nu finish car polish

Dim said:
I think I remember reading on one the of the websites that sell detailing products that synthetic waxes (silicone based) last longer than natural waxes, but I might be wrong (stoned)

I wish it did, lol. I use it because it's easier to remove and looks nicer on dark colored cars. Unfortunately it only lasts a few car washes before the water stops beading up on it for me.

Mazdadude - that f'n sucks man
 
The best waxes are a "PURE" carnuba...they don't last long...when you wash use mild soap...Ivory liquid is good...Dawn will pull the wax off. A chamois will pull the wax off too...so a soft towel (micro fiber with no fabric softener in it or a good hotel towel) will dry without pulling the wax off. Clay is not something you use when your finish is not showing signs of problems...and you need to know what you're doing.

Nu Finish is a good product if you don't plan on waxing very often...it has a good life and will not damage any of your painted components. Don't use anything other than an orbital buffer unless you know how to "wheel" or you will burn the paint and damage the surface. There isn't anything in Nu Finish that will hurt anything.

Pure carnuba waxes are the gentlest...but actually only last a few weeks to a month depending on how often you wash and what kind of weather you're seeing...garaged or outside all the time. UV rays breakdown waxes just like everything else they hit...so the sun is you enemy.

After you wax the car you will get the most out of your wax if you soak a towel in ice-cold water (note you don't want ice coming out with the towel or it can damage your cars surface), don't bother wringing the towel out, just make sure it has not ice in it...throw it on the car, move it around getting the cold water on the car...do this in the shade, not the sun...the paint should be cool to the touch. You will help the wax bond to the car better...it will last noticably longer than not doing this...only really necessary to do this with carnuba waxes...as I stated they don't last long enough anyway, so this helps extend time between waxes.

If I am going to wax the car I use a good cleaner to de-bug and de-tar the lower section of the car...and a product like Dawn dishwater soap is a good de-greaser and wax stripper...you don't want to wax over old wax if you can avoid it.

I like products like Diamond Shield...they have a great pre-cleaner, and their waxes are easy to work with. The best wax I have ever used is H&H carnuba...can't find it anywhere...but it was the best when I could. I like waxes that are easy to work with...I don't like waxes that when they dry they are dusty...I hate waxes that build up around emblems, bodywork, etc...I refuse to use them. I have tried most everything out there just to say I have worked with it. Castle also makes some nice products if you can get your hands on them...you have to be pretty picky though as to what you are going to use.

Anyone who runs there car through a carwash shouldn't care what wax they are using...you're doing damage to the cars paint everytime you pass through one...even the "soft touch" car washes. Trust me though, I know in todays busy times it's almost impossible not to run through them...but be prepared for some work in cleaning up the fine damage they do.

Detailing cars is very relaxing...almost zen for me...I love the time to think...and the time to really get to know the car...where it holds water...how long it takes to release it, having to go back and wipe up water run marks after you've already thought she looked perfect...you see every scratch, ding, dent, etc...and you know what's going on with your car...all the time.
 
mroffshore said:
The best waxes are a "PURE" carnuba...they don't last long...when you wash use mild soap...Ivory liquid is good...Dawn will pull the wax off. A chamois will pull the wax off too...so a soft towel (micro fiber with no fabric softener in it or a good hotel towel) will dry without pulling the wax off. Clay is not something you use when your finish is not showing signs of problems...and you need to know what you're doing.

Nu Finish is a good product if you don't plan on waxing very often...it has a good life and will not damage any of your painted components. Don't use anything other than an orbital buffer unless you know how to "wheel" or you will burn the paint and damage the surface. There isn't anything in Nu Finish that will hurt anything.

Pure carnuba waxes are the gentlest...but actually only last a few weeks to a month depending on how often you wash and what kind of weather you're seeing...garaged or outside all the time. UV rays breakdown waxes just like everything else they hit...so the sun is you enemy.

After you wax the car you will get the most out of your wax if you soak a towel in ice-cold water (note you don't want ice coming out with the towel or it can damage your cars surface), don't bother wringing the towel out, just make sure it has not ice in it...throw it on the car, move it around getting the cold water on the car...do this in the shade, not the sun...the paint should be cool to the touch. You will help the wax bond to the car better...it will last noticably longer than not doing this...only really necessary to do this with carnuba waxes...as I stated they don't last long enough anyway, so this helps extend time between waxes.

If I am going to wax the car I use a good cleaner to de-bug and de-tar the lower section of the car...and a product like Dawn dishwater soap is a good de-greaser and wax stripper...you don't want to wax over old wax if you can avoid it.

I like products like Diamond Shield...they have a great pre-cleaner, and their waxes are easy to work with. The best wax I have ever used is H&H carnuba...can't find it anywhere...but it was the best when I could. I like waxes that are easy to work with...I don't like waxes that when they dry they are dusty...I hate waxes that build up around emblems, bodywork, etc...I refuse to use them. I have tried most everything out there just to say I have worked with it. Castle also makes some nice products if you can get your hands on them...you have to be pretty picky though as to what you are going to use.

Anyone who runs there car through a carwash shouldn't care what wax they are using...you're doing damage to the cars paint everytime you pass through one...even the "soft touch" car washes. Trust me though, I know in todays busy times it's almost impossible not to run through them...but be prepared for some work in cleaning up the fine damage they do.

Detailing cars is very relaxing...almost zen for me...I love the time to think...and the time to really get to know the car...where it holds water...how long it takes to release it, having to go back and wipe up water run marks after you've already thought she looked perfect...you see every scratch, ding, dent, etc...and you know what's going on with your car...all the time.

(thumbs) wash your car, use a good sealant, THEN apply carnuba wax. It will give you the perfect shine.

http://www.autogeek.net/carwax.html
 
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i have some wierd marks on my hood...duno if its from engine heat or what but i want to know what i can use to remove the clear coat to attempt to remove the marks...and then apply wax or something
 
-rinse
-wash with dawn
-dry
-clay bar
-wash
-dry
-ZAINO
-ZAINO again
 
clay yes, zaino menzerna and blackfire hell no. hands down the 3 best waxes available. I don't know why you guys are so hung on zaino? overpriced!
 
slo03.5msp said:
clay yes, zaino menzerna and blackfire hell no. hands down the 3 best waxes available. I don't know why you guys are so hung on zaino? overpriced!
what would be a good alternative to zaino that i can buy at a retail store?..i want to clay the whole car and rewax it to remove the fine scratches
 
Ok well I suck at cleaning cars. I was not paying the most attention while waxing the hood today. I had some I guess hard water spots on the hood and waxed over them. Well now its nice and shiney and in there pretty good. Do I have to clay bar it or something to get the water spots out now. I guess I need to get the wax back off now. Figured there are a ton of people subscribed to this thread and its about wax anyway so someone help me out.
 
Craighjr said:
Ok well I suck at cleaning cars. I was not paying the most attention while waxing the hood today. I had some I guess hard water spots on the hood and waxed over them. Well now its nice and shiney and in there pretty good. Do I have to clay bar it or something to get the water spots out now. I guess I need to get the wax back off now. Figured there are a ton of people subscribed to this thread and its about wax anyway so someone help me out.

Like stated before, to get a wax off, just use some liquid dishsoap next wash. Then you can work on the water spots and wax again.

As for the original poster, I've used Nu Finish over the last couple of years. I think its classified as a polish, not a wax. About every six months I'll use it instead of my regular wax, then in about two weeks, put a coat of wax back on (always washing before any app. of course).
 
I use meguiars NXT liquid wax and their speed detailer and I love them.

I made the mistake of washing in the sun and had water spots as well and the wax removed most of it but the speed detailer on a micro fiber towel took them right off. Somne viniger on a towel took the water spots off the glass pretty darn well but I read you can clay bar the glass as well to remove the real stubborn stains.

I use the speed detailer daily and dust the car with the california dust mop then wipe it down with the california micro fiber towel sprayed lightly with the speed detailer. Every day my car looks just detailed but let me tell you it takes some serious OCD to make this a reality day to day, lol.

Meguiars makes some good stuff and its all synthetic so it will bond better then carnuba and in my opinion still shines nearly as much.
 
i saw a commercial about turtle wax ice and im going to buy the liquid clay bar they have and the wax...looks good and i guess turtle wax has a good rep
 
clos561 said:
i saw a commercial about turtle wax ice and im going to buy the liquid clay bar they have and the wax...looks good and i guess turtle wax has a good rep


It doesn't seem to last long though.(yawn) (used that stuff for about 3 years, and now FINALLY swicthed!!)

I use Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant (lasts up to 5-6 months) and then apply Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax (it seems to last 6-9 weeks) but I apply it after every other wash, since it can be layered. And the shine is incredible, beats the Turtlewax 300times!!. (headbang)

http://www.autogeek.net/pisisepawax.html
http://www.autogeek.net/wg5500.html
 
MM3Canuck said:
It doesn't seem to last long though.(yawn) (used that stuff for about 3 years, and now FINALLY swicthed!!)

I use Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant (lasts up to 5-6 months) and then apply Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax (it seems to last 6-9 weeks) but I apply it after every other wash, since it can be layered. And the shine is incredible, beats the Turtlewax 300times!!. (headbang)

http://www.autogeek.net/pisisepawax.html
http://www.autogeek.net/wg5500.html

Wolfgang is good stuff. Pinnacle is good stuff. Autogeek.net is the BOMB. Check out my hood after using the Klasse twins and Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant this weekend.
 

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