- :
- 2003.5 MSP
Exactly what I just went through. VTCS flaps stayed closed, ended up being a faulty check valve.
No power until 5500rpm?
- Thread starter stevew145
- Start date
Exactly what I just went through. VTCS flaps stayed closed, ended up being a faulty check valve.
I cut the connector off one of my sensors, and soldered in a 560k ohm resistor. Awesome power, but it will still throw the code rarely. More power than just having the sensor connected but not connected to the block, and the codes are less frequent. I guess the ecu expects to see a variation in noise from the knock sensor, and a steady input is no good. Normal driving is greatly improved, and quick pulls are awesome! Next step is to run shielded wire from ecu to sensor to eliminate any possibility of interference.
Last edited:
95blkprobe
Member
- :
- 95 Blk Probe/ 02 Blk Mica P5
Ive been having the same problem. When its cool out at night, i can get a few good pulls in, then it will randomly pull timing and give it all back at 5500.
Did you use a crows foot to torque the sensor since you cant get a reg socket on the sensor?
Also, are you saying that we can just wire an inline resistor and it will be fine till the code pops up (approx 60 miles)?
My mods are: AWR front and rear mounts, JDM FP-DE with MSP setup powered by MSP ECU, relocated MAF, ATP WGA, FMIC, stock heat range plugs gapped at .030.
Did you use a crows foot to torque the sensor since you cant get a reg socket on the sensor?
Also, are you saying that we can just wire an inline resistor and it will be fine till the code pops up (approx 60 miles)?
My mods are: AWR front and rear mounts, JDM FP-DE with MSP setup powered by MSP ECU, relocated MAF, ATP WGA, FMIC, stock heat range plugs gapped at .030.
I havnt had a chance to torque the sensor, i think thats going to be a pain. I cut the connector and put in a resistor. It works good, but the code will come up now and then, maybe once every 10 minutes. I can clear it on the fly in seconds so its no big deal.
95blkprobe
Member
- :
- 95 Blk Probe/ 02 Blk Mica P5
lmk how that turns out. i thought about relocating the sensor lower on the block.
would tricking the ecu into thinking the coolant is a lower temp effect the temp gauge in the cluster?
would tricking the ecu into thinking the coolant is a lower temp effect the temp gauge in the cluster?
never mind , just replaced my battery and my alternator is good and the power loss remains. see , i dont get why we should have to mess with that knock sensor. if at one point this car was consistantly fast, then without screwing with the wiring we should be able to get the car back to its original state of consistancy.
also i replaced my ECU as well and problem is still there lol.
also i replaced my ECU as well and problem is still there lol.
something is going on, and I have no idea what it is. I wired a resistor into my coolant temp sensor, at the flick of a switch, my coolant temp "drops" to 55 degrees Celsius, and all power is readily available. Its a bad thing to have to do, and under the hood of my car looks super ghetto until I can clean up the wires or figure something else out, but it works for now.
Yeah, fairly ghetto fix, but glad it works. The problem I see is your fans won't be coming on now like they should. So you could overheat when you come to a stop. I guess you could wire a switch to bypass it to turn the fans on, but that's a new level of ghetto.
My theory remains that you are actually pinging. Maybe you can't hear it, but every knock sensor you've tried can.
It's either that or your 55 is actually less than 39 and you are staying in open loop, but then you'd get a CEL.
Maybe it is time to go to a standalone.
My theory remains that you are actually pinging. Maybe you can't hear it, but every knock sensor you've tried can.
It's either that or your 55 is actually less than 39 and you are staying in open loop, but then you'd get a CEL.
Maybe it is time to go to a standalone.
The temp is 55 degrees as seen on my obd2 scanner. I only switch it on the highway. The switch is down by my handbrake so i can switch it when ever I want.
I may very well be pinging, but I REALLY doubt it. Even with the sensor attached to the firewall its picking up knock and retards timing. I am in closed loop when the switch is flipped, my afr hovers around 14.7 as it should, bouncing back and forth, and dips into the high 10's in boost.
I may very well be pinging, but I REALLY doubt it. Even with the sensor attached to the firewall its picking up knock and retards timing. I am in closed loop when the switch is flipped, my afr hovers around 14.7 as it should, bouncing back and forth, and dips into the high 10's in boost.
Are you looking at timing advance or knock retard with your scanner? I wonder if there is another reason the PCM is pulling timing.
I do not remember if you tried running without the SSAFC completely. Even with the whole table at 0 (or 10, can't remember), I don't think the SSAFC can avoid altering the MAF signal because of the divider.
I do not remember if you tried running without the SSAFC completely. Even with the whole table at 0 (or 10, can't remember), I don't think the SSAFC can avoid altering the MAF signal because of the divider.
Running at all 10's with my setup is impossible. It fuel cuts constantly. It seems to have gotten worse after my wot box install, the wires run basically next to each other. I am thinking its interference in the lines. I am going to try hooking up the knock sensor from ecu to sensor with some shielded wire eventually. I am looking at timing advance, however I feel it is connected to the knock sensor because it fine when the knock sensor is unplugged. Temps are fine, usually in the mid-low 80's.
The ECT is a thermistor, it changes resistance depending on temperature. The resistor acts as a voltage divider. The PCM just supplies a sensor ground on pin 91, and then measures the voltage on pin 38. As the coolant temperature increases the resistance decreases, which reduces the voltage seen on pin 38.
All you have to do is put a resistor in line with pin 38 and you will trick the PCM into seeing a lower temperature. His little device bypasses the resistor when he turns it off and the PCM sees the correct temperature again.
I messed around with this a lot to get my coolant reading correct again when I installed my Megasquirt.
All you have to do is put a resistor in line with pin 38 and you will trick the PCM into seeing a lower temperature. His little device bypasses the resistor when he turns it off and the PCM sees the correct temperature again.
I messed around with this a lot to get my coolant reading correct again when I installed my Megasquirt.
