Oil change
- Thread starter onedog
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Turbo Matty P
Banned
I swear by Royal Purple 5w-30. Also, I change my oil at 4-5K miles and the RP looks great at those intervals. I could probably go longer. Also, RP is a 100% synthetic oil. No dinosaur or fossils in this stuff.
Learned along time ago that synthetic, no matter what the brand, is head and shoulders above regular petroleum products. Had 2 camaros one with a blower with over 200000 miles and never had an engine problem. Never had an engine problem with any car I ran with synthetic.Replica said:
why r u changing yer oil at 1K...u have like 2k left before a scheduled oil change...and the royal purple is cool and all but it a real waste of money... Mobil 1 synthetic is the best IMHO....something like a 10w 30 because its spring and all
Always changed my oil in a new car after 1000 miles. I buy Mobil1 at Wal-mart for 3.74, don't know what Royal purple costs,but put Redline in the Corvette once because they said it will lower the temp but it didn't so I switched back to Mobil. The Redline was 7.95 I think.AZDriftR said:
Turbo Matty P
Banned
I love all the opinions form the "experts" here.
I use 5w-30 because it's the lowest weight oil I can get away with in my motor. Engines are built to certain tolerances and clearances. I want to run the thinnest oil possible that will not cause leaks or oil pressure problems. For me that is 5-30....now I have to decide do I want dino-oil or synthetic? Well for someone who drives their car hard (like me) synthetic is a safer choice. It cools better, has a much higher flash point and when it flashes it turns to ash. Once the ash comes into contact with fresh oil it immediatly turns back into oil. Can't do that with dino-oil. So now I've decided the weight and type of oil. I have to chose the brand. I chose Royal Purple, because I've researched them and used them before. RP is 100% man made and contains a special friction and heat reducer to help pull the heat away from the motor. Anytime you pull heat and friciton from a motor you help it. Also, RP has a HP guarantee. I worked out their formula and for a MSP using RP should yield 7hp. On a P5 or similar protege it should yield 4hp. Also with RP I'm able to extend my service intervals. Regular oil should be changed at 3K or sooner, synthetic is 5K or sooner, RP is 6K or later. Since I'm not broke and I value the performance and longevity of my vehicular investment I don't mind spending a little more on something that is so crucial to it's operation.
Mobil1 is good oil also, just not my favorite.
I use 5w-30 because it's the lowest weight oil I can get away with in my motor. Engines are built to certain tolerances and clearances. I want to run the thinnest oil possible that will not cause leaks or oil pressure problems. For me that is 5-30....now I have to decide do I want dino-oil or synthetic? Well for someone who drives their car hard (like me) synthetic is a safer choice. It cools better, has a much higher flash point and when it flashes it turns to ash. Once the ash comes into contact with fresh oil it immediatly turns back into oil. Can't do that with dino-oil. So now I've decided the weight and type of oil. I have to chose the brand. I chose Royal Purple, because I've researched them and used them before. RP is 100% man made and contains a special friction and heat reducer to help pull the heat away from the motor. Anytime you pull heat and friciton from a motor you help it. Also, RP has a HP guarantee. I worked out their formula and for a MSP using RP should yield 7hp. On a P5 or similar protege it should yield 4hp. Also with RP I'm able to extend my service intervals. Regular oil should be changed at 3K or sooner, synthetic is 5K or sooner, RP is 6K or later. Since I'm not broke and I value the performance and longevity of my vehicular investment I don't mind spending a little more on something that is so crucial to it's operation.
Mobil1 is good oil also, just not my favorite.
- :
- 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon, 2000 Miata
been using mobil1 5w30 since i've had my car. haven't really tried anything else cuz i get a good deal on mobil1 from my mechanic. however, i will read up on that royal purple stuff.
i pulled this from www.Mobil1.com
i pulled this from www.Mobil1.com
- Mobil 1 with SuperSyn 10W-30
Higher-Mileage Vehicle Formula
- Mobil 1 with SuperSyn 5W-30
Newer Vehicle Formula
- Mobil 1 with SuperSyn 15W-50
Performance Driving Formula
- Mobil 1 with SuperSyn 0W-30
Enhanced Fuel Economy Formula
- Mobil 1 with SuperSyn 0W-40
European Car Formula
Turbo Matty P
Banned
I don't have a before dyno, but I have an after on my MSP. I put down more power at the wheels than mazda claimed on the motor...this was with just a cone filter on the MAF, my catless downpipe and the oil. Either my downpipe created 20+whp or the oil helped a little.
p.s. there was no difference in power between the cone filter and stock airbox...just noise.
p.p.s. I live in Alabama...I can get away with 5w-30 in every vehicle I own YEAR ROUND. Like choipstick hero pointed out 5-30 is for NEWER CARS.
p.p.p.s. I'm sorry I assumed I was more qualified to answer this. I guess my 3 ASE certifications, valvoline oil tech certification and mitsubishi tech training aren't enough to deliver a "professional" opinion on here.
p.s. there was no difference in power between the cone filter and stock airbox...just noise.
p.p.s. I live in Alabama...I can get away with 5w-30 in every vehicle I own YEAR ROUND. Like choipstick hero pointed out 5-30 is for NEWER CARS.
p.p.p.s. I'm sorry I assumed I was more qualified to answer this. I guess my 3 ASE certifications, valvoline oil tech certification and mitsubishi tech training aren't enough to deliver a "professional" opinion on here.
andyfatsax
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed3
Lol
Turbo Matty P
Banned
yeah I guess you can't use every other MSP's stock dyno....we know how different they all are....
FWIW, this summer I'm re-enrolling into VC's "Hot Rod U" and "Tuner" programs. VC is now owned and run by the president of Wyotech.
FWIW, this summer I'm re-enrolling into VC's "Hot Rod U" and "Tuner" programs. VC is now owned and run by the president of Wyotech.
Thanks for the name drop.Turbo Matty P said:yeah I guess you can't use every other MSP's stock dyno....we know how different they all are....
FWIW, this summer I'm re-enrolling into VC's "Hot Rod U" and "Tuner" programs. VC is now owned and run by the president of Wyotech.
Watch me dance with apathy (mj)
Mobil1 10w30 year round in Ohio. No problems.
What most don't realize is that Royal Purple, Redline, and even Amisoil ALL outsource some of the manufacturing process. Mobil1, however, does not. They are a big enough company they can do it all in house. What does that mean? They can be as strict as they want about certain tolerances and quality control. Personally, that gives me a little more piece of mind.
Synthetic vs. Regular? Thats a huge discussion that has been beat to death. I will say that if you use regular oil make sure you change it every 3000 miles,on the dot if not before. If your car has some sort of forced induction that requires an OIL COOLING device ALWAYS run synthetic.
My .02.
What most don't realize is that Royal Purple, Redline, and even Amisoil ALL outsource some of the manufacturing process. Mobil1, however, does not. They are a big enough company they can do it all in house. What does that mean? They can be as strict as they want about certain tolerances and quality control. Personally, that gives me a little more piece of mind.
Synthetic vs. Regular? Thats a huge discussion that has been beat to death. I will say that if you use regular oil make sure you change it every 3000 miles,on the dot if not before. If your car has some sort of forced induction that requires an OIL COOLING device ALWAYS run synthetic.
My .02.
Used Mobile 1 in my demised 91 CRX from 20K to about 100k. I then started using the cheapest oil I can find in Target and the cheapest filter I can find in any auto parts store. I replaced the engine at 245k because it was buring a qt of oil every 2k. Always changed my oil between 5K and 8k miles depending how much city driving I did. Tried several oil additiives without any engine damage as claimed by many who never tried them. I drove my CRX like I was in a slolem race with the AC on most of the time with about 300 lbs of copier parts in the back.
I change my oil at about 6k with the cheapest 10w30 I can find for my P5. Hope I can get 250k from my P5's engine also.
I change my oil at about 6k with the cheapest 10w30 I can find for my P5. Hope I can get 250k from my P5's engine also.
