Oil Filters

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Mazda 2 Touring 2011
What are your thoughts on oil filter brands? I am currently using ACDelco filters as they are what we use at my workplace. Are the Mazda filters a better choice?
 
I remember reading a while back that the Mazda filters (both air and oil) have tested quite favorably, so that's what I've been sticking with. I've sent a few used oil samples off for analysis over the years and they've always come back positive, with notes that the filter is performing well.
 
Most filters are perfectly adequate. Get one with a silicone anti-drainback valve and you should be good. I like the Purolator PureOne filters. The texture is nice for gripping it as well :)

As for air filters OEM Mazda is great. I don't see many 2s at work but all the cars that take the same plushy type air filters I've seen many times over that aftermarket filters seem to not be made quite right... either a little too wide or too narrow or weaker materials along the edges(so months later when you check it you find it's somewhat worn away on the edge where it can suck particulate and doo doo sand through the engine. Toyotas are somewhat bad about this in my experience. Oddly enough the two parts places I priced an air filter out at, were more expensive than OEM so there was no reason for me to do otherwise.
 
WIX has been in all my Mazdas since Day1.

Not all oil filters are the same..not by a longshot. This is pretty enlightening:
http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html


Holy cow that's a great link. I haven't seen any oil filter comparisons that had controlled conditions like that before, thanks for sharing!

The only problem I see is they don't test how much crud they will filter out before they clog up and go into by-pass mode(which would then filter nothing at all). If you're filtering out every single little .0000001" particle, it will clog up sooner as you have a fixed amount of space to take up inside an OEM size filter housing. This really won't matter unless you're trying to go for extended oil change intervals(like 10k+ maybe?). Not sure. Send off for a used oil analysis to know for sure. I'm planning on sending mine off at the next oil change probably in a couple months just to make sure nothing is wrong with my Pureone filter + 0w20 Pennzoil Platinum. If there are no red flags I'll just keep using it.

I still personally think if you're changing your oil/filter every 3k(regular) or 5k(synthetic) then you'll never notice a difference in engine life/problems/etc to be able to say a "poor quality" filter truly caused said problem. I'd bet money you could run one of the lower scoring filters in that test(ACDelco for example) and send oil off for an analysis and they'd tell you it's fine. I don't know about that Shell filter though... I had no idea you could even buy a filter with no ADBV!(boom03)

I -believe- I've heard that the higher end WIX and Purolator PureOne filters are essentially the same construction.


Arguing over oil filters(as long as you're getting a decently known name brand) is silly. There are thousands of Jeeps with 4.0L motors that had gone 200k+ miles on bad old dinosaur oil and oil filters designed in the 80s.


While we're on the topic of oil/filters/whatever... here's a really interesting link I was reading the other day regarding oil additives. Basically they're all garbage and will do more harm than good.

http://www.fitzhughmedia.com/MBF/snakeoil.html
 
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I use a k&n wrench off. Bit expensive but with a skid plate it is the easiest way to get the filter off.
 
Holy cow that's a great link. I haven't seen any oil filter comparisons that had controlled conditions like that before, thanks for sharing!

The only problem I see is they don't test how much crud they will filter out before they clog up and go into by-pass mode(which would then filter nothing at all). If you're filtering out every single little .0000001" particle, it will clog up sooner as you have a fixed amount of space to take up inside an OEM size filter housing. This really won't matter unless you're trying to go for extended oil change intervals(like 10k+ maybe?). Not sure. Send off for a used oil analysis to know for sure. I'm planning on sending mine off at the next oil change probably in a couple months just to make sure nothing is wrong with my Pureone filter + 0w20 Pennzoil Platinum. If there are no red flags I'll just keep using it.

I just got a kit from Blackstone Laboratories in the mail for my next oil change. I'll see how the Mobil1 0w20 is holding up
 
I use either Wix (expensive as ****) or the Purolator filter that they sell at walmart, I belive it used to be the Supertech brand. Is the purolator at walmart the same as the pureone? I never actually paid attention. Anyways, I change out my oil/filter every 5k miles and so far so good. I don't think you really need to over think the filter. Just use one made by a reputable brand and at proper intervals and you should be fine.

Question though, do you guys change your oil at 5k or 7,500? Im wanting to extend out to 7,500 to save a little money in the long term, but not at the expense of shorter engine life. I believe the filter will probably go bad before the oil. I of course use mobil1 0w20.

There is a standard Purolator filter which is white and cheaper construction, the Purolator PureOne line is their premium filter. Its also yellow with a trippy sandpaper-like texture. I get mine from Advance Auto Parts.
 
I change my oil around 5k miles. Sometimes a bit longer but the oil still looks great and could last much longer. I use castrol full synthetic 5w-20 and it holds strong with my car. Only costs me 25$ an oil change and every 5th one costs as much as a filter because we only need 4 quarts lol.
 
So what is the purpose of an anti bypass valve?


The anti-drainback valve in the filter keeps the filter "primed" so it doesn't all drain right back into the pan. Ever get a loud ticking/knocking almost sound on cold startup with any cars that lasts about 2-3 seconds then goes away completely? This is caused by a bad anti-drainback valve.


The bypass valve is used if the filter gets clogged, full flow unfiltered oil is better than no/insufficient flow.
 
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I can't say I've ever had the oil drain back out of the filter and into the pan. When I do oil changes, the old filter is full when I spin it off.
 
THe OEM filters ae currently used on the SpeedSource P2 cars, and they were used on the GX Diesel 6's when they ran them. If the fiters can meet the demands of Mazda race engines, I do not see why anyone would spend money on more expensive filters. We run the OEM Filters on all four of our Mazda's.
 
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