Passenger Side Motor Mount, BLOCK side broken

N

nogirlsatgt

Recently had the alternator belt fail and just got around to investigating the cause and fixing it. I noticed that the passenger side motor mount was looking really bad, and that one of the male "studs" coming from the engine block had actually snapped off. The broken stud is the one that normally has a ground wire attached to it. The ground wire let the broken part of the stud dangle against the belts until it failed.

So. Big problem. Is the stud on the block side of the motor mount replaceable? Is the entire block side mount replaceable or is it integral with the block?
 
So looking at this diagram it appears that the engine side bracket (39-030B) bolts onto the block, and that the studs (2X, 39-032) are removable/replaceable. Does anyone know what needs to be removed in order to access the 3 bolts (99784-1030) that secure the bracket to the block? Are they underneath the timing cover?

2B56661.jpg
 
You need to take the motor mount off first. Then remove the bracket. You will need to support the engine from the top (preferred) or the bottom. Swap out the bracket and that is all.

You may need a good breaker bar to get the nuts and bolts off.

I think I have a bracket around here if you decide to go this route.
 
I just went out to look at my car and it does appear that the timing belt covers need to come off to get to the three bolts. That would mean removing a lot of stuff. I did my own T-Belt job but don't remember the bracket's attachment.

What about just pounding out the bolt in the bracket. It's probably just a splined bolt like our lug bolts on our wheel hubs. It should just push straight down and be easily accessed. A replacement off a junker would probably be a buck or two.
 
pcb said:
I just went out to look at my car and it does appear that the timing belt covers need to come off to get to the three bolts. That would mean removing a lot of stuff. I did my own T-Belt job but don't remember the bracket's attachment.

What about just pounding out the bolt in the bracket. It's probably just a splined bolt like our lug bolts on our wheel hubs. It should just push straight down and be easily accessed. A replacement off a junker would probably be a buck or two.
Click to expand...

Yeah it's tough to tell in the parts diagrams how the studs are attached to the bracket. The parts diagram makes it look like they come out from the topside of the bracket, meaning they'd be threaded. But being splined/pressed makes more sense so that it wouldn't be loosing up as you try and break the nuts free. If I could replace a stud without removing the bracket (and everything needed to access it) that would be a best case outcome.

thuzil said:
I think I have a bracket around here if you decide to go this route.
Click to expand...
PM'd
 
If you get thuzil's bracket or go to a wrecking yard, you could try to pound/press out a stud. I'm thinking it's pressed in from underneath and they just show it above the bracket for visual clarity.

If you go to a junker with a wrench and hammer you can back the nut off to the top of the threads and pound on it to see what happens. If you break something, nobody needs to know and you'll know if you can remove your broken stud without breaking anything.

Maybe thuzil can check his bracket to verify if it's splined/pressed in.

Removing everything from your car seems like a huge PITA for a simple stud. (unless you need to do a T-Belt job anyway)
 
The bracket isn't easy to come off...
1. the timing belt cover is in the way.. need to remove main crank pully to get the cover off
2. the waterpump pully is also in the way

I had a stripped stud and it was very very very hard to get out... but not impossible... i used a pipe wrench... both studs are threaded in... if you can get a pipe wrench on the broken stud then remove and replace... the bracket itself is hard work to get off

I also have a spare bracket but it's missing a stud because i used it to replace my broken one
 
thuzil said:
You need to take the motor mount off first. Then remove the bracket. You will need to support the engine from the top (preferred) or the bottom. Swap out the bracket and that is all.

You may need a good breaker bar to get the nuts and bolts off.

I think I have a bracket around here if you decide to go this route.
Click to expand...
u do Not need to take the motor out to get to that bracket.. u just have to jack it up on that side. use a 2x4 on a jack under the oil pan and jack it up.. it will slant far enough to take the timing cover off and expose the bolts for the bracket and u cn remove them. then u can replace the bracket cuz the studs are screwed in not pressed in and drilling it out would be a p.i.t.a. its easier to go to a junker n get the bracket
 
Yes. I can verify that the studs are threaded on both ends. You will need a new bracket if you have sheared one off. Unless you want to spend an afternoon drilling and tapping.
 
Is there enough thread on the end sticking out (on the bottom side) to try to back it out with a pair of vice grips? Once it was started you might be able to get enough out the other end to grab it from the top and turn it with pliers.
 
There is a portion still sticking out of the bracket. Not sure if the studs thread in from the top side or bottom side.

Seems like the studs could just back of the bracket as you tried to break the nuts loose during a routine motor mount swap. I guess it depends on which one is tighter and rustier. That's why I was assuming they were pressed in.
 
While it is possible, do not support your engine under the oil pan. Better to support it from the top.

For the sake of 3 bolts remove the mount first. You will also have to remove the crank pulley to get the timing cover off. You may be able to swing the cover out of the way though.
 
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