OE Strut Mount and Bearing

[Silentnoise713]

Whelp, this doesn't look right. Now I know where the phantom knocking sound was coming from!? It's been loose and knocking for a while but I didn't 'see' any issues with the strut mount and thought it was the FSB bushing. The rubber failed due to hard-knocking/damping from suspension impacts that ultimately fatigued the rubber and metal gasket to separate... I vividly recall a few HARD impacts over the years, a few instances where I swear the car was going to break apart

Ouch, a wasted Bilstein B4 (piston top is not suppose to be rounded). I wonder if it's worth getting the piston rebuilt (prob not due to S/H).

Shopped around and decided to try the Beck&Arnley kit (Rockauto), comes complete. Nice that the top hat has the L vs R dimple for alignment, which the really cheap generic ones don't have. Ultimately the quality of the rubber is what matters, which only time will tell. FWIW, B&A is not mfg but distributor. The bump stop and accordion boot feel nice, HOWEVER, the strut bearing is garbage. It grinds when you spin in, it is NOT smooth at all!

OE Top mount is done but the bearings is good, just dirty. BTW, OE bearings are stamped SKF, one of the best OEMs out there, which explains why OEM cost so much.

Brake cleaner and old toothbrush make quick work of the dirt around the housing, race, and cage. Put balls back in, regrease, close it up, and it spins freely and quietly, like it is gliding. Night and day diff compare to whoever mfg the B&A bearings. Opted to reuse OEM parts except for top hat.

IMHO if you are replacing front struts, you really should consider:
1) replace the strut mount top hat if the car has over 100K or is just old due to age. Time ages rubber more so than mileage and the types of road conditions it has endured impacts too, YMMV. FWIW, 2008 with 143K.
2) rebuild or buy new the OE strut bearing. aftermarket bearings seem to be questionable.

made edits

 

[pkthomas]

I did quick struts. The cost was a few $ more than strut and top mount. Well with the $7 or $8 total extra.

 

[negusm]

Yes, replace the entire strut mount and bearing when replacing the struts.

Don't rebuild the bearing. You're just asking to do the job again.

 

[5MazdaHz]

Whelp, this doesn't look right...


IMHO if you are replacing front struts, you really should consider:
1) replace the strut mount top hat if the car has over 100K or is just old due to age. Time ages rubber more so than mileage and the types of road conditions it has endured impacts too, YMMV. FWIW, 2008 with 143K.
2) rebuild or buy new the OE strut bearing. aftermarket bearings seem to be questionable.

made edits

I like your style. And nice work too. Salvaging factory parts is a great investment. Keep us posted of the bearing holds up.

Great info for everyone here to consider. I've had hit or miss luck with aftermarket parts on the '12 M5. Just avoid anything made by MOOG for suspension or otherwise.

I had my rear upper shock mounts fail last year when the aluminum sheared at the bolt hole, I replaced it with a KYB mount (Part SM5619) and new Monroe OESpectrum shocks (part 5607) from my local Advance AP store. So far it's worked great for the last year.

 

[gasteffens]

I’ll have to jump in here while the topic is fresh and pick your minds!

I’m working on my 2013 Mazda3 and the tops of my struts look to be the same kind.

I decided to purchase KYB strut plus complete units, for brand recognition and easier install. Long story short the RH one creaks like a son of a gun around slow turns, and I have isolated it to the mount. Has anyone run into this?

I am getting the run around from KYB and the Amazon seller. So since it rides awesome other than the blasted mount, I’m considering ordering Mazda OEM mounts and putting them in and being done with it.

Thoughts on the quality of Mazda vs KYB mounts themselves?

Thanks in advance!

 

[negusm]

Get thee the Mazda OEM mounts. They are actually Ford Focus mounts I think (you'll see a Ford stamp on them). They don't creak. I replaced the 2008 Mazda 3 and 2010 Mazda 5 with the same front struts and bought OEM mounts. No creaking on any of the four struts. Reused the springs. Handles same as factory.

 

[gasteffens]

Do you know of part numbers? I was looking at 2012+ Focus mounts for grins and see they look nearly identical but they come with an additional metal bearing/shim. I wonder if that is a benefit to look for those or just get the Mazda packaged ones. I may have to live with the noise for a time while I get all this stuff together. Oof

 

[negusm]

Just get the Mazda ones from Mazda. Go to PARTSOUQ.COM, put in your VIN and find the part in the diagrams. Click on it and copy the part number. You need your vin, or you may get the wrong trim level and wrong part numbers.

I think the 2010 Mazda 5 and 2008 Mazda 3 were similar but different part numbers.

I take the part numbers, find a discount Mazda Parts Dealer online and buy the parts. I give them my vin and they double check for me.

 

[juniorsenior]

I agree with negusm. Get OEM parts for suspension. They last longer and wear better. Unfortunately, you wont be drifting around a racetrack with them.

I actually end up just going to my local dealership, or ordering from one of the mazda parts websites.

 

[gasteffens]

I agree with negusm. Get OEM parts for suspension. They last longer and wear better. Unfortunately, you wont be drifting around a racetrack with them.

I actually end up just going to my local dealership, or ordering from one of the mazda parts websites.

Will do guys, appreciate the input. I’ll remember this for next time...