fit in the front door area. I told them it was missing that and he said he would make a note of it. The car is new so I'm not surprised these things are wrong/incomplete.

What's the guy's username on the forum? or if he is a reading this, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[CXRabbit]

oh man i just got off the phone with them and i don't know if they're actually gonna fix it but they don't mention what speakers will fit in the front door area. I told them it was missing that and he said he would make a note of it. The car is new so I'm not surprised these things are wrong/incomplete.

What's the guy's username on the forum? or if he is a reading this, it would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123643250

 

[07CopperGT]

I made my own adapter plates out of ABS for my JBL Power Series 6.5" Components. I put my tweeters in the dash where the 3.5's were. There's no way you're going to get those 6 x9s in the back doors.

 

[CX7nCali]

The unknown is the actual mounting depth and space behind the door panels. If there's enough space with the windows down, then the options are many.

Point is, take the door panels off and start measuring.

 

[Byrnie]

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123643250

thx cxrabbit

I made my own adapter plates out of ABS for my JBL Power Series 6.5" Components. I put my tweeters in the dash where the 3.5's were. There's no way you're going to get those 6 x9s in the back doors.

Yea I don't care too much about the 6x9s but I do want to get in those 6.5 components.

 

[CX7nCali]

Wait a minute:

Are you going to use these with the Bose system?

If so, forget about it.

The system is specifically designed for efficiency between the amp and speakers. There are crossover points, level adjustments, etc.

If you want to change the speakers, then you'll need to change the whole system. Otherwise, leave it alone.

Not to mention, you'll lose bass output going from efficiently matched 9" woofers to power hungry 6.5" woofers.

07CopperGT, did you have the Bose system or the Base system? And, did you change anything else, like the HU and/or amp?

 

[07CopperGT]

Wait a minute:

Are you going to use these with the Bose system?

If so, forget about it.

The system is specifically designed for efficiency between the amp and speakers. There are crossover points, level adjustments, etc.

If you want to change the speakers, then you'll need to change the whole system. Otherwise, leave it alone.

Not to mention, you'll lose bass output going from efficiently matched 9" woofers to power hungry 6.5" woofers.

07CopperGT, did you have the Bose system or the Base system? And, did you change anything else, like the HU and/or amp?

I had the Bose system, which I completely removed and started over. The factory amp has the crossover network built in. The dash speakers only get high frequencies and the 9" woofers in the front doors only get low frequencies. They are the only speakers in the car that get lows, and they still don't produce very much bass. The rear door speakers only get mid and high frequencies. There are also 3.5" tweeters in the rear panels which I just disconnected and didn't worry about replacing since I put new subs in the rear. I made my own dash kit for the time being until someone makes a kit for the car. I made some custom brackets to hold the 1" tweeters in the factory 3.5" holes in the dash. Since all the wires go to the back at the Bose amp and they're actually 16 gauge I placed the crossovers for the components in the rear beside the Bose amp. The 6.5's that I used to replace the 9" subs deliver just as much bass as the factory subs. I installed a JBL GTO75.4 amp on the front Power Series 6.5" components and also the GTO 6X8's in the rear doors. I also installed a GTO1201.1 amp on a pair of Power Series 12's in a transmission line box in the rear with a secondary battery by Stinger along with a 12 farad capacitor also by Stinger. Needless to say the sound that the Bose delivered dims in comparison to what I have now. I do have to confess that I own a car stereo store.

 

[CX7nCali]

Haha, I thought so. You either use the Bose system or replace it altogether.
That setup should sound pretty good.

Since there are 9" woofers already in place, that leads me to push woofers larger than 6.5" to increase up-front midbass.

As for the dash openings and replacing the Bose system:

If you don't want to use a 3-way front, then you can probably fit many large format tweeters up there that play lower frequencies than typical small format car tweeters to raise the soundstage.

Large format tweeters:
http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash

Seas tweeter TBFC/G $32 each
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=7818521.9143&pid=1005
with
Dayton Reference 8" woofer RS225-4 for $43 each
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-376

$150 for a killer front 2-way speaker setup that will sound better than many overpriced car audio component sets.

Or you can go with the higher priced Morel Supremo SW 9" woofer and Supremo or Supremo Piccolo tweeter. http://www.morelhifi.com/products/mob_components_woofers_supremo.html and http://www.morelhifi.com/products/mob_components_tweeters_supremo.html

You'd want to drive them actively with a 4ch amp and a HU with built-in DSP crossovers like an Alpine CDA-9835, Eclipse CD8455, or Pioneer P880PRS. You can hook up an iPod to any of them via Aux input. They all have the upper line DACs, 6ch DSP for crossovers, EQ, time alignment, etc.

The Bose rear door speakers ran off the HU power for rear fill.
The rear d-pillars left alone.

Hmm, let's see if I can build a lower budget rockin' active system with sub:

Pioneer DEH-P880PRS $325 shipped
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16945

Seas tweeter TBFC/G in the dash $32 each
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=7818521.9143&pid=1005

Dayton Reference 8" woofer RS225-4 for $43 each
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-376

Elemental Designs 12" sub 13Kv.2 dual 2 ohm for 4 ohm load at $125
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=31

or one of the hard to find Image Dynamics IDQ12v2d2 subs on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/Image-Dynamics-...ryZ18803QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Alpine MRV-F345 at $279 shipped for tweeters 75w and sub 300w
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14928

Elemental Designs Nine.2x at $265 for midbass 200w x 2ch at 4 ohms
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14928

I'm pretty sure both of those amps will fit in the open space.

Sound Dampening ~$150
http://www.raamaudio.com

Wire, Cables, connectors, etc. from:
http://www.knukonceptz.com
and
http://www.partsexpress.com

One kickin' SQ system within $1500

 

[CXRabbit]

Personally, I think if you're replacing the whole system you should spend the extra money and go with a double din unit... it will just look nicer. The area where the stereo sits is BIG.

Talking to the audio pro today he was confident he could do a double din setup that would look and sound nice BUT the LED readings up on the top of the dash will cease to work. There will be a kit available eventually, but there isn't one yet. Also, all the dash work will need to be custom, including the brackets to hold any unit in place, because there are no kits available yet... audio guy says he expects them around February.

I was all set to get the car with the stock radio and do custom, but I ended up changing my mind. I can't do a custom install myself where decent dash modification needs to be done. I don't want things in the car to stop functioning. I wouldn't do it unless I'm committed to doing a DD head unit, and in that case it becomes a car thief's dream... and that scares me. I'd also have to be committed to building or having built a custom anti-theft cover.

Personally, you might want to keep the stock radio and go with one of those systems that lets you build off the factory system. There seems to be quite a few available. I don't know much about them (only started researching recently) but there seems to be quite a few manufacturers making them... Alpine, Kenwood, 3Sixty. I've been asking questions over in a car audio forum and at least one guy pointed me at the 3Sixty.

I ended up going with the tech package and am hoping for a solution like this down the road -- one that will allow better iPod integration without using a FM transmitter.

Good luck to ya!

 

[Byrnie]

one word....CRAP. Ok well now I'm selling my Polk; MOMO 6.5 components, MOMO 6x9s, and MOMO 4 channel amp. Any takers?

 

[07CopperGT]

one word....CRAP. Ok well now I'm selling my Polk; MOMO 6.5 components, MOMO 6x9s, and MOMO 4 channel amp. Any takers?

The preamp signal going to the Bose amp is pretty much useless. It's to weak for a line out converter to read and it is only left/right, there are not seperate outputs for front and rear going into the Bose amp. Bose has really put a hamper on integration in this car. The only thing you can easily add is a subwoofer amp because the front door speakers get a low pass signal.

 

[PuroMexicano]

The preamp signal going to the Bose amp is pretty much useless. It's to weak for a line out converter to read and it is only left/right, there are not seperate outputs for front and rear going into the Bose amp. Bose has really put a hamper on integration in this car. The only thing you can easily add is a subwoofer amp because the front door speakers get a low pass signal.

Let me get this straight, you're saying that the output from the HU is pretty much useless to install an aftermarket amp and speakers and get a decent SQ system overall?

Is this for the BOSE system only or for the basic system too?

If that's for the basic system too, basically, I'm screwed. In Mexico you CAN'T get the BOSE system, only the basic, and I wanted to add a 4ch amp and better door speakers/subs. (pissed)

 

[CX7_Scott]

why would the HU output be an under-powered signal...? I though it was all line-level before the amp(s)... ??? It would make no sense to attenuate a signal then raise the noise-floor by boosting it unnecessarily. Am I wrong?

 

[CX7nCali]

Yo Mexicano, you should be ok using a LOC with the base system.

Re: Bose, I assume Copper tested the pre-amp signal, and remember it's an integrated system from HU to amp to speakers.

Scott, I agree, the stronger the pre-amp signal, the lower the noise floor. But the Bose amp is low wattage, so the pre-amp signal is probably high enough to match and maintain a decent noise floor. Bottom line from a profit perspective: the best possible sound with the least amount of money. That's Bose. For most people, it's plenty. For those of us with good ears, it's in the middle.

 

[cx-7heaven]

Ok, heres what you do signal and amp wise: buy a rockford fosgate 360.2 or an audiocontrol dqxs. Either one of these units will turn the SPEAKER signal coming from your amp/headunit into a usable preamp signal. Either of these units can take a couple hundred watts of input from the stock system. They also have crossovers, subouts, etc etc. They will also work with the bose system. As far as the door speakers go: The stock system uses 5x7's all around. The bose uses 9" woofers in the doors, and smaller speaks in the dash. The enclosure for the door speakers is a "blister" coming off of the steel. You can make a baffle plate like I did to fit any speaker you want in there. I have done some upgrading, I now have Alpine spx-177r 6.5's in the doors, with the tweets cut in the panel about 3 1/2 inches in front of the door handle. You can purchase the signal processors from ebay or from a local shop. If you don't have any clue about processing, eq, crossover etc. then I would recommend a local shop, because they will tune it for you. Go to rockfordfosgate.com or audiocontrol.com and click on oem integration, they will point you in the right direction. Also car audio magazine just did a test report of the rockford unit, and it did very well; go to caraudiomag.com and click on test reports. Good luck

 

[PuroMexicano]

thanks CX7nCali and cx-7heaven!!

 

[cx-7heaven]

NP vato!!

 

[CX7nCali]

simple LOC approach:
http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm